Another one from Willy's 'Skunkworks'

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Willy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 20, 2012
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Location
Okanagan
Well, I just got my $120 Watt panel ($155) and installed it today. Earlier, I got to thinking about polycrystalline panels and HEAT. I spend a lot of time in Osoyoos and other hot areas during the summer and things can get extremely toasty. That's all fine 'n good.. but not when it comes to solar panels. So, how to keep 'em cool and thus more efficient? Well lazy (and cheap) boy that I am, I had a look at my solar fan unit on the roof. Hmmmm... <br /><br />&nbsp;If you check out my previous posts, you'll see the automatic solar cooling system I've installed. One thing that always bugged me was the vent cover and having to raise/lower it, and all the other attendant hassles. Why not kill 2 birds with one stone?<br /><br />Check out the pics for an eyeful of my super high-tech setup. The front Unisolar (64 Watt amorphous) panel, due to it not tolerating low-slope roof well, is at somewhat of an angle. The polycrystalline panel is attached to it and slopes back (shallowly) and totally covers the roof vent, but still leaves a significant gap for airflow. The roof vent has had the cover taken off and I've fitted some furnace filter material into the top. This serves as high-flo screening and keeps bugs 'n critters out. Since the front is blocked off by the Unisolar panel, no water can blow in while driving in the rain. The shallow slope of the polycrystalline panel allows water w. dust to drain off. During the summer, when I have the vent fan on, it will blow directly onto the underside of the polycrystalline panel, cooling it down. This also forces air to flow across the roof and keeps the interior cooler.<br />&nbsp;<br />&nbsp;Anyway, that's my new 'n dandy high tech (and CHEAP.. never forget that) solution to a couple of problems. It also saves me the price of one of those vent shrouds AND is lower profile.<br />.. Willy.
 
Im installing 690 watts of panels on top of my cargo trailer and mounting then on ladder rack type frame about 4in above the roof so help with cirulation under panels and will also help keep cargo cooler,, Although im alittle worried about the wind getting under the panels so will build a air dam off front edge of front panel but im pulling with a hitop camper van so maybe the air will flow over and around the CT completely
Your idea of fan sounds good,, hope it works for ya
 
&nbsp;2 important reasons for doing it this way were:<br>1) The plastic vent cap was broken and I saved $30 and..<br>2) I've left the vent up too many times and have either had it subsequently rain cat's 'n dogs or have driven off and had a branch break it.. another $30 gone. ..Willy.
 
Good idea. Just in case, Keep a bucket handy. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle">
 
Well, I've had it on all winter with nary a problem. I designed it so that it would be EXTREMELY difficult for water to get in. Another benefit of this setup is that it reduced condensation problems immensely during the damp winter we had. As a 'passive' ventilation system, I didn't have to think about it. ..Willy.
 
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