Airbags or Springs. The van has got to stop twerking!

[eDJ_]

I haven't seen it mentioned,  but there are "helper" coil springs which are simple to install.   BUT......I'd agree with checking out the shocks as their express purpose is to dampen the "twerking".  

JC Whitney used to sell these coil helpers:

These come in various weight grades.  1/2 ton,  3/4 ton, 1 ton etc.
They are simply placed on the axle under the frame and the large U bolts (provided with these kits) are bolted tight to keep them in place.
Then when you hit a bump the coil serves in an auxillary capacity to cushion the bump. (with a good heavy duty shocks to dampen the reflex.

You won't want too stiff of coil helper springs.  They should provide some cushioning when you hit a bump.  If you install too strong of springs
it would be like a hard jolt when you hit a bump. 

I'd still check out the shocks first.   You'd be surprised at what good heavy duty shocks can do for the ride comfort.

 

[highdesertranger]

what the original poster needs to do FIRST is to weigh it one axle at a time. that's why I have not replied since my first post because the OP has not reported back with the weigh numbers. please a seriously overloaded vehicle is not only a hazard to the OP but also others and no shock, helper spring, or air bag is going to fix that. highdesertranger

 

[GrayWhale]

How much more stable would going from stock 15" rims/tires to 16" rims/tires be?

It will cost about $400 extra when I do my next tire change.

 

[highdesertranger]

with 16" wheels you can get load range "E" tires which are much more heavy duty than "C" rated tires which most 15" tires are. but the question is do you need "E" tires? we need more info.
"E" tires are rated for a much higher load.
"E" tires have a much stronger side wall which is what you want for driving off road.
16" wheels have a much larger selection of tires available
highdesertranger

 

[GrayWhale]

with 16" wheels you can get load range "E" tires which are much more heavy duty than "C" rated tires which most 15" tires are.  but the question is do you need "E" tires?  we need more info.
"E" tires are rated for a much higher load.
"E" tires have a much stronger side wall which is what you want for driving off road.
16" wheels have a much larger selection of tires available
highdesertranger

They're XL, does that mean they're better than E ? My van is loaded with stuff and lots of water.

I'm thinking of these (on-off road) HANKOOK DYNAPRO AT-M  

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...autoYear=2000&autoModClar=&vehicleSearch=true

But it will cost $400 for tires only using my current 15" rims  or $800 for new 16" rims + same tires.  Is it worth it?   Mostly for on-road, highways but I wouldn't want to get stuck in the mud somewhere.

 

[highdesertranger]

XL does not mean they are better. those tires have a 2,271lb rating an comparable "E" tire will have over 3,000lb weight rating. highdesertranger

 

[La Tortuga]

what the original poster needs to do FIRST is to weigh it one axle at a time.  that's why I have not replied since my first post because the OP has not reported back with the weigh numbers.  please a seriously overloaded vehicle is not only a hazard to the OP but also others and no shock,  helper spring,  or air bag is going to fix that.  highdesertranger

Sorry, I am only in cell range a couple of days a week.  The bouncing isn't due to weight.  I travel very light and continue to find things I haven't needed for a while.  The bouncing is going up steep hills in first gear driving over Kaiser Pass or when off road.  I miss the stiffer ride of a 3/4 or one ton on rough roads and off road situations.  I am considering some suspension work and have gotten some great advice from the tribe.  Thanks to everyone!

 

[steamjam1]

Sorry, I am only in cell range a couple of days a week.  The bouncing isn't due to weight.  I travel very light and continue to find things I haven't needed for a while.  The bouncing is going up steep hills in first gear driving over Kaiser Pass or when off road.  I miss the stiffer ride of a 3/4 or one ton on rough roads and off road situations.  I am considering some suspension work and have gotten some great advice from the tribe.  Thanks to everyone!

If your not carrying alot of weight, then you probably just need new shocks. I drive a class-B RV based on a 1/2 ton Ford extended. It's a considerable amount of weight for a 1/2 ton. It useto be really terrible to drive even on the smoothest dirt roads ("Twerking" I guess... swaying side to side.) until I:

1) Installed coil over shocks in the rear to add about 1000lbs extra capacity and the best gas shocks I could get for the front. Much cheaper then new leaf springs/add-a-leaf's, and because of the progressive spring rate, the ride stayed the same.. smooth. I think I paid like $75 for a pair. 

 

2) Installed load rated "C" tires. (I have 15x6 wheels on LT235/75/15 tires) Stiffer side walls then SL, or XL tires. The ride harshened up a tad, but nothing to worry about. I can KINDA go off roading with confidence. 

3) Replaced all the suspension bushings.

 

[steamjam1]

They're XL, does that mean they're better than E ?   My van is loaded with stuff and lots of water.

I'm thinking of these (on-off road) HANKOOK DYNAPRO AT-M  

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...autoYear=2000&autoModClar=&vehicleSearch=true

But it will cost $400 for tires only using my current 15" rims  or $800 for new 16" rims + same tires.  Is it worth it?   Mostly for on-road, highways but I wouldn't want to get stuck in the mud somewhere.

XL tires are better then SL, but not as good as E. Its really going to depend on how much weight you carry in your rig. The more weight, the higher rating your going to need. At the same time, if your carrying enough weight to require E rated tires, its a much better idea to up-rate your suspension...

 

[Firtree]

1) Installed coil over shocks in the rear to add about 1000lbs extra capacity and the best gas shocks I could get for the front. Much cheaper then new leaf springs/add-a-leaf's, and because of the progressive spring rate, the ride stayed the same.. smooth. I think I paid like $75 for a pair. 

3) Replaced all the suspension bushings.

Is there a brand or brands you found for the coil over shocks and gas shocks? 

Did you do the suspension bushing at the same time as shocks?

- I have a new to me ‘98 chevy van with 186K, new tires but it still wanders more than my ‘88 van. Les Schwab said the shocks not leaking, alignment good and there was some front end work done before purchase. Like OP trying to tighten things up.

 

[steamjam1]

Is there a brand or brands you found for the coil over shocks and gas shocks? 

Did you do the suspension bushing at the same time as shocks?

- I have a new to me ‘98 chevy van with 186K, new tires but it still wanders more than my ‘88 van. Les Schwab said the shocks not leaking, alignment good and there was some front end work done before purchase. Like OP trying to tighten things up.

I installed Monroe brand gas shocks. I replaced all the bushings at the same time since I was there under the RV as well as wheel bearings and king pins. Then I went straight to the tire shop and had the alignment checked while it got all new tires.
It made a big difference... Now to be honest.. My RV is really top heavy because its a hightop so if you have a low roof van I doubt you'll have to go as far as I did. Even now on rutted dirt roads my RV will sway side to side as if it was a small freighter in rough seas. Its just not nearly as bad as it was before.

 

[ChezCheese:-)]

This is all excellent information to digest. I hope the OP reports back on what fix s/he chooses, costs and how it worked out.

 

[Beeps and eats]

Air bags are best then air adjustable shocks after that bigger shocks with coil overs, like a motorcycle rear shock looks
And of course sway bars help. Let us know how your modifications go.

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

 

[Doubleone]

Springs just hold the van up.  Shocks control the suspension movement.  Changing to stiffer springs on one end of the van changes the roll couple (front to back).  Mid-line shocks will tend to have stiffer dampening than the yellow premium shocks...   I suggest getting stiffer shocks, followed by heavier sway bars, and both stiffer front and rear springs as a last resort.