Just got my first van, here's the specs, any advice?

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katnerd

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So, I found a Dodge Ram 1500 van for a pretty good price and bought it thinking it would be a decent starter vehicle for a "home on wheels".

Basically, I know the mechanicals, I can do a good bit of metal construction and wood construction, but you guys know far, far more about the realities of living in a van than I do. So, What's your opinion on my little Dodge?

I tried to format this so it's easier to read, there's a lot of info...sorry.


 Thanks in advance, guys 'n gals!



Quick Specs

Gas Mileage 15 mpg City/17 mpg Hwy
Engine Gas V6, 3.9L
EPA Class No Data
Style Name 1500 109" WB
Drivetrain Rear Wheel Drive
Passenger Capacity 2
Passenger Doors 3
Body Style Full-size Cargo Van
Transmission 3-speed automatic transmission


Dimensions

Vehicle
Rear Door Type Dual Swing-Out

Weight Information
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating Cap (lbs) 6600
Curb Weight - Front (lbs) 2516
Gross Axle Wt Rating - Front (lbs) 3500
Gross Combined Wt Rating (lbs) 8800
Curb Weight - Rear (lbs) 1657
Gross Axle Wt Rating - Rear (lbs) 3850
Interior Dimensions
Front Hip Room (in) 66.0
Front Leg Room (in) 39.0
Passenger Capacity 2
Front Shoulder Room (in) 68.0
Front Head Room (in) 38.9

Exterior Dimensions
Overhang, Front (in) 38.3
Rear Door Opening Height (in) 48.9
Step Up Height - Side (in) 20.5
Width, Max w/o mirrors (in) 78.8
Ground Clearance, Front (in) 11.2
Side Door Opening Width (in) 49.3
Wheelbase (in) 109.3
Overhang, Rear w/bumper (in) 44.9
Rear Door Opening Width (in) 51.1
Height, Overall (in) 80.1
Ground Clearance, Rear (in) 7.5
Step Up Height - Front (in) NA
Length, Overall w/rear bumper (in) 192.6
Ground to Top of Load Floor (in) 27.9
Side Door Opening Height (in) 55.7

Cargo Area Dimensions
Cargo Box (Area) Height (in) 53.0
Cargo Area Width @ Beltline (in) 73.5
Cargo Area Length @ Floor to Console (in) 124.8
Cargo Volume (ft³) 208.2
Cargo Box Width @ Wheelhousings (in) 50.0
Cargo Area Length @ Floor to Seat 1 (in) 93.1


Fuel Economy

Fuel Tank
Fuel Tank Location NA
Fuel Tank Capacity, Approx (gal) 31.0
Aux Fuel Tank Location NA
Aux Fuel Tank Capacity, Approx (gal) NA

Mileage
EPA Fuel Economy Est - City (MPG) 15
EPA Fuel Economy Est - Hwy (MPG) 17


Performance Specs

Engine
SAE Net Horsepower @ RPM 175 @ 4800
Displacement 3.9L/239
Engine Order Code EHC
SAE Net Torque @ RPM 225 @ 3200
Fuel System MPI
Engine Type Gas V6
Engine Oil Cooler NA

Transmission
Trans Description Cont. Again NA
Fifth Gear Ratio :)1) NA
Trans PTO Access NA
Seventh Gear Ratio :)1) NA
Trans Type 3
Third Gear Ratio :)1) 1.00
Clutch Size (in) NA
Transfer Case Gear Ratio :)1), Low NA
Drivetrain Rear Wheel Drive
First Gear Ratio :)1) 2.74
Sixth Gear Ratio :)1) NA
Transfer Case Model NA
Trans Description Cont. Automatic
Fourth Gear Ratio :)1) NA
Trans Power Take Off NA
Transfer Case Power Take Off NA
Trans Order Code DGG
Second Gear Ratio :)1) 1.54
Reverse Ratio :)1) 2.20
Transfer Case Gear Ratio :)1), High NA

Brakes
Disc - Rear (Yes or ) NA
Brake ABS System (Second Line) NA
Drum - Rear (Yes or ) Yes
Brake Type Power
Front Brake Rotor Diam x Thickness (in) 11.75 x 1.25
Disc - Front (Yes or ) Yes
Rear Drum Diam x Width (in) 11.0 x 2.25
Brake ABS System Rear-Wheel
Rear Brake Rotor Diam x Thickness (in) NA

Steering
Turning Diameter - Wall to Wall (ft) NA
Steering Ratio :)1), At Lock NA
Steering Type Power Rack & Pinion
Turning Diameter - Curb to Curb (ft) 40.5
Steering Ratio :)1), On Center NA

Tires
Rear Tire Size P235/75R15
Revolutions/Mile @ 45 mph - Front NA
Spare Tire Order Code TSC
Rear Tire Capacity (lbs) NA
Front Tire Order Code TSC
Spare Tire Size P235/75R15
Revolutions/Mile @ 45 mph - Rear NA
Front Tire Size P235/75R15
Spare Tire Capacity (lbs) NA
Rear Tire Order Code TSC
Front Tire Capacity (lbs) NA
Revolutions/Mile @ 45 mph - Spare NA

Wheels
Rear Wheel Material Steel
Spare Wheel Size (in) 15 x 6.5
Front Wheel Size (in) 15 x 6.5
Spare Wheel Material Steel
Front Wheel Material Steel
Rear Wheel Size (in) 15 x 6.5

Suspension
Axle Type - Front Independent
Axle Ratio :)1) - Rear 3.55
Spring Capacity - Front (lbs) Computer Selected
Axle Capacity - Rear (lbs) 3850
Stabilizer Bar Diameter - Front (in) NA
Suspension Type - Front Coil
Axle Type - Rear Semi-Floating
Shock Absorber Diameter - Front (mm) 25.4
Spring Capacity - Rear (lbs) 3850
Axle Ratio :)1) - Front NA
Stabilizer Bar Diameter - Rear (in) NA
Suspension Type - Rear Multi-Leaf
Axle Capacity - Front (lbs) 3500
Shock Absorber Diameter - Rear (mm) 25.4


Safety Features

Safety
Air Bag-Frontal-Driver Yes
Air Bag-Frontal-Passenger Yes
Air Bag-Passenger Switch (On/Off) No
Air Bag-Side Body-Front No
Air Bag-Side Body-Rear No
Air Bag-Side Head-Front No
Air Bag-Side Head-Rear No
Brakes-ABS Yes
Child Safety Rear Door Locks No
Daytime Running Lights No
Traction Control No
Night Vision No
Rollover Protection Bars No
Fog Lamps No
Parking Aid No
Tire Pressure Monitor No
Back-Up Camera No
Stability Control No
Other Features Rear wheel anti-lock brake system
Driver & front passenger next generation airbags
Single low-note horn


Other Specs

Cooling System
Total Cooling System Capacity (qts) 10.3

Electrical
Maximum Alternator Capacity (amps) 117
Cold Cranking Amps @ 0° F (Primary) 600
Maximum Alternator Watts 1404
Cold Cranking Amps @ 0° F (2nd) NA

Trailering
Fifth Wheel Hitch - Max Trailer Wt. (lbs) N/A
Wt Distributing Hitch - Max Trailer Wt. (lbs) 6000
Dead Weight Hitch - Max Trailer Wt. (lbs) 2000
Fifth Wheel Hitch - Max Tongue Wt. (lbs) N/A
Wt Distributing Hitch - Max Tongue Wt. (lbs) 800
Dead Weight Hitch - Max Tongue Wt. (lbs) 200
 
Congrats! Looking forward to pictures of your build :)
 
abnorm said:
Year...............Miles............(price) ?

Congrats...............doug

Oh, yah, I guess I shoulda mentioned that, lol!

It's got 148,000 miles and I paid $2000 US for it. Which sounds like more than it's worth, and according to KBB it is. However, I couldn't find any others that had engine, transmission, and differentials that were fully functioning without leaks. This one doesn't leak. Only thing wrong is the AC doesn't work, but I can fix that pretty easily.

Most vehicles of that year and older here in the Mesa, Tempe, Phoenix area were going for around $500 to $1000 more. Also, they all had leaking main-seals, oil pans, an such. On an older vehicle, in my experience, that's a sign of a severe lack of maintenance which always dominoes to other problems.

My only real worry is weight. Thinking of fabricating most of the frames out of aluminum piping to avoid the weight of lumber framing on fixtures.
 
Plenty of capacity for a few wood framed items, like bed and cabinets. Probably only 100 lbs of wood will be used?
Aluminum is not cheap, so unless you got a cheap supply of tubing, I'd skip it.
 
Hehe, thrift store bed and futon frames. Many are made of fairly thin but strong aluminum piping that are surprisingly consistent sizes. A little looking and you can get enough to make "boxes" which provide frames to mount paneling or plywood on.

Salvage is great :)
 
There's also a thread or two on foam construction... I may use foam for some upper cabinets to keep the weight down!
 
gargoyle said:
Plenty of capacity for a few wood framed items, like bed and cabinets. Probably only 100 lbs of wood will be used?
Aluminum is not cheap, so unless you got a cheap supply of tubing, I'd skip it.

You'd be surprised how fast wood adds up weight wise,  100 lbs isn't much at all.  Few 2x4's and two sheets of plywood an you're at or over 100lbs.  

Congrats on the van!  Sometimes particular areas prices reflect a different reality than KBB.  I'd say you did just fine for $2k.  I had a Dodge Dakota with the 3.9 and although it wasn't the most powerful engine i've ever owned, it never left me stranded.  I also towed a 6x10 tool trailer regularly with it and never had any issues.  I think that weighed about 2800 lbs. I also carried a 500 lb motorcycle in the bed quite often and never knew it was back there.  So I don't think adding 500lbs give or take a few hundred to the back of it between your  build out and gear will kill it.  Probably won't even notice it.  

Look forward to seeing your build pics.
 
katnerd said:
So, I found a Dodge Ram 1500 van for a pretty good price and bought it thinking it would be a decent starter vehicle for a "home on wheels".
 Thanks in advance, guys 'n gals!






Just one thought - try to ensure that any material you use, is specified as, "formaldehyde-free". It can be an issue in many foams or other synthetics, also in OSB & sometimes plywood. It's in most vehicles today, but could be more of an issue in something you're in full time.
 
one thing I would like to point out, there is no reason whatsoever to use 2x4's in a build. 1x2's and 2x2's are plenty. for cabinets skin it with 1/8 plywood. for walls 1/8 plywood, the only time you need more than 1/8 ply is for the floor and the bed. highdesertranger
 
drysailor said:
Just one thought - try to ensure that any material you use, is specified as, "formaldehyde-free". It can be an issue in many foams or other synthetics, also in OSB & sometimes plywood. It's in most vehicles today, but could be more of an issue in something you're in full time.

Oh, yeah. Toxicity is always a concern with building materials. Right now in my plans my only concern is I was looking at the foam cabinet construction and the thought I had was to cover them with spray on bedliner. Gotta test the stuff though for fumes. Other than that, most of the construction materials I intend on using are already proven for use in dwellings.

Only thing I've seen frequently used by many van dwellers in their builds that I'm not going to use is Reflectix as insulation. From the desctiption of the product I've read it's not terribly effective as insulation, so I'm opting for foam with some spray foam used as filler in rare spots.

I got the thing through emissions yesterday and tagged it. So now I'm just waiting for the backup camera (gonna use it mostly as a rear view mirror) to come it as the first step, then a few minor repairs on the dash. Taking a bit of time to research as I go for things like insulation and flooring. Small van (for a full size) so I have to plan everything to maximize my space.

Thanks for the welcome guys 'n gals :D
 
Sounds like you have a solid vehicle, cheap, with known limitations (v6 power, low tongue weight, lower payload) however you seem to be going into this with your eyes open.

Since you don't have a 1 ton cargo to start with, and you already know you are facing payload limits/weight issues, so keep everything as light as possible as far as furniture construction and other built-ins. 

Remember that you are going to be adding rv batteries (60-75# apiece), possible solar on roof (20-50# panels), maybe a compressor fridg or an ice chest, 10 gallons of water (@7-8#'s per gallon), insulation, flooring, your spare items like clothing and kitchen things. It all adds up.

Go on U-tube and watch build videos especially the ones that involve using "undersized" framing with glue and screws, foam cabinet construction, pvc for the bed frame instead of wood, that kind of thing. Plastic totes instead of a footlocker or a $10 used wooden/particle board dresser...

Those are my thoughts. You didn't give much info on the actual mechanicals of the van (lots of specs) so be aware of the standard Dodge issues, computer, wiring, rust on front suspension. The forum has lots of info on these if you search "dodge" for example.

However its yours now so enjoy the build and the opportunities to come. Be sure to vent (roof) since you live in a hot climate. That or follow the elevation (Flagstaff) as it warms up.
 
This world isn said:
Sounds like you have a solid vehicle, cheap, with known limitations (v6 power, low tongue weight, lower payload) however you seem to be going into this with your eyes open.

Since you don't have a 1 ton cargo to start with, and you already know you are facing payload limits/weight issues, so keep everything as light as possible as far as furniture construction and other built-ins. 

Remember that you are going to be adding rv batteries (60-75# apiece), possible solar on roof (20-50# panels), maybe a compressor fridg or an ice chest, 10 gallons of water (@7-8#'s per gallon), insulation, flooring, your spare items like clothing and kitchen things. It all adds up.

Go on U-tube and watch build videos especially the ones that involve using "undersized" framing with glue and screws, foam cabinet construction, pvc for the bed frame instead of wood, that kind of thing. Plastic totes instead of a footlocker or a $10 used wooden/particle board dresser...

Those are my thoughts. You didn't give much info on the actual mechanicals of the van (lots of specs) so be aware of the standard Dodge issues, computer, wiring, rust on front suspension. The forum has lots of info on these if you search "dodge" for example.

However its yours now so enjoy the build and the opportunities to come. Be sure to vent (roof) since you live in a hot climate. That or follow the elevation (Flagstaff) as it warms up.

I had completely blanked on using pvc as a framer...Thanks for the reminder, lol.

I was heavily inspired by this channel on much of my planning (he's got more space than me, obviously). I really liked his solution to insulating the floor without losing lots of space.

I was aware of the mechanicals. I was, in fact, looking for a Ford when all this began as I'm very familiar with Fords. One of  the reasons I went with this one was the disappointing condition of most of the used vans I looked at. When I got to this one I couldn't pass on it due to the, almost perfect, mechanical condition. It's a former Verizon van that was bought by a little old Mexican man. Miguel kept impeccable service on it during the time he owned it. Even when he got too old to actually drive it regularly he religiously took it out about once a week and still kept up with the service. I got it because his son and daughter had recently moved in with him and, kind of, forced him to sell it.

No leaks of oil, transmission, or differential (rare in a vehicle this old). He re-wired a few things in the dash, but that's nothing I can't undo.

Thanks for the advice!
 
tnttt forms have used Poor Man's Fiberglass (PMF) and PVC tubing to do some amazing light weight things. Solar is gonna weigh so save weight where you can. Interior doors with 1/4" plywood on top will support a 200 pound person, so will 4 of the 20" totes, but cheap metal frames might end up being the lightest sleeping platform.
 
bullfrog said:
tnttt forms have used Poor Man's Fiberglass (PMF) and PVC tubing to do some amazing light weight things.  Solar is gonna weigh so save weight where you can.   Interior doors with 1/4" plywood on top will support a 200 pound person, so will 4 of the 20" totes, but cheap metal frames might end up being the lightest sleeping platform.

Yah, my original thought for the bed-frame and sink/stove platform was to use salvaged aluminum tubing. I'm familiar enough with working with aluminum that the 'how" is a non-issue. I'll probably stick with the tubing for the bed frame, but the pvc idea may be good for some other things I have in mind :)
 
You've obviously thought the van purchase over and have a good start on construction ideas. Great that you found a good solid base vehicle to work with.  Don't forget to keep unsprung weight like tires and rims down, oversizing there can cost you payload and you dont even know it.

Check on the electrical subforum for alternator and solar charging ideas and advice. There's tons of it there, you could literally read for days (I have).
Anything that HDR, SternWake or Jimindenver (among others) posted in good counsel. (Sorry if I forgot others).

Then peruse the insulation subforum, then the heating and cooling, then the cooking. After you've (taken a month to) read all those, you'll have either analysis paralysis or just a whole lot of knowledge!

Best of luck with the project!
 
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