AC power and batteries

[arizonatruck]

I am probably putting way too much thought into this, but that's how my brain works sometimes.  I want to be able to run a generator or plug into shore power on occasion.  How would I do this while have the primary system be solar with inverter?  I also do not want to have two separate electrical systems for AC power.  Same system.  I also want to charge the batteries at the same time.

 

[VanLifeCrisis]

Im not 100 %, but wouldn't one of those iota charges do this?&nbsp; I think i read somewhere that it can charge the batteries from shore power and still run the stuff inside too.&nbsp; Not sure how to make it jive with the solar...<br><br>

 

[wrcsixeight]

Have a power strip that plugs into the inverter, or grid power as available. &nbsp;That is easiest<br><br>Real RV's have transfer switches to switch sources from inverter to grid or generator. &nbsp;I don't know much about these. &nbsp;I think some are automatic.

 

[arizonatruck]

I would like to use one of those inverters that is also a battery charger.&nbsp; When it plugs into a generator or shore power, it charges the batteries and use shore power to power the inside.&nbsp; Kind of like the battery backups.&nbsp; The problem is that they are very expensive.

 

[arizonatruck]

I was thinking of having the inverter and the shore power plug into the same area.

 

[arizonatruck]

I was thinking of having the inverter and the shore power plug into the same area ac circuit.

 

[Timmymac]

The way I did my mom's power in her van, she has a permanently mounted 110VAC multioutlet strip which is normally plugged into an inverter.&nbsp; When she wants to use shore power 110V, she just unplugs the multioutlet strip from the inverter, and plugs the strip into the shore power extension cable.<br><a href="/file?id=1585818" rel="lightbox" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.websitetoolbox.com/82529/thumb/1585818" class="bbc_img"></a>&nbsp;<br><br>For charging the house batteries from shore power, she can just plug a small car battery charger into the 110VAC multioutlet strip, and then plug the charger 12V cable into the 12V multioutlet.&nbsp; Very convenient.&nbsp; I'll try to get a picture of how this works, once the weather cools down a little on my next day off.<br><br>Here's a nice simple charger... <a href="http://www.sears.com/diehard-10-amp...21000P?prdNo=7&amp;blockNo=7&amp;blockType=G7" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Sears Charger</a> .&nbsp; <br><a href="http://www.amazon.com/K40-K403CBPP-...p;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=cigarette+lighter+plug" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Here's</a> a good cigarette lighter plug which is rated for 15 amps.&nbsp; Don't use a cheapie 12V plug, it might melt and ruin your day.&nbsp; <br><br>If your battery is really drained, you might get 10 amps of current from the battery charger, and most cigarette lighters use a 10 amp fuse.&nbsp; You might end up popping the fuse.&nbsp; In my case, the 12V outlet is fused at 30 amps and the plug is fused at 15 amps, so the charger will work fine.

 

[blars]

I wired up a switch box with two plugs, an outlet, and a dpdt switch.&nbsp; One plug to inverter, one to wall (generator/shore), device to be powered to outlet.&nbsp;&nbsp; Cut up an extention cord and a spare power cord, switch, box, etc from home depot.&nbsp; (Both hot and neutral switched, ground not.)

 

[bee]

Depending on what you want to do you don't necessarily need to switch. &nbsp;For example when I plug into shore power/generator. &nbsp;My iota 3 stage charger will power up and begin charging the batteries as necessary. &nbsp;Everything that I normally run off of batteries can still be run off of the batteries as they are charging. (it may slow down the charge rate since some power will be used to power those accessories that could otherwise be going into the batteries.)<br><br>I would then have an outlet or 2 for any large draw items that is hooked directly to shore power. &nbsp;This way you don't need to use your 12v system and inverter to power large items, like an air conditioner, welder, etc. &nbsp;Items that you aren't going to use unless you are plugged into shore power.<br><br>It won't be a problem with solar. &nbsp;The worst that will happen is the solar controller will get confused because it will see high voltage and think the batteries are already charged, it will then switch to float or maintenance mode and basically will just let your shore power charger do all the work.<br><br><br><br>I was originally going to get a 3 in one charger/inverter/auto transfer switch unit, like a zantrex. &nbsp;It does give you nice easy installation taking up less room and fewer wires, BUT if one portion dies you have to replace the whole unit. &nbsp;I also decided I was going to use an ultra high efficiency inverter a morningstar 300w as my main inverter. &nbsp;This would complicate things with the all in one unit, so this is why I went with the system mentioned above.

 

[cygvan]

my parking host provides me with a dedicated 20amp gfci outlet from his garage. i feel very fortunate.<br><br>this is how i wired my van.<br><br>i use a 50' extension cord rated for 20 amps. (i intend to make a custom cord rated for 30 but this works for now).<br><br>i made a waterproof dogbone adapter that has male three prong 15 amp on one end and female 30 amp twist lock (3 prong 3 wire).<br><br>i connect the dogbone to a marinco stainless steel 30 amp twist lock power inlet attached to side of van.<br><br>inside the van, the marinco inlet is wired to a grey pvc electrical box using watertight type fittings.<br><br>from this box, i run a custom cable consisting of 12g SJOOW 12/3 (this cable is water and oil resistant on outer and inner jackets) directly to a small breaker box where i have a 15 amp breaker. the cable is inserted into grey watertight flexible conduit. i love that stuff. i think its called liquidtite.<br><br>i use a 15 amp breaker to ensure that i stay well under the 20 amp outlets capacity. this is mainly for peace of mind knowing i have a long run of wire but also in case i trip and my host is not home. the 15 amp breaker in the van will trip first.<br><br>from the breaker box, i wired a small run to a nearby duplex outlet (i used 20 amp outlets because they are rated for stranded wire and have excellent clamping compared to the 15 amp push type) outlet, then to <br><br>a single outlet for the microwave in a cabinet, then to<br><br>a final duplex outlet for convenience under the desk. doubt ill need it.<br><br>on the first outlet, i plug in my iota dls-45/iq4 charger and a metal surge protected outlet strip with 1500 joule protection.<br><br>i have a tripp lite 1250 watt inverter which i have never used but if i needed to be on inverter, i would simply unplug the outlet strip from the a/c outlet and plug it into the inverter (as others have mentioned).<br><br>i have a marine battery selector switch that i have not wired yet. this will disconnect the iotas 12v charging cables (#6g) from the batteries and allow me to select charging form the solar mppt side of things (which i have not yet purchased).<br><br>its a fairly simple system and pretty safe. all cables can handle the power demand i place upon it and has been trouble free for 2 years so far.<br><br>when i need to drive, i simply turn off the breaker, go outside and disconnect the dogbone and cord (dogbones are great in case you forget this part LOL..it will simply detach and not drag the garage onto the interstate).<br><br>when i return, i plug in the dogbone and cable ( and because everything a/c inside is disengaged by the breaker, i get no surge or spark) and enter the van and flick the breaker on.<br><br>the solar install might complicate things a little but i think i have the option to get an mppt controller that will make switching between the iota and solar more automatic. have to study that.<br><br>btw i am currently running a single deka 4d 200ah agm battery and have room for a second in my battery enclosure.

 

[cygvan]

forgot to add...on the 12v side of things...<br><br>i wired the iota dls45/iq4 to a blue sea 5026 fuse block. it has 12 ports for d/c devices and uses the automotive type fuses.<br><br>the blue sea 5026 fuse block is then wired to my battery.<br><br>i have yet to install a switch to d/c the battery or select solar but i have it handy.<br><br>the iota does a nice job of providing clean steady 12v power when plugged into a/c either while charging or dormant.<br><br>the specs on it indicate it will draw a max of 11 amps a/c and provide 45 amps d/c for charging or use.<br><br>since i have a constant load of a truckfridge 130 and fantastic fan, i have yet to see the charger pull 11 amps even during bulk charging. i used a kill a watt to check. so it seems to regulate itself on what it draws.<br><br>its a great charger.

 

[coultergeist]

Hi,<br><br>My system for this is pretty simple.&nbsp; I have an outlet box installed near the back door of my van.&nbsp; It has a 50 amp receptacle in it.&nbsp; This receptacle has a cable coming from it that is plugged into my main power inverter.&nbsp; <br><br>The main power distribution panel has a cable with a 50 amp plug wired to it.&nbsp; <br><br>There is a power entry door in the back door of the van.<br><br>When I want to use inverter power (majority of the time), I plug the 50 amp cable from the power distribution panel into the 50 amp receptacle that is connected to the inverter.<br><br>When I will use external power, I unplug the 50 amp cable from the power panel and plug it into the extension cord coming in from outside through the power entry door.&nbsp; <br><br>I did it like this for safety.&nbsp; There is no possible way to accidentally plug both power sources in at the same time.&nbsp; It is really simple and easy to use.<br><br>It could be done just as easily with 30 amp or 20 amp connectors.&nbsp; It was simplest at the time to go with the 50 amp connectors.&nbsp;<br><br>Patrick

 

[arizonatruck]

Thanks for the ideas.&nbsp; Have any photographs.

 

[arizonatruck]

Has anyone thought of using heat to produce power?