AC options for a van?

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When people say a lot of Solar to power an a/c, what do they mean in watts and battery AH's? Trying to read the posts about solar is like reading ancient Greek and makes my head ache.
 
RowanFae said:
When people say a lot of Solar to power an a/c, what do they mean in watts and battery AH's?  Trying to read the posts about solar is like reading ancient Greek and makes my head ache.

Running the compressor in an A/C unit takes power. Solar panels turn the sun's energy into electrical power to run the A/C unit including it's compressor. Solar panels are usually rated in watts, and batteries are usually rated in amp hours.

When you do the calculations, (using watts and ah's), you arrive at some results that usually mean you need a lot of panels over a fairly large surface area to run that A/C unit.

Then, if you also want to run the A/C after the sun is down, or on cloudy but hot days, or while surrounded by shade trees, you need a fairly large, heavy and/or expensive battery bank to do that thru an inverter. Now you also need a larger solar array to run the A/C, plus charge the batteries. 

It can be done, but it does cost a fair amount of money to do it.
 
Thanks.  So by "...lots of panels on a fairly large surface area..." are we talking full length bus? Skoolie? box/step truck? Cargo van?  I'm guessing a minivan is out of the running, because where would you put the batteries?
 
Yes, much bigger than a mini van, even full-size.

If you run aircon off panels directly not batteries is more managable than off batteries. Also recharging bank and running aircon takes a lot more.

Eurovans also too small.

Skoolie, Class A RV, 20' box truck, step van, like that.

$3-5,000 to get you started.

Will end up running the genny a fair bit anyway, so to save money, skip the solar and huge heavy bank.
 
I agree very closely with John. I'm personally upgrading my solar to 825 watts from 570 and adding another charge controller. Will also be tilting those panels and doing almost everything I can to be as efficient as possible. I have a 6X12 cargo trailer. 1000 watts worth of panels would be about max a person could put on there. The new panels I will be getting will be a little smaller so as not to be right at the edge of the trailer, so that's why it will only be 825 watts worth of panels. The cost of my solar will be one third of the entire cost of the build and that's with a brand new, custom built, dual axle, aluminum cargo trailer. Very expensive. And it still might not be enough. I really thing it will be enough, but I've been wrong before. We will find out next year if I can actually run AC on that; will certainly be doing a review.
 
I fit 960 rated watts of solar panels on a standard size van but it overhangs on each end because a roof vent got in the way.
My AC uses a little over 400 watts running. A solar panel will only put out the rated amount if you are on the equator with the panel 90 degrees to the sun and only at high noon. In other words it is a theoretical maximum and 400 watts of panels will not run a 400 watt AC.

If a cloud gets between me and the sun, the panels will not keep up and so power has to come out of the batteries. When the cloud moves, there is enough panels to run the AC and recharge the batteries. So it needs to be more sunny than cloudy. Before about 10am or after maybe 5pm, no way the panels will produce enough power. I also have a generator that will run the AC.

I posted a link to the solar system running the AC both without and with clouds elsewhere, but here it is again.
I replaced the back windows with 1/8" aluminum. the AC vents out the top of the van. With the doors closed it is hard to tell the AC is running.
 
RogerD said:
Check out Frigidaire [font=Gotham, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]FFRE0533S1[/font]

[font=Gotham, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]5000 BTU window unit[/font]
[font=Gotham, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]150 sqft[/font]
Energy Efficiency Ratio: 12.2
[font=Gotham, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]410 watts / 3.8 amps on cool setting and has energy saver setting[/font]
[font=Gotham, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]$179[/font]

[font=Gotham, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]It's the lowest watts / amps unit I could find and it works great![/font]

[font=Gotham, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]If someone knows of something lower let me know.[/font]
Bingo. The Sportsman 1000i generator will run that AC. I paid something like 157.00 on sale for my Sportsman and that's the AC I'm going to install...
 
I was looking at buying the Energizer eZV2000S.

1600 running watts / 2000 start

$539 from homedepot

Says...at an electrical load of 400-Watt (25% of max capacity) the run time is 11.5 hours / fuel tank is .9 gallon.

My concern is the sound.

I was thinking about doing a wall like in DannyB video and a have the generator inside also and try and sound dampen it as best as possible. I will also stack the roof with solar panels as well. I'm getting an extended chevy express.

How important is having a roof vent fan if you have AC? I would prefer not to have one, so it doesn't take up space on the roof.
 
John61CT said:
3.8A on mains is 40+A from 12V.

So if low outside temps and / or good insulation allows a 50% cycling ratio,  that's 20AH per hour when it's on.

Wow, I did not know this.

But you are most certainly correct. I just look up a calculator to convert AC to DC amps.

It's still the lowest amp unit I could find.

Good insulation won't be a problem.

But I'm in FL with an average 90 degree in summer. 

I need to refresh myself on solar and figure out what I will need.

My biggest question is what batteries offer the best bang for the buck, as that is the main expense.

Big thanks for bringing that up.
 
Hey guys, how well does a 5000 btu a/c cool a van? Think it would cool a 6x12 well insulated cargo trailer? Thanks
 
The best bang for the buck are lithium. They are the most expensive up front, but over the life span of the battery, they are the cheapest. A 5000 BTU AC would freeze your buns off in such a small space with good insulation. I've cooled down a moderately insulated apartment with 6 times the amount of space of a cargo trailer.
 
That's great news Canine... i sure hoped a 5000 would do the job, less watts to deal with. Thanks
 
My 6X12 trailer with almost white exterior has 2 inches of XPS insulation in the floor, 3 inches of polyiso in the walls, and 4 inches of polyiso in the ceiling. The R value in my walls is 21 with no thermal breaks. The standard for a house is R19 with thermal breaks every 16 inches. I have no doubt that when insulation properly, 5000 BTUs will be more than enough.
 
Canine said:
My 6X12 trailer with almost white exterior has 2 inches of XPS insulation in the floor, 3 inches of polyiso in the walls, and 4 inches of polyiso in the ceiling. 

There are reefer trailers that arent insulated that well...I think you could almost cool the inside of that with an ice cube!

;)
 
Maybe a 4" sealed reefer box, only 10-15° temp differential.
 
RogerD said:
I need to refresh myself on solar and figure out what I will need.

My biggest question is what batteries offer the best bang for the buck, as that is the main expense.
Start with very good insulation, a very efficient aircon unit and a generator.

Then look at solar + batteries to reduce the genny runtime, for most people that will be just a few hours per day.
 
I don't understand. what are you all doing all day inside a van in 90-100° weather? get out, do something, anything. highdesertranger
 
Riverman said:
Hey guys, how well does a 5000 btu a/c cool a van?  Think it would cool a 6x12 well insulated cargo trailer?  Thanks

It will easily do the job.

Last week I built an 8x10 room in my workshop and run a 5000 BTU AC and it's cold as can be in it while it's 90 degrees outside.

I have the Frigidaire [font=Gotham, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]FFRE0533S1[/font]

[font=Gotham, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]5000 BTU window unit[/font]
[font=Gotham, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Cools up to 150 sqft[/font]
Energy Efficiency Ratio: 12.2
[font=Gotham, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]410 watts / 3.8 amps on cool setting and has energy saver setting[/font]
[font=Gotham, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]$179[/font]
 
If you want an a/c unit then consider setting up your solar system to run 48 volts instead of 12 volts, you'll need a 48 volt compatible inverter but it will run much more efficiently and help preserve your battery capacity longer.
 

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