99 Ford Econoline Question about Drilling into the frame

[the7thcity]

Hey guys! Im new here and found you guys because I am trying to convert my 99 Ford F250 into a camper van. I just started and want to drill into the frame, floor, and walls but dont know what screws to use. Any help here? Some people used glue, not sure if I can do that because my floor is uneaven. I am trying to make the floor look like this:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-npTtL7D298s/UWrKyUypoXI/AAAAAAAAAC8/s-d9R4laDyM/s640/IMG_1961.jpg

What screws should I use? Thoughts?

Another question is how do I fill holes in the floorboard? I have about 4 dime size holes I need to fill. Thanks!

 

[GotSmart]

How crazy do you want to get?

Self tapping screws. Go to your local hardware, and ask to see the different types of self tapping screws. Then ask questions of the person showing you.

There is wood putty for filling holes in wood.

Or you can do like everyone else and throw a inexpensive carpet over the floor. Blocking up the drainage channels in a floor like that seems like over kill to me. Put a decent sound barrier down, and wood over it.

 

[the7thcity]

Good advice on self tappers. How crazy? Need to out shelves on the walls and bolt bed to the floor.

 

[Almost There]

To seal the existing holes in the floor you can use 2 part epoxy and anything metal large enough to cover the hole. One guy here used pennies IIRC. Or of course you could bondo them but the epoxy is easier...

That pic you put up of the reflectix laid in the channels isn't going to be an effective use of the reflectix. Unless it's got an air space between it and the metal it has no reflective value. It's a radiant heat barrier and has a very low insulative R value. It will also crush to nothing with weight on top of it.

If you really want to insulate the floor, then about the easiest way to do it is to build a frame from 1 x 2 turned on their side (narrow side up) Then you could put 1 1/2" polyiso insulation cut to fit inside the frame pieces and lay plywood over top. Don't even worry about filling up the channels.

I'm putting 1" plywood down on the floor myself. The first full sheet will go as far forward as I need on the passenger side and will be contoured to fit snugly around the upright posts. By overcutting just a tad the other side can be effectively wedged in so that they are not going anywhere. All the seams in the flooring plywood will be underneath where the bed and the cabinet is going to be and they'll be screwed into each piece of plywood - they won't move at all. There is no need to screw into the floor. Roadsplash will soon turn each screw hole into an entry point for water and gunk.

The 1" plywood is thick enough to mount cabinets and bed frames to so you don't have to go in to the metal floor at all.

 

[GotSmart]

I disagree.

If there is either a rollover, or running over a large item then you have flying everything. I bolted everything down.
https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Starting-the-build

I am now ready to do it over differently. That is a shorty van.

 

[flying kurbmaster]

you can buy rubber or plastic plugs for those holes in the floor, either at an auto parts store or a place like home depot and just pop them in. They come in a variety of sizes, not expensive. I am not a fan of self tappers, so I would suggest number 6 or 8 Robertson screws, flat heads for the thicker stuff, or if you want it flush, pan heads for the pannelling, what ever length you need depending on the material you are screwing down. you can use upholstery washers in the pannelling for extra strength.  You will likely need a variety of lenghts, for the build, from 3/4 to 1 1/2 inches, you could use stainless steel if you don't mind spending the money but you will be ok with plated, especially inside, you will have to predrill each hole but this is not an issue, have two drills one with the driver the other with the drill bit. You should buy a few extra drill bits as you can expect to break a few, and wear them out. Dipping your drill bit in cooling wax is a good idea, if you have some, otherwise you can dip it in oil to cool it between holes this will extend the life of your drill bits. good luck keep us posted on your progress.

 

[LeeRevell]

Have you considered the weight of one inch plywood?

 

[GotSmart]

Have you considered the weight of one inch plywood?

That is why I went with 1/2 inch Advantek.  More strength and less weight.

Also why I am doing a 1 ton or larger next time. 

 

[the7thcity]

1" plywood is too thick for my purposes.

 

[the7thcity]

you can buy rubber or plastic plugs for those holes in the floor, either at an auto parts store or a place like home depot and just pop them in. They come in a variety of sizes, not expensive. I am not a fan of self tappers, so I would suggest number 6 or 8 Robertson screws, flat heads for the thicker stuff, or if you want it flush, pan heads for the pannelling, what ever length you need depending on the material you are screwing down. you can use upholstery washers in the pannelling for extra strength.  You will likely need a variety of lenghts, for the build, from 3/4 to 1 1/2 inches, you could use stainless steel if you don't mind spending the money but you will be ok with plated, especially inside, you will have to predrill each hole but this is not an issue, have two drills one with the driver the other with the drill bit. You should buy a few extra drill bits as you can expect to break a few, and wear them out. Dipping your drill bit in cooling wax is a good idea, if you have some, otherwise you can dip it in oil to cool it between holes this will extend the life of your drill bits. good luck keep us posted on your progress.

Are you saying that the Robertson screws will go threw wood and the metal floor?

 

[flying kurbmaster]

of course they will, you have to predrill them, you need a metal screw, I like using Robertsons because the square bit stays in better then Phillips or flat heads it is the choice by most professionals these days.