$3,000-$4,000

[ganchan]

I am, shall we say, eternally financially challenged. Boosting my income depends on being able to travel (I don't even have a car right now), and THAT means getting my hands on some sort of reliable transportation, preferably with enough cargo space to double as a camper/sleeper (which would allow me to downsize to minimal space/rent).

I think the best I'll be able to scrape together in any reasonable amount of time is $3000 to $4000 for a 2000-era SUV or minivan. Any specific suggestions in this price/age range? My initial thought is "any Toyota," but beggars can't be choosers....

 

[Almost There]

Where you are is going to limit that shopping trip more than anything else. Prices vary all over the country.

What will cost $3,000 in Texas could be going for $5,000 in New York City or vice versa.

Don't spend every penny you've got because you're going to need a start up fund for taxes, registration and a deposit on your insurance and an emergency fund for the inevitable initial repairs.

Also, since you don't currently have a vehicle, before you buy anything run it past an insurance agent to see what your insurance costs will be. Some vehicles cost way more to insure than others because of the high cost of collision repairs or a high theft rate.

 

[SoulRaven]

I'm a huge fan of big, older, pre-computer American vans.

I have typically had under $1500 in any of the older ones including both the van and the interior. They have proven to be far more reliable for me, and have saved me big money on insurance.

I get 18 MPG with mine on the highway, and I don't see too many minivans that claim enough better than that to compensate for the lack of room and comfort that a full size van can offer.

In my experience you're far more likely to get a well maintained passenger van than you are a cargo van. Cargo vans are usually rode hard and put away wet and show no pride of ownership.

A well maintained older van can get you many many trouble free miles. For the price, if they need expensive repairs, they can be replaced. That was my original plan, but to my surprise these old vans haven't needed any costly repairs. I just do typical maintenance and they seem to run forever.

Anyway, that's my take on it, Good Luck!

 

[skyl4rk]

I'm a huge fan of big, older, pre-computer American vans.

Does that mean before 1975?

 

[LeeRevell]

Does that mean before 1975?

My '86 and '88 vans have NO computers.  The '86 is carbureted, the '88 has early TBFI.  Much simpler to work on.  I am getting ready to replace the radiator in my '88, and using the '86 for some parts swapping.
No air bags, no ABS, no electronics other than the aftermarket stereo.  It does have electric door windows and locks, which need some work.  I already have the parts.
Most parts for older vans are much cheaper too.  All those modern gizmos and gadgets get spendy when they break!

The OBD-II computers came into use in 1996. There was an earlier OBD, but wasn't in all cars. My '05 Grand Caravan has OBD-II, and my computer reader keeps me abreast of codes. So far the only code thrown is occasionally one for a 'minor leak in Evaporative Control System. Irritating but so minor I clear it and motor on..... It seems to be related to certain temp and humidity conditions. It does have occasional problems with the power door locks and opening of side doors going inactive, requiring disconnect of the battery t clear it. Again, more irritating than anything.

 

[SoulRaven]

Does that mean before 1975?

I like the ones ranging from when the engines were moved forward from between the seats, up until the mid to late 80's when they started adding a lot of unneeded sensors and computer components.

Added electronics, sensors, etc. is just more added junk to have issues and need repair.  Give me a amp gauge, oil pressure gauge, temperature gauge, and gas gauge and I'm good.  Screw the oxygen sensors and all the rest of that BS.

I want a cable or linkage going from my gas pedal to the carb, not to a computer.  Same for transmission linkage.  I want manual heater controls, that if they break, I can still operate them the hard way.

You can't fix everything beside the road or in the woods, but the more stuff you can the better.  The newer stuff is specifically designed to try and force you to take your vehicle to the shop and spend big bucks on it.

I prefer the vehicles that duct tape and baling wire can rescue you from the majority of problems you can get yourself into.  If some unnecessary electronic component goes bad, you're dead in the water right there. Depending on where you're at, that could be fatal.

Most mechanical items will give you fair warning before failure if you're paying attention.  The same is simply not true for many electrical items.  On my 2004 Savannah, it was running perfect.  Parked, all is good...  Went to restart, wouldn't crank over.  Tried to force starter, still nothing.  Got it towed, and $1200 later for some stupid ignition sensor, it ran again.  Only 6k miles on the rig.  36 days later, same problem all over again.  Following month some other stupid sensor shut it down while I was going down the grapevine.  Killed my power steering and brakes, and darn near killed me!

2007 Chev Express.  Cruise control wouldn't disengage, took out of gear, no effect, turned off key, it kept running!  This went on for miles.  I finally started ripping out wires below the dash and it finally shut off.  $5500 repair bill.

In contrast, on this old van when my accelerator spring broke and my gas pedal stayed depressed when I removed my foot, I was able to stick my toe under it and pull it up.  Problem solved.  I then tied a piece of twine to it so I could manually pull it up until I got it fixed.  Cost me $1.35 for a replacement spring at a hardware store. I installed it myself in the parking lot.

I LOVE my computer and get a lot of enjoyment out of it.  If  it crashes, no big deal, I fix it, but my life isn't on the line and depending on it.  In a vehicle your life can be dependent on those computers and that's a risk I'm no longer willing to take.

 

[Canine]

I have a 2002 Sonoma. When I press on the brake with any effort on snow or gravel, it goes to the floor and I have no brakes. The ABS isn't working right. What the cost is to repair, I don't know, but it will be expensive. I don't know how to fix it and may not be able to. Instead I pulled the ABS fuse, disabling the ABS, and the brakes work great! They work far better than they ever have!

I can't just slam my foot on the pedal anymore, but I'm OK with that. Being forced to apply the correct pressure to the pedal depending on the road conditions is a small price to pay for superbly operating brakes.

 

[cdiggy]

ALB systems are, like most of those systems we use daily, a skill set numbing tool. They work great and mostly save lives and accidents but at the same time it dumbs us down and we lose the skillset we used to have for stopping. We used to be able to react to wheels locking up and our mind and body would be the ALB system. As the tech gets better and better our reaction times gets slower and slower. Again, it saves lives and accidents but the cost is the driver loses valuable skills that we once had.

 

[LeeRevell]

Being an old Hot Rodder, I consider ABS as a crutch for those who don't take the effort to learn to use their brakes properly. Maybe that offends some folks, but it is what it is.
Cruise control has a fuse too. Would have been a lot cheaper than ripping out wires!

 

[Almost There]

Being an old Hot Rodder, I consider ABS as a crutch for those who don't take the effort to learn to use their brakes properly.  Maybe that offends some folks, but it is what it is.
Cruise control has a fuse too.  Would have been a lot cheaper than ripping out wires!  

Now I like my cruise control TYVM!

ABS is a PITA and the sooner it fails or I pull the fuse the better!

Now if I could get rid of the darned air bag I'd feel a whole lot safer!!

 

[SoulRaven]

Being an old Hot Rodder, I consider ABS as a crutch for those who don't take the effort to learn to use their brakes properly.  Maybe that offends some folks, but it is what it is.
Cruise control has a fuse too.  Would have been a lot cheaper than ripping out wires!  

I was aware of a cruise control fuse, but couldn't access the fuse box while maintaining control of the van. :s

 

[highdesertranger]

I couldn't agree more with those who say no to all the high tech cr*p they put into cars and trucks today. lets face it, if it ain't there it ain't going to break. on top of that, eventually it will break. highdesertranger

 

[HarmonicaBruce]

I'm a big fan of the Ford Crown Vic cop car.  Cop cars were usually well maintained, and they're big strong cars.  There are web sites that specialize in cop cars.  If it was me, I'd take the back seat out for more room.  

 

[Bdog1]

"Parts left off an automobile cost nothing and need no repairs". (Or something close). Boss Kettering. Founder of General Motors. When did things go so wrong?

 

[Canine]

HarmonicaBruce, what has kept me away from cop cars is that they are at idle. A lot. A car with 100,000 miles on it might have 300,000+ miles on the engine because of all that idling. They are heavy duty so they always have the biggest, baddest alternator, brakes, etc., which is expensive, but it may be what a guy wants. Parts like that aren't always in immediate stock. And that spotlight is pretty cool! They are maintained impeccably, though; that is a big plus.

 

[LeeRevell]

I was aware of a cruise control fuse, but couldn't access the fuse box while maintaining control of the van. :s

Ah!  I thought you got stopped before ripping wires out.......    :-/

 

[HarmonicaBruce]

... cop cars.. idle a lot

That's true, you just never know.  Some cop cars have the "civilian package" to make them stealth, those probably wouldn't idle so much, but patrol car might be running 8 hours every day.  But, besides the cop shocks, cop brakes, etc, they have duel exhaust, the police interceptor motor, and a stab plate in the driver's seat (so the prisoner in the back seat can't stab you through the seat).  I've had a couple of Mercury Grand Marquis, which are like the crown vic, and they're great cars.  They go 200k easy.  My Mercurys got 25 mpg, although the cop car wouldn't be that good.  I've never had a cop car, but I've always thought one would be cool.

 

[LeeRevell]

My late father had a 2006 Grand Marquis. After he passed on Mom did not want it, nor did I or my sister. A friend and co-worker who like the big Mercs but had a faulty Caddy was very happy to buy it from us. That car just did not fit me. Nice car otherwise.

 

[cdiggy]

That's true, you just never know.  Some cop cars have the "civilian package" to make them stealth, those probably wouldn't idle so much, but patrol car might be running 8 hours every day.  But, besides the cop shocks, cop brakes, etc, they have duel exhaust, the police interceptor motor, and a stab plate in the driver's seat (so the prisoner in the back seat can't stab you through the seat).  I've had a couple of Mercury Grand Marquis, which are like the crown vic, and they're great cars.  They go 200k easy.  My Mercurys got 25 mpg, although the cop car wouldn't be that good.  I've never had a cop car, but I've always thought one would be cool.

My merc has 209k on it and still runs great. It gets about 25 highway and leaks no oil or tranny fluid. They really are great cars. The truck is very large (although not nearly as large as my 73 marquis, that car held 6 adults comfortably + at least another 6 bodies in the trunk) and holds most of my daily work tools. In a pinch a 6 foot a frame ladder can fit in the car as well. As a work vehicle it was cheap, good on gas and comfortable. If it met my needs as a stealth I would keep it and consider another one. 4.3 liter engine is a great power plant.

 

[YorzTrewli]

Ideally I would like a 91-97 Toyota Previa.  They run well, are gas efficient, and have more usable space than any other minivan.

94-97 Honda accord wagons, and 92-96 Toyota wagons are reliable car options you might consider.