2001 Chevy Express distributor cap, rusted screws

[autumnt]

Well, I do a fair amount of wrenching on things, so it is not like I am a novice when it comes to making repairs. This is my sticking point now.. The distributor cap rotor, has rusted screws that were hex or torx but are so rusted, we cannot get them out. Both of us have given it our best, but I have not had this kind of problem before.. Usually, they come out after a while.. These are unreal.. 

I have only had this van a month. It has a 350 cu in motor and was running strong. A week after I got it, it started missing. The OBDII says misfire on #2.. Well, we all know how much fun it is to work on van motors. So, I had tried injector cleaner to make sure it was not that before pulling the dog house off. I got a replacement cap and rotor and my research says to start there as this is a problem area.. Well, we got the cap off and it was torx screws. The rotor had extremely rusted screws and we could not tell if it was hex or torx. I am not sure how we are going to get it off. The cap had corrosion inside, and the rotor does looked burnt.  So, we got two little screws holding up the fix.. Well, I hope it is the fix.. The screws are recessed so  I cannot grip the sides of them.. I hope I can find my dremell tool as I think I have to try putting a slot in them to use a screwdriver to take them out..  Ok.. time to get back at it..

 

[highdesertranger]

I would take the dremill tool and cut the plastic away so you could grip the screws with vise grips. on the other hand how in the hell did those screws get so rusty. maybe a new distributor is in order. highdesertranger

 

[Elbear1]

I would take the rotor and cap back and just get a whole new distributor online and be done with it. That way youre also getting a new pickup and all.

 

[Joe Dirt]

You didn't mention it, so I have to ask if you first checked to see if #2 spark plug is firing before you started working on the distributor? If it is firing, the problem is probably a faulty fuel injector/poppet, assuming that your engine has the spider type of fuel injection. A compression check would confirm a bad injector if you have both spark and compression on #2 cylinder

 

[MrNoodly]

Or maybe it's just a bad plug wire.

 

[B and C]

Given the conditio found under the cap, it needs changing regardless. I second HDR's removal method.

Edit to add: Check the oil for milkyness.

 

[Doubleone]

You'll just have to break off the plastic rotor to expose the screws and then use some visegrips. A drop of PB-blaster might help. If there's either red-ish dust/powder or oil residue under the rotor, the distributor is fubar'd and needs to be replaced. A new aftermarket distributor is in the $55 range and comes with cap and rotor...

 

[autumnt]

Ok, Here is my Update and the 2001 express van Misfire problem.. Well, the new cap took care of the misfire and even with the old rotor it was running good. My backyard mechanic friend, who I had not seen in a while stopped by, and insisted that I need to change the cap and offered to help. Well, we tried many things to get that cap off. Once we started there was no turning back. and it took a solid 2 hours to get it off. He had to drill out one of the screws as it was just plain frozen in place. We had to cut a sheet metal screw to 3/8" to use it to hold one side of the rotor in place.. So, the van is running now, but on borrowed time. I may retap the hole and put a better screw in it. I think a new distributor is a good idea, as this one is kinda a mess. I heard that there is a timing issue with the ECU that has to be synced once I change the distributor to keep the check engine light from constantly flashing. Some sort of big shop problem fix. We just have a few tools here at my house.. I work out of a tool box, not a fully equipped shop.

So, to recap.. the new distributor cap took care of the misfire, but I need a new distributor before I toast my new $80 distributor cap ( I got the more expensive one with non aluminum contacts). However, I feel I need to change the serpentine belt now due to how I feel after this fubar. Fun fun fun.

If anyone knows were I can get a good distributor at reasonable price.. Please let me know.. (not rock auto)..

Thank you everyone for your insight and feedback..

 

[highdesertranger]

why not Rock Auto? just curious as I never had a problem with them.

I would only buy a brand new distributor, not a rebuilt. also only an ACDelco or Delphi.

highdesertranger

 

[autumnt]

Well, I had a 2000 volvo v70, station wagon. It needed a it exhaust repaired.. I carefully ordered the one exhaust that would fit it. They sent me the wrong one and I had a hell of a time getting them to take it back. It was long and hard to ship, It was hard to find a place that would accept it for return shipping. Rock auto got nasty with me and I ended up just cancelling the payment after I had a receipt for sending it back.. I tried another company, got the same results, knew how to return it, and they just gave me a refund. I ended up selling the Volvo.. Those Volvo's really have a premium ride. I wasn't too bad to work on either.. Anyway, Rock auto told me to never buy from them again, and well, I was not going to buy from them anyway, but did not like hostile remark.. Both had an exact photo of the correct exhaust, but sent me something different and then said they did not carry the one in the photo..

 

[highdesertranger]

well I could make a Volvo remark here but I don't think you want to hear that. just make sure you get a Delco or Delphi new. highdesertranger

 

[autumnt]

I cannot find a Delco or Delphi distributor for under $200.. other brands are $30..  I know buying OEM is best.. Not sure where to go now..

 

[highdesertranger]

you get what you pay for. like that cap you bought, there is a world of difference between the cheap junk one and the good one. highdesertranger

 

[autumnt]

I am looking into a Delphi or Delco distributor. I am thinking I should just change the serpentine belt while I have the good weather to work on it.. Is there a belt that you feel is better than the rest?

 

[B and C]

I've always used Gates.

 

[Elbear1]

Ive had good luck with cardone. If youre looking at that big of a difference in price id just go aftermarket. If it ends up as junk in a few years its no big loss and replace with oem.

Sometimes you get what you pay for and sometimes youre paying $300 for a $60 pair of sneakers with the number 23 sewed on.

 

[highdesertranger]

Gates is top of the line. highdesertranger

 

[MrNoodly]

My mechanic friend says there's little point buying parts that will outlast the rest of your vehicle. So how many miles are on your rig? How many more miles can one reasonably expect before the engine or transmission wear out? For example, do you want to spend the extra bucks for a distributor that'll go 200k miles to put on an engine that'll go maybe less than 100k?

 

[highdesertranger]

that's the problem now-a-days, everything is considered disposable. use it and throw it out. highdesertranger

 

[Doubleone]

In my experience you can usually get away with a second-tier distributor cap but always, and I mean always, go with a premium rotor and wires. Beldin wires from NAPA are the absolute bomb! I've used the aftermarket distributors, but found the gears tend to be very soft and wear out quickly. A good thing considering they are softer than the camshaft. If I were to buy a distributor today, I'd still go with an aftermarket but I'd change out the gear and clearance the shaft end-play with shims before install... but that's likely something beyond most mechanics...