2 way refrigerator suddenly quit working. Help!

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TxGypsy

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I turned on the refrigerator in my camper van yesterday evening so that it would be good and cold to put stuff into so that I could leave today.&nbsp; This morning the refrigerator was not at all cold even though the indicator light was on and I could hear a normal sounding humming noise.&nbsp; It was working great last week.<br><br>I even drove around in the hopes that it would like the 12 volt better than the 110.&nbsp; Nope.&nbsp; Nada.<br><br>Any suggestions?
 
It doesn't have a brand name visible anywhere.&nbsp; It runs off of 12 volt and electricity.&nbsp; No propane.&nbsp; I did take off the bottom cover and the coils are in good condition, not even much dust.
 
Turn unit off. Tighten all connections. Get volt meter and check voltage. If all is well, turn back on.<br><br>Make sure nothing inside is against the temp sensor.<br><br>James AKA Lynx
 
I finally found the tag.&nbsp; It is a Norcold DE 571.&nbsp; I did a google search and haven't been able to find anything about this model.<br><br>There is no way to access the wiring to use a volt meter without taking the refrigerator out.&nbsp; I can't seem to locate the temperature sensor, but I'm still looking.&nbsp; Just about have to stand on your head to look inside of it.&nbsp; <br><br>
 
That was VERY helpful Cyndi!&nbsp; I have used the refrigerator while I have been in areas that aren't as hot as here.&nbsp; The manual I read through your link specified that it may not work if the ambient temperature is 100 or more.&nbsp; It's been hitting 110 degrees here daily and I don't have anywhere to park the camper van that it isn't in direct sunlight.&nbsp; I'm going to try and reset it when I get a couple of hours north of here tomorrow.&nbsp; I'm really hoping that is the problem!
 
The coils on the back is the condenser. &nbsp;This is where the heat removed from within the fridge box is transferred to the atmosphere. &nbsp;No dust on them might be an indicator of poor ventilation.<br><br>This compressor/ condenser compartment needs to be adequately ventilated or massive loss of efficiency is incurred.<br><br>Many RV's do not have compressor fridges adequately ventilated. &nbsp;Later Norcold models were designed so that the ventilation was built into the design, with a vent up top in front, but this limits internal room but idiot proofed the installation process.<br><br>My Norcold DE-0040 lasted a little over 5 years running 11 months a year, and it was more than adequately ventilated, with extra insulation.<br><br>Hopefully lower ambient temps will allow the compressor to kick on for you, but I wouldn't be holding my breath.
 
humming noise---?? <BR><BR>How Level is this reefer?<BR>older units will NOT cool if unlevel.<BR><BR>are you sure you had 115 volts going to it?&nbsp; <BR>the element might have burned out too<BR><BR>on 12 volts it takes much longer to get them to cool.<BR>most have 160 watt heaters @ 12 volts.
 
There is little point in having a 12/120 volt only absorption fridge. &nbsp;12v is for driving, 120 is for when hooked up to the grid, and propane is for boondocking. &nbsp;Absorption fridges work notoriously poorly on 12 volts, and chew up the battery too<br><br>Much more likely &nbsp;the Norcold in question is a AC/DC compressor fridge, and these can be upto 30 degrees off level before performance suffers or damage is incurred. &nbsp;Amp draw is from 2.5 to 6.5 amps when compressor is running ( 25 to 50% of the time), but some larger fridges can pull more, or run more often(duty cycle).<br><br>If the Norcold has failed, I would recommend a replacement fridge with a Danfoss/Secop compressor instead. &nbsp;Much Quieter, slightly more efficient, and can be recharged with refrigerant, unlike my failed Norcold which failed for that reason.
 
It appears that the Norcold DE line of fridges are indeed compressor type units. They are aimed at the marine and trucking industries. They are touted as being useable up to 30 degrees off level. <br><span style="color: #ff0000;"><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.norcold.com/PRODUCTS/NorcoldRefrigerators/tabid/195/Default.aspx" target="_blank"><span style="color: #ff0000;">Norcold</span></a></span><br>Hope this helps somehow.<br>-Bill-
 
I did a little off roading today to find a good quiet picnic spot.&nbsp; I went wayyyy back on a dirt road to a beautiful spot where I backed up to the woods and turned off everything.&nbsp; Moved into the back of the van for my lunch and I kept hearing something.&nbsp; What is that noise?!!!!!&nbsp; Then I opened the refrigerator to get a drink(I've been freezing gallon jugs of water and using it as a cooler) and realized that the refrigerator was cold!&nbsp; It was the refrigerator that was humming!&nbsp; Happy day!&nbsp; <br><br>I've been on the phone with several RV dealers and repair shops and it turns out that there is not an actual replacement for this model.&nbsp; So anything I would buy wouldn't fit just right.&nbsp; A couple of days ago I took the vent cover off to re-check everything and I left it off.&nbsp; Maybe it needed more air.&nbsp; Maybe there is a loose connection.&nbsp; Oh boy did it pick a good time to start working again as I am about to be on my way to Yellowstone.&nbsp; <img src="/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">
 
<p>Thank God for small miracles.&nbsp; Hope it keeps working and your trip is safe.&nbsp; Ed</p>
 
I went over the same rough road and it quit working again!!!&nbsp; Arrrggghhhh!<br><br>Don't suppose anyone has any idea what might be wrong with it?&nbsp; Any suggestions on where to look for a loose connection?
 
Turn the fridge upto max, go back there and start wiggling all visible connections until you hear the compressor turn on.<br><br>It could be an input voltage issue. &nbsp;The wires from battery to fridge should not be to long or too thin through too many connections. &nbsp;most fridges recommend wiring right to battery(fused). &nbsp;Most installers grab power from the easiest location, and rarely the two are the same.
 

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