12v refer comparision

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

highdesertranger

R.I.P HDR
Joined
Apr 4, 2012
Messages
22,892
Reaction score
89
ran into this the other day.  it's from Australia but it has some good info.  it compares 5 different 12v refers.  3 I have heard of ARB, Engel, Waeco.  the other two I haven't.  one thing I noticed is the said the Engel runs all the time,  I have 2 Engels I can assure you they don't run all the time,  they cycle just like the others.   anyhoo for the most part it was a good write up.  http://www.waeco.com/Global/_WAECO/2-AU/catalogues/4WD228_fridge_comparo_2.pdf .  highdesertranger
 
Thanks for finding this. An up to date review. I have just purchased an Indel B. It is Italian designed, made in China. Very quiet. Keeps temperature setting within 1 degree. Very well made, and seems sturdy. I have only had it one week, so will update reliability later.
 
Just a note. The two reviewed units, IronMan IceCube, and Powerteck both seem to be relabeled Indel B. The PowerTeck has the same design on the cooling grid. Both have the same control panel.
 
I'm confused, I thought Waeco was bought out by Dometic. Back in 2008 I ordered Waeco 25 quart but received the exact same fridge labeled as a Dometic and I read that Dometic had bought Waeco.

Perhaps Dometic only bought the rights to the USA and the rest of the world can still buy Waecos?

I own the 25 quart Waeco/Dometic and a friend owns a 40 quart Dometic/Waeco.

I also own a Whytner 60 quart and have friends with the 45 quart. I can tell you this for sure, in every way that I can see the build quality of the Whytner is superior. The hinge, lid seal and and insulation on my Waeco/Dometic are laughable, very poor designs and the Whytner is much better.

Of course the big question is will the compressor hold up, and I don't know that yet. My Dometic just died after 7 years, but one year it got very little use as I had switched to the Whytner. I was just leaving on this trip so I haven't looked into whats wrong with it, that will happen in the fall.
Bob
 
Interesting read.

Waeco developing its own compressor was interesting. I saw pics a while back showing what looked similar to a danfoss bd35f but also obviously different in the shape of the compressor controller.

It is also interesting the different products available in Australia compares to North America.

I had a front loading Norcold which had a Sawafuji compressor, which I found loud and annoying. Could vibrate the whole van. Impeded sleeping to some degree in the beginning. I spent considerable effort isolating that fridge for noise and vibration suppression and maximum heat dissipation. It failed after 5 years of running 11 months a year. Loss of refrigerant. Attempts at increasing compressor isolation could have been a contributing factor to that loss.

I absolutely despised going back to a cooler and block ice. I spent 18 dollars in ice in 3 weeks, not including the gas and inconvenience required to go get it to not let my food spoil.

Replaced with A Vitrifrigo c51is with a Danfoss/Secop bd35f. Much quieter, much less vibration. Condenser and fan design allowed me to optimize airflow over cooling unit to also greatly increase insulation on 5 of the 6 sides. Pulled 270 ohm resistor from thermostat circuit to slow compressor speed to 2000 from 2500. Averages 0.6 amp hours consumption over an hour in ~ average 70F ambient with a sub 35.5f interior.

The Norcold de0040 averaged ~ 0.8AH for sub 38f.

What appeared to be the same exact Norcold was sold under an Engel label as well for a while

I heard that Norcold had switched to using Secop compressors, but no idea if that was just internet rumor. I've not kept on top of all the latest offerings from Dometic Waeco, Isotherm, truckfridge, Whytner, norcold, Engel, Edgestar, NovaKool and Vitrifrigo. I am not sure who rebadges what nor what Dometic's relationship with Waeco is in this, or other countries.

This thread could be a good place for going into the various 12v compressor fridge options available in North America as of July 2015. Both front loading and chest style 12v compressor fridges.

Sitting diagonally on my Driver's seat for about the last 3 weeks is the ARB fridge tested in that article that belongs to my Friend. It has the extra insulative bag on it, and a good amount of free space on both sides near the vents. It varies the compressor speed depending on different variables. I noticed anywhere from 39 to 67 watts when the compressor is running. I have it set to 27f, and things can just barely freeze. When the compressor cycles on it runs for 15 minutes or so and the temperature gauge goes from 29 to 21 F, and it might not run again for another Hour or more. My VF comes on at least 3 times an hour, but for much shorter durations.

The ARB has a Ciggy plug cord which appears to be of better than average quality.. If battery voltage lowers to 12.1v, it refuses to run when set on the lowest battery protection setting, which the manual claims is 10.1v. 2 volts drop across the provided power cord seems excessive to me. My ciggy receptacle is wired with 10AWG. My IR gun revealed the ciggy plug to raise 7.5 degrees after the compressor was running for 10+ minutes. I'm going to splice an Anderson powerpole into the original cord so the ciggy plug can be bypassed, but still available for use.

The ARB has been averaging 0.65 to 0.78 AH every hour, so a bit more than my front Loading Vitrifrigo. The Fan on the ARB is Louder. Both can make a single clunk when the compressor first fires up. My VF makes a small click, then the subdued clunk when the compressor kicks in. The ARB is just the clunk, like a distant car door slamming, then you hear the fan spool up. I'm told I have sensitive hearing, but I do not agree.

The Click and clunk of my VF is much preferable to the humming and buzzing and weird harmonics the Norcold's Sawafuji compressor. The sawafuji cycled on and off similar to the Danfoss, A few times an hour for about 4 to 7 minutes on average but this could go as high as 11 minutes.

So thats my Experience with 12v compressor fridges, what's yours?
 
Thanks for all the details SternWake. I'm still saving my pennies to buy a fridge, and yes, if the trip is more than a couple days ice is a pain. Hopefully I'll be able to buy one before hitting the road for a month or so this winter. I haven't seen anyone mention National Luna, probably because they're about twice the cost if I recall. They seem to be extremely well made, lots of quality features, and very low power draw. I just looked and retail on a 40 liter is $1545.00. I'm not sure theyre that good!
 
This is a timely thread for me. I am on the fence with regards to whether I will buy a Norcold DE-0061 which will fit in the hole my shitty 110V/LPG Dometic currently sits or a truckfridge or vitrifrigo (Both smaller, however).

We are looking at storing the RV in a lot that will get full sun, and it makes sense to leave the Fridge on all the time if a compressor unit, as the 400W of solar should keep it running.

I had a DOmetic with a sawfuji in my 77 GMC and it ran ok, cooled ok, and was relatively quiet, but it was nearly 40 years old. The newer with the danfoss compressor are appealing, but the reviews are mixed. But then again, what RV products actually get glowing reviews. :dodgy:
 
Zonie, can you modify your cabinet for a larger fridge?

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|2276204|2276226|2276235&id=1262894

The DE0061 uses than same 'exceptionally quiet, hermetically sealed compressor" nomenclature my DE0041 used, and My DE0041 was a loud annoying SOB with the Sawafuji compressor. I certainly have heard many reports of Sawafujis not being exceptionally loud, so perhaps some are louder than others, or perhaps it is just different hearing abilities by reviewers.

When i first mounted my Norcold, and it was firmly attached to my cabinet I built around it, I could hear it running from outside the van, and could feel it vibrate the van by touching the body, and i made at least a dozen mounting design changes all in a somewhat futile attempt to reduce noise and vibration. Improvements were accomplished, but it still was too loud.

My opinion is find a Danfoss/Secop powered compressor fridge. Canadians should look up NovaKool, I think those are manufactured, or at least sold from British Colombia.
 
I have 2 engels. this model. http://www.engelcoolers.com/fridge-...ading-models/engel-mr040-ac-dc-fridge-freezer . I have no complaints about the noise level. but I won't go so far as to say it's quite not real noisy but not quite. it does vibrate so if it's lightly loaded with cans or bottles they could chatter. with food this really isn't a problem. plus I cut a thin piece of closed cell for the inside bottom, it cuts down on the chatter. however I do like them and would recommend them with the stipulation that they make some noise. my oldest one is 5 years old. both of them run 24/7 and sip power. they are rated at 2.5A/12V. I believe this is in the summer, although I have not run any test to verify this. hope this helps. highdesertranger
 
My Failed Norcold with the same swing compressor as your engel consumed 2.7amps at 12.6v.  That amp draw was steady through out the whole compressor cycle.  The Danfoss/Secop at its slowest compressor speed starts at 2.9a and tapers to ~2.2a by the time the compressor cycles off.  The Danfoss BD35f can power a 5 cubic foot fridge at 3500 rpm which is about 6.5 amps, so it is kind of cruising along, easy like, powering a 1.8 cubic foot fridge at 2000 rpm.

I just moved My Friend's ARB off of my driver's seat and moved it into my workshop and plugged it into my newer GTpower wattmeter which is capable of discerning smaller currents than my other wattmeters.

It showed the ARB consumes 0.06amps plugged in, when the compressor is not running.  That is about an additional 1 AH every 24 hours which Was not measured in my previous tests.

To my surprise, when I turned it OFF, but left it plugged in, it still consumed 0.06 amps.  When I unplugged it the meter when to 0.00

My clamp on Ammeter verified the 0.06a figure.

I need to put this newer more sensitive watt meter on my Vitrifrigo.  I have a 0.03amp fan running 24/7 inside my VF, and I am curious what the standyby amp draw is in total.  Again my previous tests were with the watt meter which cannot read currents under 0.1 or so so standby current and fan current were not counted.
 
Top