Starting the build

Hi everyone, I have a 1991 B250 Ram Van that I rescued in its way to the salvage yard. The previous owner had blown up the V6, and tried to install a V8, He did not know what he was doing. That part is over with, and now I have a fine running van with a 318 TBI that only has around 35,000 miles on it. This thread is not about mechanical, but body and interior.

I am on stage 2 of the build, which is repairing the rust, and building the interior into a home away from home. After reading threads on here, and asking questions for the past couple weeks, I started on the interior today.

First I removed the Captains Chairs that were behind the drivers seats. It took 2 men, a cheater bar, and some penetrating fluid. The floor was in good shape here. Then I went to remove the 8 bolts that were in the back. I started turning the first one, and heard a grinding crunch. :s Not good. I went under, and was looking at rust and wood, instead of metal. I got help, and removed the bolts, then I cut and removed the carpet and wood base.

I found a couple rusty holes. I pounded on them with a bar, and found the extent of the rust. I took a dremel tool, with a cutting wheel and cut out the rusted metal, and made sure I went back to good metal. Then I ground the paint and rust out.

Tomorrow I will finish cleaning the rust out, top and bottom. I will mask the top, and spray the bottom with Rustolium Primer converter. I will then cut some sheet steel and bend it to fit the opening, with a generous overlap. I will use JB Weld to attach the metal plate to the floor, and fasten it down with Stainless Steel screws. Since this is the floor, and it will be covered with vapor barrier, plywood, and carpet I do not need to finish it like I did the repairs on the outside.

I will post some pictures to show the steps I did today. You do not need to cover up the rust holes, you can fix them yourself with just a couple simple tools. That way your transportation will last longer. This build will be a poor mans build, Nothing fancy, just doing things as right as possible without hiring professionals at $60 to $120 an hour.

I hope it gives inspiration and helps to ease the fear and worries about fixing things yourself.

Once the floor is done, it will get the plywood base and the radiant heat barrier. Then the cabinets and set up for the solar. Carpet comes in after everything else is built.

Since you have the floor stripped, you might want to put in an access door for the fuel pump. That way if your pump fails on the road some time in the future, you wouldn't have to drop the tank to replace it.

Oooooo....good one!


(the voice of experience??)

Nope. Luckily I haven't needed to do mine but I know a good tip when I see one. Those online forums are great

slow2day said:

Since you have the floor stripped, you might want to put in an access door for the fuel pump. That way if your pump fails on the road some time in the future, you wouldn't have to drop the tank to replace it.

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I would do that, in fact I should do that. I have the Stainless hinge to do it with~~~ But as the motor was going out with the PO, he changed the fuel pump. It has perhaps 300 miles on it. I had it out two months ago when I cleaned the tank and replaced every last hose in the system. So I know it was done. (Dropping the tank with 15 gallons in it was a pain!)

Here is a hint while replacing the pump. Use Vaseline petroleum jelly as a lubricant to get your gaskets and threads to slide in place without binding and causing problems. I had to tie up the pump with a cotton string as the built in spring was throwing things just far enough off to make the threads not want to start.

I will think about it, and if I come up with down time and no money, to move on with the project, I just might do it. It will cost me about $5 in paint and materials. :-/ I have those items in stock. I do have a week before I can buy the flooring materials. :huh:

I had already laid down a new floor & carpet and built a bed platform in my van before I ran across that tip online,so it will be done when (or if) the pump fails in my case. Actually, with the tank in place you would need to be pretty careful about locating and cutting the hole. Maybe even dropping it down some to make sure you don't cut into anything,depending on what you use to cut with.

I had read that some of the aftermarket pumps weren't all that great and of owners having to mess with them multiple times, so it seemed like a good idea.

I have not seen where the Dodge pumps were having problems. I am a member of Ramcharger central, and there would be noise if anyone had put out a series of bad pumps that fit that application.

I would be using a Dremmel. Lots of sparks~~~ I think you convinced me NOT to do it. Especially since I would be building a custom floor over it.

Cutting in a fuel pump access door is a great idea for us injected Dodge owners. I dread the day I haveto drop the tank in my '89.

Dropping the tank was not really that bad. A floor jack and wood blocks. I have a Craftsman Pass through socket set. I bought extra extensions, and two extensions together were able to reach up the J~bolt to get the nut off of it. I just needed a 3rd hand when putting things back together. While there, make sure you change out all the hoses and clamps. The ones on mine were original from 91!!! The PO had changed the pump out, but not one hose! 22 year old dry hoses and factory clamps! I spent about $10 in hoses and clamps. While at the parts house, ask about boxes of clamps. Autozone had a box for the same price as the blister pack with only a couple.

Now for breakfast, and back to body work. I spent $10 on the sheet steel, and $16 on the big tubes of JB weld two repairs ago. This one will finish up both.

Today I cut out the rest of the rust, and ground the metal clean. I went underneath, and wire brushed everything as good as I could, without pulling the suspension system out of the way. I bought a can of Rust-oleum Rust Reformer. It is supposed to convert rust into a paintable surface. I gave it a coat before putting the patch on, and a coat after. (Tomorrow it gets a 3rd coat, and then I will top it off with silver.)

I then put the JB Weld on, and screwed down the patches.

My cat seems to approve the job I did.

Next I will be sanding, patching and painting the current bolt holes to prevent any rust from happening in those locations. and drill the holes in the floor for the power cables. Then comes the vapor barrier, wood base and carpet. Just over 5 months to complete the job!

Today I had an emergency plumbing job. (Frozen faucet) I was able to make enough to cover a bill, and find out details on how to build the battery box. The guys at Springfield Battery Outfitters gave me a speck sheet, and showed me the selection of accessories available. They will custom build cables for the cost of materials. Since the batteries will be for a Solar application, they will wave the core fees. (About $70 with on some suppliers!) That will cover the cost of 2 Gauge cables!

My first box will hold two T-105 6V deep cycle batteries. ($260) The box will be 16 X 18 X 12 inches tall, unfinished, and will be behind the wheel well of my van. I will line it with my radiant barrier insulation sheeting, with a top layer of inner tube rubber. The lid will fit snug enough to form a top seal. The bottom will have two 3/4 pvc pipes venting under the van. One will have an elbow to funnel air into the pipe to force ventilation. I will post pictures of this when built.

When I got home I removed the metal patch on my back door installed by the PO. It would have worked if he had painted it properly. I will have to use a heavier metal lining and JB weld it to the door skin and paint it. By the looks of things, he backed into something and partially drove the spare tire holder through the door skin. Another 4 hour repair all told. I have to buy about $10 worth of sheet steel to do this patch, and some more JB Weld. At the same time I can patch the holes in the floor from the seats, and paint them to keep rust from happening.

That will give you a respectable 450ah of power. Nice!
Say hi to Agent 99 for me

dvdchris said:

That will give you a respectable 450ah of power. Nice!

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At 12 volts it gives you only 225ah.

The door patch is complete. The radiant barrier insulation has been ordered
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100661...talogId=10053&productId=100661257&R=100661257
and will be here in about a week. Once it is in, I can lay the wood base, and start building the boxes and shelving. Meanwhile, I am replacing my stationary front seats with the back pedestal swivel recliners. That way I will be able to turn around the seats and use them also.

I am also talking with Northern AZ Wind & Sun outlining the exact set up needed. This website has it all, including a power spreadsheet to design the perfect system for you.

http://www.solar-electric.com/rvmakitwi280.html

Just taking my time and doing it right the first time.

I mounted the tire carrier on the back door. Once the tire is in place, it will cover any vent if I decide to put one on there. I used Silicone and Saran Wrap to build up the rubber on my wing window seals. (Cover the window with Saran Wrap, clean the seals and put the silicone on them. Gently close the windows 99% of the way. Remove the wrap in a few hours.

Someone responded to an item on Craigslist. They were wanting me to hold an item for them for a week until they got paid. In talking to him, (An OTR Trucker) I found out he had a Coleman cooler. TRADE! That should take care of my refrigeration problem.

As I was outlining the shelves and cabinets, I found a better way to mount the batteries. I found an area that is 13"W X 37 1/2"L. I can put a metal battery box under the floorboards of the van, and access it from inside by cutting a hole. There is enough room to line it with wood and an old truck inner tube. If I make it 11 1/2" tall, that is enough room for four batteries in case I want to expand my capacity. The savings on the fridge can pay for the custom steel box. ($90) By cutting things right, I will have the lid covered with rubber, and air tight. It will vent under the van.

Meanwhile I mounted a swivel recliner in the passenger seat, and now I have another permanent chair without costing me any space.

I will post pictures of the battery box when installed.

Great thread! Is that a compresser fridge or a thermo electric...gotta be carefuil with the latter and storing actual food.

That is just a cheap electric cooler. I just need something to get by with at first. Once I figure out what I will be keeping, I might buy that Sears $159 unit, and put in an extra set of batteries.

This week I pulled all the carpet and chairs out of the van. Yesterday I started installing the radiant barrier. I completed the front 1/3, and cut the hole for the battery box. Until that is installed, I will have a piece of plywood covering the hole.

Tomorrow I will finish the radiant barrier, and put down a layer of Advantek 1/2" flooring. Once the flooring is in I can start the cabinets. Once the cabinets are outlined, I can loosely lay the carpet. Next month I will be able to buy the steel battery box, and put it in. It will be big enough to hold four 6 volt batteries, so room to upgrade.

Looks great!

Your spare tire mount reminded me of idea: Mount a vent behind the spare tire mount. It will be hidden from view for stealth and security.

spd2918 said:

Looks great!

Your spare tire mount reminded me of idea: Mount a vent behind the spare tire mount. It will be hidden from view for stealth and security.

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A vent or a small AC for when I have access to the grid. Paint the grill black.