Yeti w ice or junk ice chest ?

[PlmrPaulie*]

I've found that my daily chore of swapping out my 2 ice blocks, between Iceco freezer and my sportsman's cooler have, in effect given me the full benefits of having a refridgerator and a freezer working well for food storage in my Suburban. I've never bought ice, while doing this and it's been effective, even while staying in the desert in Arizona during hot temperatures.

 

[afblangley]

Choosing between minimalist cooling in vehicle :
Seems any kind of 24 hr fridge is ( is impractical ) dependent on much more electricity than I will have until i invest in high price inverter and bank of lithium plus solar panels -this is a complex decision I’m not ready to make until the way is clearer.
Therefore a secondary choice is what choices ???
1 some kind of Coleman fridge which works off engine on. Via cigarette lighter
2 some kind of superior insulated ( styrofoam seems too bulky and conspicuous in a Camry ) ice chest!!
If yeti versus cheap chest yields an extra day of cooling - That seems worth it.
I hope I’m not being disrespectful here with that idea. I’m in overwhelming circumstance, and just barely holding my head above water. If that helps explain my going over the same stuff multiple times. No disrespect Intended .

3 am I overlooking a third option? Make the case please

Thank you to all

I would not encourage anyone to spend above their comfort level. That said, I think you may be over estimating the expenditure of time, money and knowledge needed for a 12V compressor cooler setup.

Solar is not required. I have a mid sized system that powers a fridge, induction cooktop, and convection microwave. Given vehicular and shore recharging options, solar is not worth the increased complexity, lost aesthetics, and reqired roof space to me.

The simplest 12V setup requires only two components: power station and cooler. 12V compressor coolers can be bought on Amazon for less than $200. A power station capable of running it for 24+ hours can cost less than $250*. These coolers are insulated, so it can take hours (depending on ambient conditions) for the temperature to drop significantly in the absence of power. These coolers also have a drain plug, so ice can be put in it to extend the time even further.

I have a 60L Bodega, typically set at 35F, it could take 12+ hours for it to rise 20 degrees when the ambient temperature is 75F. I’ve inadvertently tested this a few times, discovering my cooler was off because my power station shut down**.

Option 1 you mentioned sounds like a thermoelectric cooler. A few years ago, compressor coolers were $500+. Unwilling to spend that much money, I bought a thermoelectric cooler for $125. They have a limited ability to cool (or heat), capable of maintaining a temperature of only 30-40F below ambient. In addition, it requires constant power (it doesn’t cycle) so the power consumption is greater than compressor coolers. I was dissatisfied with mine. Even when driving, it was unable to keep drinks refreshingly cold. I didn’t have a power station, so when parked (and therefore unplugged from the car) drinks quickly went from moderately chilled to icky tasting warm. Needless to say, using it to keep food was unsafe. At todays prices, there is no reason to buy a thermoelectric cooler.

I don’t understand the appeal of option 2. I have no experience with high quality ice chests like Yeti. Since they cost as much as compressor coolers, I will likely never use one. I’d love to play around with the uber portable battery powered compressor coolers like LiON. But it's not very cost effective, yet...

You inquired about a 3rd option. If money is really tight, consider buying a compressor cooler and power it via the cigarette port when driving and ice in the absence of power. You will probably discover that you need ice less frequently than you think. You will probably discover that you need a power station sooner than you think.

I did not realize how useful having portable electricity is. Apart from its use in the van, I’ve used it for powering tools, vacuums, electronics on the beach, in the park, at the laundromat. I use it in the house and in the yard instead of running an extension cord. Even if/when I have a permanently installed electrical system in the van, I will always have a power station. Now that I’m used to the utility and flexibility it affords, there’s no going back.

Here’s an article comparing the 3 types of coolers.
https://www.readysetoffroad.com/cooler-thermoelectric-cooler-12v-fridge-freezer-which-one-is-best/

* Amazon has a $50 off sale on one of the best small power stations on the market right now, the newly released Bluetti EB3A. Here’s a review and Amazon’s link.


https://www.amazon.com/BLUETTI-Port...1656709903&sprefix=bluetti+eb3a,aps,94&sr=8-3

** EcoFlow power stations are known to shut down if there’s no draw for a period of time (I think its 15 or 30 minutes). Fridges only uses power when the compressor is running and the frequency of cycling is a function of the ambient and set temperatures. At sub 80F ambient with thermostat set to 30 something, it may not cycle enough to keep the power station on. My solution is to lower the thermostat (under 32F) such that it triggers the power station frequently enough to keep it on.

 

[tx2sturgis]

FYI. Draw your own conclusions

Actually I have and from more than 10 years of using 2 Yetis and another high performance Igloo Sportsman rotomolded cooler (similar to Yeti) and around 40 years of using all the other options.

Yeti, Orca, Engle, etc are worth the extra money you spend IF you need an good quality ice chest AND you need something that will stand up to abuse way above normal wear and tear. Fishermen, hunters, ranchers, construction workers, truck drivers (me), oil field workers etc all know and use Yetis and the equivalent competitors.

If you are just going to the park with the kiddos for a 4th of July picnic, then NO you don't need a Yeti for that.

All due respect to the person who posted the video...but that man and that kid know NOTHING about it, other than having a bandsaw to cut it open...which was cool.

They seem to think the rubber T-handles are what make the cooler bear-proof. Did they not notice the padlock holes on the front corners? You insert a good quality padlock in each hole, lock it, and a bear will NOT be able to open the cooler. They had no clue. And what does a 10 year old kid know about super heavy duty rugged use at an oil rig or on the back of a welder's portable welding rig?

I'm guessing...nothing.

They do keep ice colder, longer, but they also stand up to decades of hard use. The hinges wont break. The latches keep working. If you lose the stopper you can still get one for it 15 years later. I weigh 230 pounds and I can literally stand on a Yeti and jump on it...no damage AT ALL.

I'm NOT saying that they are the solution for full timers as opposed to a 12v compressor fridge. I have one of those also. But will it last much past about 5 years of daily use?

Probably not. But a Yeti will.

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

......You insert a good quality padlock in each hole, lock it, and a bear will NOT be able to open the cooler.....

I did not see Yeti as being certified bear resistant on the Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee list:
https://igbconline.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/220120_Certified_Products_List.pdf
They do advertise that they are IGBC certified.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Well a grizzly bear might be able to smash it open even with the padlocks...they can certainly do a LOT of damage...but I'm thinking that your average sized black bears might have some trouble getting into a Yeti with a couple of padlocks. Padlocks or bolts and nuts as specified in that list you provided. The point is the kiddo and pops making videos about $30 coolers vs $300 coolers should know this.

And I guess I should have specified which type of bear I think will be deterred by the padlocks. In either case, the Yeti or any other bear resistant cooler you can buy at the local outdoor supply or hardware store will need to have the padlocks (or bolts) in use.

Me?

Well I don't usually camp in a tent in grizzly bear country (and I never will) but I have been awakened by black bears rummaging thru nearby trash cans and dumpsters when I was camping in Wyoming a few years ago. That's enough to remind me to bring the damn cooler inside the RV at night.... I'll let them test somebody else's Yeti!

 

[tx2sturgis]

Oh here we go!

Yeti 1

Grizzly 0

 

[tx2sturgis]

Actually I'm about to order my third Yeti....the nice new Yellow one.

It's a 45, my other 2 tan colored Yetis are the 25 from when I had limited cabin space in the semi truck I was driving, and then when I had a condo-sleeper truck with more floor space, I bought a 35, a bit more room in the box plus slots for a divider. Both coolers are well-used but still in very good condition.

Now days, I'm retired and I sometimes need a bit larger cooler than the 35, but sometimes I just don't need my 55 size, which is not a Yeti...but its just as well made and durable as a Yeti...rotomolded and very heavy even when empty. Its an Igloo Sportsman 55...and it fits perfectly in the back of my pickup camper shell, between the cot and the tailgate.

And the point is? Well the point is that quality does cost a bit more, but the end result is you get a nice long lasting product that you don't have to 'patch up' with foam boards and duct tape.

Just sayin.

 

[CoyoteG]

What I have is a medium sized cheap ice chest.
Within this cheap ice chest that I already own I had several pieces of pink foam board, leftover, that I was able to do a double layer of one inch, tape it all together and construct a tight fitting lid for the ice chest inside the ice chest.
I owned all of the ingredients. So no right now costs.
It kept beer cold longer than the Yeti or Orca, to the tune of nine days in a vehicle, mostly in the shade in eastern Montana between summer and fall. Not opened for nine days.
If I ever need a larger high performance cooler, I’ll just make it for a fraction of the cost.
And chances are, no one will try to steal it.
Another thing is I lined it with some good thick plastic and keep the whole thing covered with a blanket or sleeping bag.

 

[user 16179]

I did not see Yeti as being certified bear resistant on the Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee list:
https://igbconline.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/220120_Certified_Products_List.pdf
They do advertise that they are IGBC certified.

Perhaps you should have used the search function on the PDF your link takes you to. You would have seen 15+ Yeti coolers with Model Numbers and individual Certification numbers.

 

[Tony's Dream]

I just finished a 12 day trip with temps in the 60-75 range during the first 7 days and 70-100 the last 5 days. I I have a Yeti Tundra 35 cooler. I use both blocks and cube during my travel. I buy a block and then pack it in cubes. As the block melts I add cubes until I have room to replace the block. During the 12 days I used two blocks and 3 5 lb bags. Everything went fine.

​

 

[rruff]

I've found that my daily chore of swapping out my 2 ice blocks, between Iceco freezer and my sportsman's cooler have, in effect given me the full benefits of having a refridgerator and a freezer working well for food storage in my Suburban. I've never bought ice, while doing this and it's been effective, even while staying in the desert in Arizona during hot temperatures.

Have you measured energy consumption?

 

[user 32232]

Actually I'm about to order my third Yeti....the nice new Yellow one.

It's a 45, my other 2 tan colored Yetis are the 25 from when I had limited cabin space in the semi truck I was driving, and then when I had a condo-sleeper truck with more floor space, I bought a 35, a bit more room in the box plus slots for a divider. Both coolers are well-used but still in very good condition.

Now days, I'm retired and I sometimes need a bit larger cooler than the 35, but sometimes I just don't need my 55 size, which is not a Yeti...but its just as well made and durable as a Yeti...rotomolded and very heavy even when empty. Its an Igloo Sportsman 55...and it fits perfectly in the back of my pickup camper shell, between the cot and the tailgate.

And the point is? Well the point is that quality does cost a bit more, but the end result is you get a nice long lasting product that you don't have to 'patch up' with foam boards and duct tape.

Just sayin.

I have zero experience with Yeti, mainly cuz I'm a cheap *******. But I've beat all hell out my Rtic coolers, and they're still holding up well. They sell replacement parts, too, although I haven't needed any yet.
I know that Yetis are probably of the highest quality, but if memory serves the Yeti 20 qt hard cooler was around $250. The RTIC 20 qt cooler was nearly half that, so I was able to get two of them.
I'm assuming they both hold a block of ice for similar periods. Your point about build quality is a valid one - I've checked out the Yetis in-store, and I can't really see much difference between them and the Rtics.
All I know is that either are a HUGE improvement over the cooler I had before

 

[tx2sturgis]

Hey, thanks for the note on Rtic coolers.

There are a LOT of Yeti-type coolers on the market now...I can't even name them all...Lifetime and Ozark Trail, Rtic, Pelican, Igloo Sportsman, Engle, Orca, etc etc etc.

They are all made in a similar manner: Heavy roto-molded plastic, thick stainless steel hinges, sturdy handles, and good quality latches. These coolers are all very heavy and well-built compared to the typical $30-$50 budget coolers that you can find in any discount or big box store.

Any of them will be pricey, usually more than $150-$200 and well worth it, IF you NEED a sturdy, well made, long lasting ice chest.

Of course if you dont actually NEED one then the price will seem too high.

 

[Tony's Dream]

I have seen utube videos where people have taken the cheaper coolers and added spray foam to help insulat them. These coolers rely on doubled sided plastic walls (air space between the two walls) to insulate the cooler. They drilled holes throughout the outer layer of a ice chest then used window spray foam (minimual expanding foam) to fill the space. Don't use the maximum expanding foam because it will distort the sides and lid making closing them impossible.

 

[vanvanvanvan123]

Actually I'm about to order my third Yeti....the nice new Yellow one.

It's a 45, my other 2 tan colored Yetis are the 25 from when I had limited cabin space in the semi truck I was driving, and then when I had a condo-sleeper truck with more floor space, I bought a 35, a bit more room in the box plus slots for a divider. Both coolers are well-used but still in very good condition.

Now days, I'm retired and I sometimes need a bit larger cooler than the 35, but sometimes I just don't need my 55 size, which is not a Yeti...but its just as well made and durable as a Yeti...rotomolded and very heavy even when empty. Its an Igloo Sportsman 55...and it fits perfectly in the back of my pickup camper shell, between the cot and the tailgate.

And the point is? Well the point is that quality does cost a bit more, but the end result is you get a nice long lasting product that you don't have to 'patch up' with foam boards and duct tape.

Just sayin.

My friend said I wasted my money today ( I bought a yeti today ) he claims he can get same thing for $200 less !

 

[JohnnyM]

Here's something I wonder about every time I drain the water out of my cooler. If my only concern is keeping the stuff in the cooler as cold as possible for as long as possible, am I better off draining the water regularly or leaving it in there with the ice and letting it fill up halfway or so? Obviously if you're going down the road you need to get the water outta there so it won't slosh around, but what if you're sitting still and you don't have to worry about sloshing or keeping some of the refrigerated food dry? Does your ice have to do more work if it's dry or if it's floating in cold water?

My current ice chest is an RTIC 65 with two good, no-leak drain plugs so I can keep as much or as little water as I want in the cooler and I don't have to worry about picking the cooler up or moving it to drain it. I just drain it in place, using a long funnel, right out the side door of my van.

So you might say it's a controlled experiment. I've eliminated all the variables, and my only question is which is cooler, ice or ice water?

Whaddya think?

Johnny

 

[rruff]

If my only concern is keeping the stuff in the cooler as cold as possible for as long as possible, am I better off draining the water regularly or leaving it in there with the ice and letting it fill up halfway or so?

Leave the water in if it isn't bothering anything. It's still thermal mass at a low temperature and it will keep the contents from warming up as fast.

 

[tx2sturgis]

My friend said I wasted my money today ( I bought a yeti today ) he claims he can get same thing for $200 less !

But your friend would miss out on a Yeti collection like yours and mine!

My spiffy new Yellow Yeti arrived today, so I took a picture of it stacked on the shipping box next to my two older Yetis, the 25 and the 35 that I have been using for years. They are both still in good condition, but I wanted a bit larger size in the 45, and you can see it fits perfectly in the pickup between the cot and the tailgate. (pay no attention to the disorganized interior of the pickup...I don't know HOW that happened!)

I made a thin plastic divider that fits in the cooler's middle groove, but I will be ordering a sturdy one (that's also a cutting board) from Yeti when they are back in stock.

 

[user 32232]

 

[bagabum]

I would not encourage anyone to spend above their comfort level. That said, I think you may be over estimating the expenditure of time, money and knowledge needed for a 12V compressor cooler setup.

Solar is not required. I have a mid sized system that powers a fridge, induction cooktop, and convection microwave. Given vehicular and shore recharging options, solar is not worth the increased complexity, lost aesthetics, and reqired roof space to me.

The simplest 12V setup requires only two components: power station and cooler. 12V compressor coolers can be bought on Amazon for less than $200. A power station capable of running it for 24+ hours can cost less than $250*. These coolers are insulated, so it can take hours (depending on ambient conditions) for the temperature to drop significantly in the absence of power. These coolers also have a drain plug, so ice can be put in it to extend the time even further.

I have a 60L Bodega, typically set at 35F, it could take 12+ hours for it to rise 20 degrees when the ambient temperature is 75F. I’ve inadvertently tested this a few times, discovering my cooler was off because my power station shut down**.

Option 1 you mentioned sounds like a thermoelectric cooler. A few years ago, compressor coolers were $500+. Unwilling to spend that much money, I bought a thermoelectric cooler for $125. They have a limited ability to cool (or heat), capable of maintaining a temperature of only 30-40F below ambient. In addition, it requires constant power (it doesn’t cycle) so the power consumption is greater than compressor coolers. I was dissatisfied with mine. Even when driving, it was unable to keep drinks refreshingly cold. I didn’t have a power station, so when parked (and therefore unplugged from the car) drinks quickly went from moderately chilled to icky tasting warm. Needless to say, using it to keep food was unsafe. At todays prices, there is no reason to buy a thermoelectric cooler.

I don’t understand the appeal of option 2. I have no experience with high quality ice chests like Yeti. Since they cost as much as compressor coolers, I will likely never use one. I’d love to play around with the uber portable battery powered compressor coolers like LiON. But it's not very cost effective, yet...

You inquired about a 3rd option. If money is really tight, consider buying a compressor cooler and power it via the cigarette port when driving and ice in the absence of power. You will probably discover that you need ice less frequently than you think. You will probably discover that you need a power station sooner than you think.

I did not realize how useful having portable electricity is. Apart from its use in the van, I’ve used it for powering tools, vacuums, electronics on the beach, in the park, at the laundromat. I use it in the house and in the yard instead of running an extension cord. Even if/when I have a permanently installed electrical system in the van, I will always have a power station. Now that I’m used to the utility and flexibility it affords, there’s no going back.

Here’s an article comparing the 3 types of coolers.
https://www.readysetoffroad.com/cooler-thermoelectric-cooler-12v-fridge-freezer-which-one-is-best/

* Amazon has a $50 off sale on one of the best small power stations on the market right now, the newly released Bluetti EB3A. Here’s a review and Amazon’s link.


https://www.amazon.com/BLUETTI-Portable-Recharge-Generator-Optional/dp/B09WW3CTF4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3MX6J8YR4N7RE&keywords=BLUETTI+EB3A&qid=1656709903&sprefix=bluetti+eb3a,aps,94&sr=8-3

** EcoFlow power stations are known to shut down if there’s no draw for a period of time (I think its 15 or 30 minutes). Fridges only uses power when the compressor is running and the frequency of cycling is a function of the ambient and set temperatures. At sub 80F ambient with thermostat set to 30 something, it may not cycle enough to keep the power station on. My solution is to lower the thermostat (under 32F) such that it triggers the power station frequently enough to keep it on.

Or purchase a little 2 watt fan and let it run to satisfy the no current trip.