Winter approaching - any temporary make-shift insulation ideas?

[brianmonkey]

So I am in my 95 Ford E-150. It is a conversion van with lots of windows. I just tinted them and I have reflectix in the windows mostly for privacy at the moment. I have not had the chance to build / convert it into much of anything at the moment. I simply sleep on the floor of the van and organize my stuff the best I can. I am hoping within a week or so to do what I can to make it more livable and help me get through the winter here in new york. I would leave the northeast but there is a lot of work here I am doing that I love, so I am here for now.
 

I am looking for a way to insulate it as much as I can, while I am currently living in it.
Therefore, any ideas for a temporary / semi effective way to insulate "for now"? I have heard of things like using tarps, moving blankets etc. For heating, I have a wave 3 heater but haven't used it.

Maybe some folks with experience can help me out with all of these scrambled ideas!

Thank you!

B

 

[John61CT]

cardboard even newspapers, yes moving blankets, carpet, foam of course, curtain offcuts, whatever.

Buy the stuff your going to use, cut it rough bigger than it will be finished

start making your final window coverings early

 

[Minivanmotoman]

Harbor freight moving blankets on sale and with discount coupon are cheap. Cut cheap 1-2" styrofoam to fit windows to reduce heat/ cold transfer. Or even full sheets on floors, wall and ceiling. Hang blankets to reduce air movement and heat loss. Cheap and effective. Make as airtight as possible. Think play house style like kids make. Air gap in between foam and blankets slows down heat loss process yet easily removed when needed. For quick, fast and cheap. See YouTube videos for proper insulation job when you have the time.

 

[brianmonkey]

Thank you that gives me a lot of good ideas.

 

[WalkaboutTed]

On my van, the insulation on the sliding door and rear doors is minimal. The cold radiates off the steel doors and is especially bothersome when it is right behind my head. I have some cheap Costco down throw blankets and attach them to the doors with neodymium magnets. It helps a lot. I sleep with a hat in the cold, but my puppy is not a big eater. Consequently, she is thin and not very cold tolerant. I also wrap one of those blankets around her crate when she goes in for the night. Otherwise she will whimper, with the cold, pitifully all night. Can't say I blame her. I prefer not to sleep with the dog, so wrapping her crate works well.

The throws block the windows, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. If your rig won't work with magnets, I imagine you could use industrial strength Velcro to attach insulation materials to the surfaces you need insulated.

I'm not very cold tolerant either. People ask me why I'm so bundled up all the time, I look like the Pillsbury doughboy with my puffy jacket. I don't worry about how I look while bundled up like I'm in the Arctic when it's 50F.
Stay warm,
Ted

 

[John61CT]

Give that good dog a floppy HW bottle wrapped up in a cloth bag of some sort.

 

[UmpquaTim]

I have a 95 Ford E-350 passenger van and I'm going with a different approach.  I ordered a box of black 3/8 inch interlocking EVA rubber floor tiles which just arrived yesterday.  I've cut templates for each window and plan to cut custom window inserts.  The EVA foam is a pretty good insulator (I don't know the R value but I'm estimating around 4), and my hope is that it will work well in both summer and winter.  I'll decide later if adhering reflectix to the inserts makes sense for me or not.  I'll let you know how happens!

Storage could be an issue for some as these tiles don't roll up. For me, though, the plan is to stow the two larger panels under my mattress when not in use. The remaining tiles can be wedged most anywhere.

-Tim

 

[John61CT]

Polyiso has the highest R-value per inch of any other available insulation, and gets better per inch as you get past 3-4" thicknesses.

At 3/8 inch R-value probably around 1.5-2

EVA is not even used as insulation afaict, so haven't seen an R-value rating at all.

So definitely better than Reflectix, which is barely better than nothing, R=0.

But don't expect too much, unless you're following the 60-70's anyway.

And R-value of the sheet material used is a relatively insignificant factor as to how well a space is actually insulated in the real world.

My goal is ability to be very thrifty with fuel use while camping with kids in ski area parking lots, just so it's clear where I'm coming from.

 

[brianmonkey]

These are great ideas and counter arguments! I put some of that interlocking rubber tiles down on the floor plus a rug. there is also plywood on the floor under it all. Just reflectix on the wondows right now mainly for privacy. They do seem to help a bit though because when they are down it is a lot colder. I have mot really had time to figure out how to properly cover the windows yet.

 

[UmpquaTim]

These are great ideas and counter arguments! I put some of that interlocking rubber tiles down on the floor plus a rug. there is also plywood on the floor under it all. Just reflectix on the wondows right now mainly for privacy. They do seem to help a bit though because when they are down it is a lot colder. I have mot really had time to figure out how to properly cover the windows yet.

Not that it really matters I suppose, but if your observation is that reflectix provides an insulation benefit, what's likely happening is that you're radiating your body heat back into the van vs. actually keeping the cold out.   If your in the van, why it works doesn't really matter.  But if you are away from your van, that reflectix might not do anything to keep the cold out.  

Cheers,

T

 

[UmpquaTim]

Polyiso has the highest R-value per inch of any other available insulation, and gets better per inch as you get past 3-4" thicknesses.

At 3/8 inch R-value probably around 1.5-2

EVA is not even used as insulation afaict, so haven't seen an R-value rating at all.

So definitely better than Reflectix, which is barely better than nothing, R=0.

But don't expect too much, unless you're following the 60-70's anyway.

And R-value of the sheet material used is a relatively insignificant factor as to how well a space is actually insulated in the real world.

My goal is ability to be very thrifty with fuel use while camping with kids in ski area parking lots, just so it's clear where I'm coming from.

Yeah, you're probably right on the R value.  I've seen estimates all over the place but you could be spot on.  Sadly, I don't have many options for window coverings as cargo blankets haven't performed that well.  

I'm just trying to get everything squared away before heading from Southern Oregon to the RTR this year.  While it's likely nice there, I'll be hitting some colder temps enroute in January.  Anyway, back to cutting foam

 

[John61CT]

Anything that slows down heat escaping counts, every bit helps.

Get a cheap little infrared temp gum and from outside on a very cold day with a Mr Buddy running inside, you can spot the areas that need most attention.

Even thermal imaging tech is getting very cheap.

 

[MrAlvinDude]

I think that you will find, that anything, compared to nothing, will make a noticeable difference.  
For one reason, because that first 1/8th of insulation will make much more difference than that last 1/8th of insulation.

So anything you can get your hands on (at first), and install, will make a difference.


Once you get past that first attempt, and find that you need more - then the effect of your efforts will start to change, and thus it will become more important to use things that have better insulation properties (a known higher R value).


But until you find that you need "more and better", until then, anything will improve your ability to keep warmer.



I also think that anything that will lower the rate of condensation showing up on the inside (or your outmost (van) skin),  will make a noticeable difference in perceived heat/cold in your van.
Because, as the humidity level increases in your van, the colder it will feel to you. The measurable temperature might not change much, but your perceived sense of cold/warm will.  Simply because humid air can absorb more heat, whenever it gets close to your skin.



Here is a very minimalist approach, to insulating a van, that you might find inspiring

 

[John61CT]

Idea for best window covering:

2-part pourable urethane foam

mix (quickly) like epoxy and pour within a rigid mold, coated with plastic sheeting and or silicone spray release agent

It (quickly!) expands to fill any shape, higher densities expand less and insulates better, so even under 1" would make a huge difference, and also creates a tough outer skin, so no need to cover it unless you want to. Can add tint, black would be best IMO.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Urethane-Foam-Density-Quart/dp/B007V231P6

Needs to be done with everything at 70+° and using protective gloves goggles, old clothes.

Have to carefully measure, less is OK can always do another later but too much goes everywhere

Carefully mask off any areas, hard to remove after it sets (2-5 minutes max)

Maybe coroplast cut to shape would be enough to act as the inner mold side, but plywood would be stiffer to get a nice flat surface.

Keep the upper edge open to allow for overage, otherwise could shatter the glass.

After set, trim the edges, leaving enough outside edge to glue velcro or use super-magnets to hold in place.

 

[frater secessus]

I was able to find both used and new foam panels on craigslist for about 1/3rd their normal price.

 

[earthling]

On my van, the insulation on the sliding door and rear doors is minimal. The cold radiates off the steel doors and is especially bothersome when it is right behind my head.  I have some cheap Costco down throw blankets and attach them to the doors with neodymium magnets.  It helps a lot. I sleep with a hat in the cold, but my puppy is not a big eater. Consequently, she is thin and not very cold tolerant.  I also wrap one of those blankets around her crate when she goes in for the night.  Otherwise she will whimper, with the cold, pitifully all night.  Can't say I blame her.  I prefer not to sleep with the dog, so wrapping her crate works well.

The throws block the windows, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.  If your rig won't work with magnets, I imagine you could use industrial strength Velcro to attach insulation materials to the surfaces you need insulated.

I'm not very cold tolerant either. People ask me why I'm so bundled up all the time, I look like the Pillsbury doughboy with my puffy jacket.  I don't worry about how I look while bundled up like I'm in the Arctic when it's 50F.
Stay warm,
Ted

Ted, with all due respect, dogs have a mentality of a 4y/o child and they certainly DESERVE the comfort of another warm body in the cold...especially a "puppy that whimpers all night" and most dogs have bigger appetites in the winter months... maybe her being thin, is a sign of something else.  Just sayin.

 

[skyl4rk]

This video shows an insulated cardboard box for sleeping in cold weather. It is also very stealthy. "I'm free now, it's party time!"

 

[Capricci]

Well, if your'e just sleeping on the floor anyway and aren't using the heater yet, perhaps you could do a space-within-a-space design. I was in an unheated garage for awhile and hung curtains from the ceiling with nails to enclose just the bed space. This made a huge difference somehow. Could you deploy a small pop up tent just at night? Or hang a blanket fort somehow?

 

[Capricci]

Here's a video with a very simple pod bed madr out of card board. Bulky, but I think this would work well for any one just wanting to get by till they can do their tailored build. Youtuber channel name is Driftwood george. Video is titled Introducing my cocoon sleeping pod!  

 

[breeze]

Polyester microfiber hoodies (after Kohl's 20% discounts) are about $30 each shipped. For really colder, polyester pants and shirts (warm) long underwear for less than $10 shipped. They are like a doobie, they make hard times go better :-o

Wear good Bates boots too: not necessarily the warm insulated boots (i.e. - Uninsulated boots will do much better than tennis shoes.) Army light weight infantry boots w/high tech materials are excellent, if they fit. I get 2 pairs so I always have a dry pair and get the (foot doctor) insoles that cost about $60 each. They last a long time.