When to replace starter battery in hot, harsh, desert conditions-with what?

[WalkaboutTed]

Considering that I spend a fair amount of time in AZ/NM at temps at or above 100F (often above 110F), how frequently should I replace my cargo van battery, and with what?

Batteries out here in the hot desert die prematurely. They've usually died after a couple summers and I am now on summer #3. The vehicle also sits for weeks at a time without starting.  It's been many moons since I had a big 8 cylinder engine and now that I'm full-timing and pulling the trailer, I want to be proactive as I spend up to three months away from major metropolitan areas where I could get a decent battery on short notice.

Theoretically, the van came with a "80 ah Heavy Duty Marine" battery, but I looked at it and did the #s and it looks like 66ah sealed (not agm) automotive battery. I don't know how they come up with the marine battery name.

I know I want to replace it with a deep cycle battery.  Preferably AGM as I'm a lazy ass and will never get around to checking it.  I can't say that money is no object, but I do realize that a AGM deep cycle/marine battery will cost a pretty penny compared to a automotive battery.

Recommendations? Thanks,
Ted

 

[Moxadox]

Is there a reason not to go with lithium?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Trebor English]

How do you intend to use it?  Is it just used for starting?  When it "sits for weeks at a time without starting" do you disconnect it or does it slowly discharge keeping computers idling and turning on the dome light?    

I have just one battery so my starter battery runs the fridge and gets solar charged.  

For ordinary starter service an ordinary "maintenance free" battery will probably best survive the "never get around to checking it" at a low cost.  My flooded deep cycle battery uses water so in the never check realm it would have been dead in 6 months.  AGM can relieve you of more money.  

You can check the battery you have.  Sometimes "sealed" batteries really don't have the caps glued down.  If the hydrometer shows a seriously low cell that could be a good reason to replace it.  If the voltage drops while cranking more than it used to or drops to 9 volts that could be reason to replace it.  

You could get a new starter battery and put it next to your house battery.  With just a diode it can get charged to 13.7 when your house battery gets to 14.4.  With no other use than a daily dose of 13.7 it should last a very long time and be right at hand when you need it.  

With a serious house battery you can jump start when the starter battery dies.  If you already have the cable installed to do alternator charging then you only need to verify the process to do that.  Then you have less need for a spare.

 

[Trebor English]

Is there a reason not to go with lithium?

Lithium batteries generally have a battery management system to keep them from getting over charged.  When this has been done with a disconnect relay then, while the engine is running, the battery has been disconnected.  The alternator can then fry everything including its own diodes.  Lithium can be used but make sure that something turns off the alternator field current before.

 

[WalkaboutTed]

"How do you intend to use it? Is it just used for starting? When it "sits for weeks at a time without starting" do you disconnect it or does it slowly discharge keeping computers idling and turning on the dome light?"

The latter

"You can check the battery you have. Sometimes "sealed" batteries really don't have the caps glued down. If the hydrometer shows a seriously low cell that could be a good reason to replace it. If the voltage drops while cranking more than it used to or drops to 9 volts that could be reason to replace it. "

Lazy ass here. if it doesn't work, I replace it.

"With a serious house battery you can jump start when the starter battery dies. If you already have the cable installed to do alternator charging then you only need to verify the process to do that. Then you have less need for a spare."

I want to avoid having to do that-old woman lazy ass here. I really don't want to repeatedly have to jump a battery and deal with the computers going down. That's a major hassle for a newer vehicle. And I don't want to have to drive for hours to get a new battery. For example, tomorrow I'll be camping in the Gila National Forest, 80 miles from Las Cruces (where I can get a good battery, I assume). Half of that is twisty mountain roads. I would prefer to get a new battery proactively and not worry about it for 2-3 years.

Unless there's a 12v trickle charger that I can run from my solar battery bank (300ah) to the car cigarette lighter outlet.. I've looked and haven't been able to find anything like that. And I don't want to use an inverter on my solar bank to run a trickle charger. If it ain't easy, it ain't gonna be done. I'm not handy (or rather, I choose not to be handy=lazy ass).
Ted

 

[B and C]

got answered before my slow post.

 

[B and C]

Seems you are lazier than me and that takes some doing

Buy your new battery every 2-3 years and have peace of mind. Sealed lead acid starting battery gets my vote. Cheapest option and seems to be what you are using already.

 

[Trebor English]

Sometimes when you buy a brand new thing it breaks.  Replacing your starter battery annually will improve the odds but you could still have a failure.  

Knowing how to jump start does not mean "repeatedly have to jump a battery and deal with the computers going down."  It doesn't even mean doing it once.  

Having a spare tire makes it so the AAA guy can change it.  If you don't have one, you ensure that you will never have to put it on.

Have someone on call.

 

[WalkaboutTed]

No phone service where I'll be and it is more than 100 feet from a maintained road (AAA and the like won't come and help, even if I could call).

Guess I'll get a new battery before next summer if the current one lasts through this one. I was hoping that there was one that would last longer under such conditions. And deep cycle/marine would be good as my vehicle has the built-in 400w inverter and two outlets. I do use it sometimes.
Ted

 

[RVTravel]

When my starter battery started hesitating before starting, it was about 2 weeks before dead. That was driving maybe 20 miles per day with at least 2 startups per day going to and from work.

 

[Weight]

If you are worried about a three year old starter battery in Arizona, go to walmart and get whatever size maintenance free lead acid starter battery that fits. Not AGM. Depend on the warranty for piece of mind. Your house bank is a different question.

 

[John61CT]

Plain flooded is most robust, good quality Deka, Crown, Superior, US Battery, but don't spend a whole lot.

Get a little 50W panel to keep it topped up when sitting. SC **must** be adjustable so you can just Float it, never Absorb unless you start deep cycling.

But you said Starter use only, right?

Just need to keep the water topped up, will go for years.

Maybe a little daytime fan to help keep it cool?

 

[WalkaboutTed]

Thanks folks! Haven't decided what I'll do yet, but plenty of food for thought here.
Ted

 

[Minivanmotoman]

If you wired your starter battery to your solar/ battery array, would never have to worry about it with a solenoid online. Would always be charged. And if you went with a marine RV battery, add to your capacity.

Not sure of the specfics but am sure that all the solar battery experts on here will say yay or nay.

It has kept my regular dying starter battery charged and kicking for two years now after killing it a couple times boondocking before my solar install. But then am always at float as I use very little.
Get a Walmart battery with warranty and should be good for a long time. Plus moving to cooler temps will help prolong it's life.

 

[frater secessus]

Even a dinky dashboard panel or portable panel would probably keep the starter battery in reasonable condition when sitting for long periods. A $10 "shunt" controller set to Vfloat or whatever.

For about the same money and easier to use long term, a battery isolator setup (either manual switch or relay that allows combining) can self-jumpstart from your 300Ah house bank. Never worry about being stranded again! Just that sense of relief would be worth the install and the money. That way you could use the starter battery until it falls over completely dead and replace it then. Plus you'd get the knock-on effect of alternator charging your house bank. Woot woot!

I do it with a $50 Battery Doctor voltage sensing relay. There is a button on it which forces the starter and house batteries to combine for a few minutes when the engine isn't running.