Wheel Bearings?

[LathrenJames]

My neighbor just asked the last time the wheel bearings on my Scamp had been greased...? Well, it has been sitting in the pasture for 35 years. I just refurbished it and thought I was ready to go. Who does greasing wheel bearings? I wouldn't know where to begin. Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

[user 2252]

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...tp+pack+wheel+bearings+on+a+trailer&FORM=VDRE

 

[LathrenJames]

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...tp+pack+wheel+bearings+on+a+trailer&FORM=VDRE

Thank you! I've never done anything like that. My husband was the one for this but I may give it a try, if my neighbor might help guide me through it. I was wondering if a hometown mechanic shop might offer the service. I may stop and ask. Thanks, again.

 

[highdesertranger]

this is something that I would try to learn. it's not hard to do and the more stuff you can do on your own means more money in your pocket. over a years time the amount could be significant.

find a competent mechanic that can teach you and guide you through your first time. highdesertranger

 

[bullfrog]

The jacking up part is something you need to do if you have a flat tire anyway, the rest is just dirty work so wear some gloves you can toss.

 

[DannyB1954]

My neighbor just asked the last time the wheel bearings on my Scamp had been greased...?

A lot of places that rent trailers also service them. Most any auto mechanic will know how to do the job.
An hour labor should do it, but they might want to charge you for two. The hardest part is driving the new seal in straight. Auto parts stores will have the seals and bearings. You might have to take an old seal in with you as there are tiny numbers on it the parts person can use to get you the right ones. While you are in there make sure the electric brakes are still good.
Not a hard DIY job, but if the bearings appear pitted or discolored from heat, replace them. Go to you tube and look for repack trailer wheel bearings.

 

[Doubleone]

For safety... please be sure to put a jackstand solidly under the frame so it doesn't drop off the jack onto you.  You could also slide the loose wheel under the frame for partial protection if you don't have a jackstand.  It's not the best but it's better than nothing.  Just don't put yourself between the the truck and the ground.  Back in the day, I went to a scene where a young guy died after his Honda dropped onto his head.  Not the best way to use your head...

 

[DKNZ]

After 35 years are ok? Surprisingly you dont have to replace them yet!

 

[Txjaybird]

Since I don't know your RVing experience I'll make some suggestions.  If it's been out to pasture for 35yrs I suggest that besides new tires and spare that you also have the frame checked.  I saw a You Tube video of a lady whose frame on her "egg" trailer broke right in half at a stop sign.  I don't remember what brand of trailer it was.  She had a hard time getting a welder out to do the repairs on the road.  He also needed to reinforce the frame on the other side from the break.  I think she has a you tube channel, I just don't remember her name.  

I have a Aliner right now and I wish it was a Fiberglass TT because I'm having trouble raising the Aliner by myself.  This wasn't a problem in the fall of 2016 when I bought it.  

Will you post any pics of your TT?  I haven't figured out how to post pics myself.  I'm not very Tech savy.  Mainly self taught and my teacher needs a refresher course. 

 Luckily there are plenty of people on various forums willing to help others.  Are you familiar with the Fiberglass RV forum?  It's free to join and they are very nice and helpful too.

Jewellann

 

[LathrenJames]

Unfortunately, I have the same teacher!

I did have the frame checked out and it's good. Whenever my husband would bushhog the pasture, he'd move everything around and cut underneath so it did get proper airing, I guess. Anyway, the trailer is really pretty solid. It's complete so all that's left to do is purchase unnecessary throw pillows. For now I still tent-camp, though. I sleep best in my tent. Early to bed with no distractions and up at the first twerp (of a bird, I mean)

 

[tripper]

Since I don't know your RVing experience I'll make some suggestions.  If it's been out to pasture for 35yrs I suggest that besides new tires and spare that you also have the frame checked.  I saw a You Tube video of a lady whose frame on her "egg" trailer broke right in half at a stop sign.  I don't remember what brand of trailer it was.  She had a hard time getting a welder out to do the repairs on the road.  He also needed to reinforce the frame on the other side from the break.  I think she has a you tube channel, I just don't remember her name.  

I have a Aliner right now and I wish it was a Fiberglass TT because I'm having trouble raising the Aliner by myself.  This wasn't a problem in the fall of 2016 when I bought it.  

Will you post any pics of your TT?  I haven't figured out how to post pics myself.  I'm not very Tech savy.  Mainly self taught and my teacher needs a refresher course. 

 Luckily there are plenty of people on various forums willing to help others.  Are you familiar with the Fiberglass RV forum?  It's free to join and they are very nice and helpful too.

Jewellann

Here is a good video by Slim Potatohead on a lift assist for your A liner, he really has a lot of great videos on A liners.
A Liner Roof List Assist

The egg trailer that broke was Bex Cat-herder's Casita, the video can be found here

Bex Cat-herder Broken Casita

 

[bamabradford]

I'm not an expert by no means but some trailer bearings have the EZ grease fittings and that's really nice to have. Might be worth looking into. Also on occasion it's a good idea to check for slack by grabing side to side of wheel and push/pull. If there is slack then check the keeper and nut.

 

[closeanuf]

Jewellann could put a little basket on the end of the 2x4 and Queenie could help put the top up.

 

[LathrenJames]

I'm not an expert by no means but some trailer bearings have the EZ grease fittings and that's really nice to have. Might be worth looking into. Also on occasion it's a good idea to check for slack by grabing side to side of wheel and push/pull. If there is slack then check the keeper and nut.

Thank you. It's in amazing condition. I'm thinking about selling it. This after I refurbished and spruced it up, of course but I'm considering a van, now. We'll see.

 

[Txjaybird]

Here is a good video by Slim Potatohead on a lift assist for your A liner, he really has a lot of great videos on A liners.
A Liner Roof List Assist

The egg trailer that broke was Bex Cat-herder's Casita, the video can be found here

Bex Cat-herder Broken Casita

  Itripper Thanks for posting those links!  When I say " The only links I can do are the kind ya cook....I Ain't kidding!

I'm pretty sure one of the main reasons I'm having trouble with the Aliner is that it's not level where it's been sitting for months.  They are like putting a puzzle together, all the pieces need to line up to fit well.

 That and the neck and back problems I have.  Getting knocked off a concrete boat ramp into a lake with a F150, walking away from 2 vehicle roll overs, also being thrown then kicked/stepped on by a crazed horse can come back to haunt a person as they get a few years on 'em. :-/

Thankfully the Aliner has Buddy Bearings on it.

I've lost wheels off a trailer but so far managed not to have any frame issues.  I think I've owned and towed about 8 TTs, a 10ft and 40ft flatbed and 2 homemade pickup bed trailers.  My 1998 Safari is my 4th van. I think I've been lucky so far.......doing a walk around every time I hook up to something helps a lot.

Jewellann

 

[johnny b]

After 35 years I'd want to wipe out every bit of old grease in the hub, then spray with Brake Cleaner until the metal is clean. Clean the bearing as well. With a good light inspect the bearing and race carefully for signs of rust and/or pitting. Just one little bit bad, replace both bearings. In fact, unless that trailer was up on jacks I'd replace all the bearings anyway.

Nobody's yet mentioned the bearing race that is press fit (or hammered out and in to the hub). While not too difficult, it is something that needs to be taught by someone experienced.

This guy has the nice drive tool with different size faces, but this can also be done using a deep socket of the right sizes. If what you see here is uncomfortable as to your skill level, then have it done by someone. Probably can save a little money by taking off the wheels and hub yourself, then take just the hubs to the shop for bearing replacement.



NEVER, EVER REPLACE A WHEEL BEARING WITHOUT A NEW RACE...THEY'RE A SET!

 

[Doubleone]

Buddy bearings tend to be used more on boat trailers but are still good for any trailer.  Boats have a habit of getting water contamination when hot wheel bearings are immersed in cold water, it creates a vacuum and sucks in water.  The buddy bearing helps get some fresh grease in there and displaces the water.  It tends to be the smaller outboard bearings that will get dry and show heat first.  It's really simple to grease bearings but it's heavy work for a novice and you'll definitely need to get your hands dirty. 

Here's the process to pack wheel bearings... you can decide if you want to tackle it as a project or pay a mechanic.  Start by safely jacking the vehicle and place securely on a jack stand.  Once the wheel is clear from the ground, I check for wheel bearing play by gripping the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and giving it a good push pull.  I also check at 9 and 3 o'clock.  Any detectable movement or clunk clunk means the bearings are dry and loose; no noise or play means all is well.  I'll also spin the tire to check for dry bearing noises or brake drag.  After removing the wheel, next remove the dust cap from the spindle, it's typically a press fit.  I use large channel lock pliers, a hammer, or vice grip depending on dust cap size and how tight it is.  Under the cap you'll see a greasy castle nut with a cotter pin holding things in place.  Remove the cotter pin and the castle, then use a large wrench to unscrew the spindle nut.  There is typically a large washer under the nut holding the outboard bearing in place.  Once the washer is off, the whole hub with bearings and seal and all should slide right off.  I say should because brake hubs might bind on the brake shoes if excessively worn or misadjusted.   Once you have it apart it will become plainly obvious how everything fits together.  After that you pry the seal out, clean the grease with paper towels and solvent, and thoroughly inspect the bearings.   Good bearings have very little discoloration and the rollers should have a nice even sheen.  Any scoring, pits, rust, black spots, brown or blueing means heat or corrosion damage and the bearings should be replaced.  Also inspect the bearing races in the hubs.  Damaged bearings and races are replaced in matched sets.  The races are press fit in the hub so that's a project in itself.  You beat them out with a big hammer and chisel, and press new races back in place.  Bearings need to be packed with grease.  Packing a bearing means there is solid grease and no air voids or bubbles in the bearing.  Shops have a special tool to grease bearings; if doing it at home there's a trick using a blob of grease in the palm of you hand and swipe the edge of the bearing to force the grease into the shell and across the rollers.  I can't really describe how to do this because you have to hold everything just right to get it to work.  I learned by watching my grandfather do it.  You will also need to inspect the spindle where the bearing sit, and the seal surface for any damage.  Once cleaned, inspected, and greased, you reassemble everything using a new seal.  Wipe a thin film of grease on the lip of the seal and spindle where the seal rides so the seal doesn't start dry.  Torque on the spindle nut is critical.  Start by overtighting the nut and roll the hub back and forth to check for any binds.  This also helps to seat any bearing races that were off a bit.  Back the nut to loose and set the bearing preload.  Bearings like to be a bit loose rather than too tight.  The metal grows in size with heat, to too tight will kill the deal.  Setting the preload is more by feel or intuition.  I go full loose on the nut and using a 12" crescent wrench at 1 o'clock I let the handle of the wrench fall on it's own weight.  Then I test fit the castle lock.  Rotate the castle around to find the place where the cotter will go in and hold the nut from backing off.  Install and bend the cotter, making sure it won't rub on the inside of the dust cap.  Hammer on the dust cap, install the wheel and you're in business.

 

[highdesertranger]

good vid johnny. x2 on using Timkin Bearings, top of the line. the one thing they didn't show on the vid was putting a light coat of grease on the inner wheel seal. highdesertranger