Well, it's TBD time.

[Wanderer]

Well, I have a new starter installed in my van.

Thing is, this wasn't  the problem I had problems with.

Now I'll have my van towed to a mech....Hoping it's a minor cost issue.

If you're wondering, time to time the van wouldn't start. The van would click and click..Then catch and run....I heard there were issues with the ECM (Or was that BCM?) but I'll see what the mech says.... I will say I feel pretty damn good that I got the repair done....Only took 2.5 hours and one cup of coffee...No, no smoke, I quit smoking. But YES I WANT ONE STILL!!!!

 

[highdesertranger]

what year and make van? sound like a heat soak problem. highdesertranger

 

[Wabbit]

Back in the day, a clicking sound when trying to start my '74 mustang(think it was my mustang) left me stranded. Called my brother and he instructed me to "cross" the solenoid with a screwdriver. Didn't have a screw driver, but had a neck chain on. Used that and it started. Why don't we still have those simple, easy engines to fix around today?!? I know why, but still...

 

[Wanderer]

what year and make van? sound like a heat soak problem. highdesertranger

1998 Dodge B1500 5.2 L V8

 

[steamjam1]

In Dodges, if the starter clicks, but doesn't spin the engine, then its a starter, OR battery voltage issue. Your Dodge is a '98, so its got the high torque "mini" starter that Dodge started using in '87. They aren't great starters, even rebuilt. I have run into problems with these starters in the connector that wires the starter into the electrical system. Not a great design.

 

[SternWake]

Could easily be a loose/compromised battery to engine ground.

If there is brocolli or cauliflower on either battery terminal, bingo.

Sadly cleaning the offending vegetable from visible areas near the battery, does not remedy the issue if it is the cause.
Replace.

 

[Gary68]

solenoid click,low battery,bad connection,bad solenoid,starter to flexplate gears to tight

 

[Wanderer]

No, it's not the starter...Terminals are tight and clean (had the shop clean and replace the terminals and coat them with that stuff)...I'll just let them see if they can find out the reason...Battery was/is fully charged...

This has happened before I should say, but I always thought it was the starter. But it would always "Break free" after turning the key several times (Or waiting 1 hour) then trying again...This time I suspect it'll take them to do the diagnoses..

 

[Wanderer]

OK F me...For the heck of it...Checked terminals...Wiggled both...van started....Will now slink away....(At least the starter is new!)

I am kind of stunned that it started...Used battery to charge computer for 3...4 hours...Battery is pretty good...

 

[SternWake]

This could also be ignition switch related. Located at base of steering column.

Cleaning obviously corroded battery terminals when corrosion has visibly touched cable insulation, does nothing.

Cleaning main engine ground..... Elimnating it as a cluprit.........priceless.

Also, never underestimate the importance of a clean battery terminal and terminal clamp.

Just yesterday I used mine to "fix' a bad battery on a Chevy van.

Somehow, A perfectly translucent coating had prevented current from passing from battery post to post clamp. It was invisible until abraded with the brush above.

I found it with my digital multimeter after seeing a perfectly clean battery, but there was almost noconnectivity between post and post clamp. No obvious corrosion either. I am not sure I could intentionally pull that off without ridiculous effort. A Digital multi meter couldn't lie though. Place probe on battery post itself and 12.81v, place probe on battery clamp still on battery post, and 0.12v. I have no idea how such an incredible yet invisible electrical barrier formed between the two, but it did, and with the battery terminal tool, brushed off, as if someone had applied epoxy to the terminal, then the clamp, allowed both to cure, then seated them.

Nobody else was impressed with my Multimeter demonstration, until I said 'F' it, go turn the key, and the engine caught.

 

[Wanderer]

Sorry, meant I wriggled the wires. Terminals were tight, I had a shop do them after a past episode of the fuel pump going out. Intermittent ground?

When it gets dry (We're in a "Soaking" period. I'll just buy a new wiring set up....I think I'll also go for a 5 ton lift and not the 2 ton wimpy I have....

As an aside. nothing beats having a tub of Goop and a few towels, beer and (something else) after a long three hours under a vehicle...As stated above, I did it in time as it's POURING here right now...

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Sorry, meant I wriggled the wires. Terminals were tight, I had a shop do them after a past episode of the fuel pump going out.  Intermittent ground?

I think Stern means you should trace the wire from the negative on the battery to wherever it attaches to the engine and/or chassis.  Make sure it's tight at those locations.  Better yet, remove it, clean it with sandpaper, and reinstall tightly.

 

[Wanderer]

Oh I see...