Was checking out ebikes...

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Motrukdriver

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They sure are expensive.  Found this instructional video on how to make your own ebike for under $500 and that includes buying a new bike.  Could probably go a bit cheaper if you picked up a used bike someplace and even cheaper if you already have a bike you can use.  This is a 16:14 minute long video.

 
Good heavy duty components required due to weight and torque of an electric bike are expensive. Newest battery tech is about $300 to $500 so $1,000 to $1,500 is not at this time unreasonable I think.
 
bullfrog said:
Good heavy duty components required due to weight and torque of an electric bike are expensive.  Newest battery tech is about $300 to $500 so $1,000 to $1,500 is not at this time unreasonable I think.

It's an emerging market.  There are two types of drives, hub and 'mid'. Hub drives are not geared so they are simpler and likely sturdier.  The high torque nature of electric motors make the lack of gearing more feasible than you might think, but I'd test anything under real world conditions.  Last I checked the better mid-drives had gotten easier to repair.

I believe street legal is limited to 750 watts or 20 mph.

These folks seem to know what they are talking about:

https://lunacycle.com/mid-drive-kits/
 
I'm in Tucson and Rad bikes has a test ride program through Velofix mobile bike service. Just made an appointment online and tomorrow they bring a few different bikes to the house at noon for me to try, pretty cool, I don't even have to use my gas to go look!
 
Rad bikes got it going on, best range of bike at a good price.
 
Rad bikes are very hard to beat for the price.
There are three common types of electric motors in use right now

1) Direct drive hub - these look like giant Frisbees on the front or rear wheel, very simple, just a large generator, no mechanical parts
     Pros- Very efficient at their cruising speeds and (best for) high speeds & long distance, typically 16-28 mph range. Can do regeneration i.e. regenerate power when braking and going downhill, when equipped with a proper controller. Very reliable. Either the motor or pedals can get you home if either break. Easy to install on front, moderate to install on the rear.
      Cons- Very inefficient for slow speed cruising. Not good for steep hills, they will draw a lot of amps  and output little power at low rpms. Large and heavy. Over 500 watts should have a steel dropouts and beef up plates.

2) Geared hub- These are about half the diameter of the large Frisbee direct drive hubs, and usually a bit fatter.  They are basically a smaller direct drive hub tied to a mechanical gear reduction, 3 plastic planetary gears. Easy to install on front, moderate to install on the rear.
      Pros- More low end power than a direct drive hub, smaller and lighter. Better for hill climbing than direct drive, not for steep hills. Very easy to install. Either the motor or pedals can get you home if either break
      Cons- The plastic gears can strip or wear out over time (not common), not quite as efficient as a direct drive hub (close), no regeneration (they freewheel). Over 500 watts should have steel dropouts and beef up plates.

3) Bottom bracket mounted- These externally mounted motors (factory bikes have internal on some) directly drive the chain from the pedal cranks.
      Pros- Incredible power as you can use the bikes gears to multiply torque. Excellent for steep hills. Must have for really hilly areas or very heavy towing.
      Cons- Wears out the driveline faster, increases power several times more than a human can do through the chain rings and sprockets accelerating wear. Not as efficient as the hub motors, will use more battery power for long distance riding. If the chain ring breaks you are stranded. Moderately difficult to install.

You can purchase quality motor kits around $400 and a good battery around $400 and add them to a bike that you really like. Personally, the Rad power bikes are so well made and inexpensive (for an ebike) I would just go that route for anyone but a real ebike enthusiast.

Sondors makes some really inexpensive ebikes, about $600. Those would be good for flat paved or very smooth dirt roads, not boondocking dirt roads.

I've owned several ebikes and have used them extensively. Any questions just post.

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I used a 500W front hub motor on a old bike. 36 volt 10 ah lithium battery. Over a summer, I wore the tire to thread and the bike to junk. But the motor is still strong. I have that one, and two others in their boxes. Thinking about selling at a yard sale.
 
bullfrog said:
I'm in Tucson and Rad bikes has a test ride program through Velofix mobile bike service.  Just made an appointment online and tomorrow they bring a few different bikes to the house at noon for me to try, pretty cool, I don't even have to use my gas to go look!

super envious over here - i took a leap of faith and ordered mine sight unseen since i couldn't find a place to check them out in person
(well, after studying every youtube and online review i could find)
my radrover should be delivered on friday :)
 
How much solar capacity do you have to dedicate to charge an electric bike?
 
Spaceman Spiff said:
How much solar capacity do you have to dedicate to charge an electric bike?

I just checked out the Rad Rover, it has a 675 Watt Hour battery, or 56 Amp hours.  To charge the single battery you'll need to generate that 675 watts, a substantial, but very doable amount.  I am not aware of direct solar chargers, so you will have inverter and converter losses as you invert to 120v AC, then back to 36v or 48v dc.  That provides a claimed 25-45 mile range.
 
Itripper said:
Rad bikes are very hard to beat for the price.


2) Geared hub- These are about half the diameter of the large Frisbee direct drive hubs, and usually a bit fatter.  They are basically a smaller direct drive hub tied to a mechanical gear reduction, 3 plastic planetary gears. Easy to install on front, moderate to install on the rear.
      Pros- More low end power than a direct drive hub, smaller and lighter. Better for hill climbing than direct drive, not for steep hills. Very easy to install. Either the motor or pedals can get you home if either break
      Cons- The plastic gears can strip or wear out over time (not common), not quite as efficient as a direct drive hub (close), no regeneration (they freewheel). Over 500 watts should have steel dropouts and beef up plates.

The Rad Rover uses a geared hub.  Is that what you use?  How is the pedal assist on steep hills?  The Rad Rover claims a max weight of 275#, which I exceed, without any sort of load. The Rad Wagon has a higher weight capacity, including load, of 350#. It is direct drive and has a full 21 speed Shimano gearing system.
 
DLTooley said:
The Rad Rover uses a geared hub.  Is that what you use?  How is the pedal assist on steep hills?  The Rad Rover claims a max weight of 275#, which I exceed, without any sort of load.  The Rad Wagon has a higher weight capacity, including load, of 350#.  It is direct drive and has a full 21 speed Shimano gearing system.

I have a 1000 watt direct drive hub.  The pedal assist helps a lot, but a seriously steep hill, like some San Francisco streets, will be difficult for it. Most ebikes use geared hubs, and a few use the bottom bracket type (mid drive).  Direct drive hubs are uncommon, Bionics is the only large scale user of them.
 
There are many "direct drive" hubs available as kits or as bikes. My antique has 500 watt motor with a 36 volt, 10 ah battery. I road it for about 3 hours on the flat ground.
 
I have had my Rad Rover for a few months and absolutely love it. Do bear in mind, however, that most ebikes are heavier than their non-electric counterparts. The Rover is around sixty pounds. No problem to ride, but lifting up and down from a bike carrier can be a challenge. There are ways around the issue but it should factor into your decision. For me, in spite of the challenge of loading and unloading, I would not trade my fat tire Rover for the world.
 
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