Could you recommend a propane thermostat operated heater vented unit. I own a 97 dodge b2500 van and need a propane heater that is safe. I have seen rv units but they are a pain to install and need ac or DC power. What do you recommend? 1 email me at [email protected] all ideas appreciate!
Want recommendation for thermostat-operated, vented, propane heater
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Somebody posted a while ago about such a unit, but can't remember exactly when or what model. I've generally bought used off Craigslist or bought from a wrecker. My present one I bought off Craigslist for around $35 CDN. ..Willy..
Suanne
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I was catching up on Glenn's To Simplify blog today and see that he's installing a forced-air heater that you may be interested in.
Here is his latest blog post: http://www.tosimplify.net/2016/03/heat.html
Here is a link to the Propex heater that I believe he is installing: http://www.tosimplify.net/2016/03/heat.html
Here is his latest blog post: http://www.tosimplify.net/2016/03/heat.html
Here is a link to the Propex heater that I believe he is installing: http://www.tosimplify.net/2016/03/heat.html
I'm trying to order one of these:
http://ventedcatheater.com/
A carbon monoxide detector is a good idea.
http://ventedcatheater.com/
A carbon monoxide detector is a good idea.
debit.servus
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Is there one under $350? The PROPEX costs nearly $900 and the 3000BTU Vented Cat Heater costs about $500.
One way to cut initial set-up costs and have multiple heating systems incase one goes bust is to have a small thermostatically controlled heater under 5000BTU and augment that with a MR BUDDY. One could use the MR BUDDY to heat the space initially and the small thermostatically controlled heater to maintain the temperature.
Just discovered http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004470O2E/ , a thermostatically controlled non-vented 10,000 BTU propane heater like the MR BUDDY for ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY DOLLARS!~!!!! And it comes with hose and regulator to hook up to the standard BBQ tanks, so in theory one has everything needed to warm up out of the box except the propane tank. For those living in California or CANADA, you will need to have it shipped to a mail forwarding address or a friend/families house or buy it on your next road trip to one of the 49 states where it's legal to sell (every state BUT California).
One way to cut initial set-up costs and have multiple heating systems incase one goes bust is to have a small thermostatically controlled heater under 5000BTU and augment that with a MR BUDDY. One could use the MR BUDDY to heat the space initially and the small thermostatically controlled heater to maintain the temperature.
Just discovered http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004470O2E/ , a thermostatically controlled non-vented 10,000 BTU propane heater like the MR BUDDY for ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY DOLLARS!~!!!! And it comes with hose and regulator to hook up to the standard BBQ tanks, so in theory one has everything needed to warm up out of the box except the propane tank. For those living in California or CANADA, you will need to have it shipped to a mail forwarding address or a friend/families house or buy it on your next road trip to one of the 49 states where it's legal to sell (every state BUT California).
debit.servus
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Do regulations apply when it applies to van modifications?
According to the Amazon product page (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004470O2E/), the heater unit is rather small:
Does the mounting take up that much space?
According to the Amazon product page (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004470O2E/), the heater unit is rather small:
Does the mounting take up that much space?
GotSmart
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It may be small, but it is also unvented.
High C02, high moisture, you need to have a clearance space to keep from starting nearby things on fire. The fact that there is no spec sheet with it is a red flag in my book. Every stove, heater and fireplace I have installed had a set of mounting instructions. Nothing here. Even my Mr Buddy had a instruction sheet.
High C02, high moisture, you need to have a clearance space to keep from starting nearby things on fire. The fact that there is no spec sheet with it is a red flag in my book. Every stove, heater and fireplace I have installed had a set of mounting instructions. Nothing here. Even my Mr Buddy had a instruction sheet.
debit.servus
Well-known member
It's smaller than the RV propane furnace in the DODGE (that I might reclaim depending on who buys it, as comparable furnaces retail new for around $500), and it's unvented like the MR BUDDY. Unlike the MR BUDDY, this propane heater is thermostat-operated; meaning no having to watch the weather to maintain a desired temperature range.
"High C02, high moisture, you need to have a clearance space to keep from starting nearby things on fire. " Isn't that the same for the MR BUDDY?
No spec sheet for the propane heater I linked? No mounting instructions? Maybe they don't specify on the product page, they have to have some manual for it.
"High C02, high moisture, you need to have a clearance space to keep from starting nearby things on fire. " Isn't that the same for the MR BUDDY?
No spec sheet for the propane heater I linked? No mounting instructions? Maybe they don't specify on the product page, they have to have some manual for it.
VJG1977
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Here is a link to the manual.
OWNER’S OPERATION AND INSTALLATION MANUAL
Here is a link to a Q & A page from Northern Tool & Equipment
Customer Questions & Answers for "ProCom Vent-Free Propane Ice House Heater -10,000 BTU
sample answer
The heater "thermostat" won't work unless the pilot light is left on (which is always manually started without electricity by pressing/clicking the knob.)
For regulating the heat, just turn the knob with the numbers 1,2,3, etc., and adjust the flame. The flame should die back down to just the pilot light after it reaches a certain range.
I've found that setting it on No. 2 or 3 is fine for us--the heater went off when the room reached about 72 degrees, but started up again (quietly, I may add) when the front door was accidentally left open for a few minutes, and then shut down again after 10 minutes of warming the room.
This wasn't due to the low oxygen sensor--a great safety feature which it has--because we always keep a window cracked while using it.
I was pleased that the heater did go off and on, instead of just burning up the gas, but you'll have to play with the numbers to find your comfort zone.
Hope this helps. Vic
OWNER’S OPERATION AND INSTALLATION MANUAL
Here is a link to a Q & A page from Northern Tool & Equipment
Customer Questions & Answers for "ProCom Vent-Free Propane Ice House Heater -10,000 BTU
sample answer
The heater "thermostat" won't work unless the pilot light is left on (which is always manually started without electricity by pressing/clicking the knob.)
For regulating the heat, just turn the knob with the numbers 1,2,3, etc., and adjust the flame. The flame should die back down to just the pilot light after it reaches a certain range.
I've found that setting it on No. 2 or 3 is fine for us--the heater went off when the room reached about 72 degrees, but started up again (quietly, I may add) when the front door was accidentally left open for a few minutes, and then shut down again after 10 minutes of warming the room.
This wasn't due to the low oxygen sensor--a great safety feature which it has--because we always keep a window cracked while using it.
I was pleased that the heater did go off and on, instead of just burning up the gas, but you'll have to play with the numbers to find your comfort zone.
Hope this helps. Vic
wagoneer
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got an RV unit in the back yard. Free if you want it
GotSmart
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3 feet of clearance on front, sides, and top. That means that it requires 45 sq ft of safety space. That is 1/2 of the space in your van. Also read the ventilation requirements. No storage of flammable materials,
This is not a good match for what you are wanting. The one in the Dodge was vented to the outside. Completely different set of specs.
debit.servus
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I can't see how it's fundamentally any different than the MR BUDDY. I keep hearing from people the RV furnaces eat the battery power, and how everybody recommends the MR BUDDY.
The heater in the dodge is one of those vented RV furnaces, combusted propane is piped outside of the van and is fully thermostatically controlled. I like this, set the thermostat and have consistent temperature 24/7. Like the ProCom because it's thermostatically controlled and is portable like a MR BUDDY, I know a window will have to be open to keep safe levels of CO2 inside.
The cheapest thermostat-operated, vented, propane heater will have to be the RV furnaces which haven't changed much in over 30 years. To get them for less than $200, one will have to look inside RV junkyards and on Craigslist for a used one. Because these are made to be built in, the propane inlet is a copper tube; which means one has to adapt it to a standard BBR tank with the appropriate regulator, fittings & know how. I don't know much about propane fittings and OSHA approved flow mediums (tubing and hoses), plus non-common propane stuff is super expensive and hard to find.
The heater in the dodge is one of those vented RV furnaces, combusted propane is piped outside of the van and is fully thermostatically controlled. I like this, set the thermostat and have consistent temperature 24/7. Like the ProCom because it's thermostatically controlled and is portable like a MR BUDDY, I know a window will have to be open to keep safe levels of CO2 inside.
The cheapest thermostat-operated, vented, propane heater will have to be the RV furnaces which haven't changed much in over 30 years. To get them for less than $200, one will have to look inside RV junkyards and on Craigslist for a used one. Because these are made to be built in, the propane inlet is a copper tube; which means one has to adapt it to a standard BBR tank with the appropriate regulator, fittings & know how. I don't know much about propane fittings and OSHA approved flow mediums (tubing and hoses), plus non-common propane stuff is super expensive and hard to find.
highdesertranger
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there is no adapting needed to use a BBQ tank on a RV furnace. all parts are readily available. highdesertranger
Used to have Dickenson propane heater on my old boat:
Could be adapted a van, maybe? Might be overkill.
The pipe is both the air intake and exhaust gas outflow. There is also a diesel fuel version of this...though that can get pretty rough.
Could be adapted a van, maybe? Might be overkill.
The pipe is both the air intake and exhaust gas outflow. There is also a diesel fuel version of this...though that can get pretty rough.
debit.servus
Well-known member
This is great! Since I prefer to keep it COTS (Commercial, Off The Shelf) with propane as specialized propane tanks, fittings and systems cost $$$$; could the propane fitting master help me when I have the RV furnace ready to fit into the FORD?
Isn't that fireplace heater pretty expensive? I am sure it could be adapted for a van.
Isn't that fireplace heater pretty expensive? I am sure it could be adapted for a van.
wagoneer
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Yah your not the first "figure it out guy" we were all in your boat, no money with needs to be met and figured it out without killing ourselves on the cheap
ViaVacavi
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I've been contemplating making my own system for the Buddy and Olympian Wave heaters as a base and adding an arduino (brains), CO and O2 detectors, control valve, thermocouple (or infrared sensor) and igniter to roll my own setup eventually. I'm still on the build stages of my van though and I probably won't get around to it until I need it for cold weather use.
I've also though about the feasibility of using a non-vented heater that was separated from the living space of the fan so that possible CO or O2 issues aren't an issue. IR radiant heat at these wavelengths travels through tempered glass just fine, so I wonder if a sealed compartment can be built to house a ventless heater while letting the heat into the van through tempered glass. I think there are quite a few possibilities that can be explored.
I've also though about the feasibility of using a non-vented heater that was separated from the living space of the fan so that possible CO or O2 issues aren't an issue. IR radiant heat at these wavelengths travels through tempered glass just fine, so I wonder if a sealed compartment can be built to house a ventless heater while letting the heat into the van through tempered glass. I think there are quite a few possibilities that can be explored.
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