I'm playing with van build out plans and got a bit of a crazy idea. I would love to place the bed going across the back of the van instead of along one side. Problem is I'm 6'-2" and won't fit. Then I thought of a foot well slide out, or hinge out to give me the width needed. Just picture a tiny slide out on the side about 30" wide and 12" tall. Has this ever been done or is just not worth it?
Van slide out
- Thread starter kygreg
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Anhedonic
Well-known member
I did the same sort of thinking. I'm 6'1". I ended up getting a Promaster van which is wide enough for me to sleep across. Barely. At 6'2" you might be able to do it but no one taller than that. The other option I looked at was making the bed wide enough (front to back in the van) that I could sleep diagonally on the bed.
It seems to me that a slide of that sort would be a good deal of work and money, as well as potentially compromising the water-tightness of the van. That said, if you know how to do the work and can do it yourself well enough to make it work than I don't see why not.
Still, sleeping at an angle might just solve the problem with less effort and expense.
It seems to me that a slide of that sort would be a good deal of work and money, as well as potentially compromising the water-tightness of the van. That said, if you know how to do the work and can do it yourself well enough to make it work than I don't see why not.
Still, sleeping at an angle might just solve the problem with less effort and expense.
sephson
Well-known member
Have you considered putting in some sort of bump out in the side walls of the van where you plan to put your bed?
A quick google search yielded a few results.
http://www.flarespace.com/products/
https://rbcomponents.com/products/sprinter-van-window-flares
https://www.vanspecialties.com/van-customization-process/van-options/
https://sportsmobile.com/van-options/van-fiberglass-flares/
https://www.campervan-hq.com/collections/camper-van-body-flares
If you have a little skill with welding and metal fabrication, you could make your own without too much difficulty. Rough it out with cardboard and tape. Then duplicate it with steel. Cut an appropriate size hole and weld it into place. Rinse and repeat on the other side of the van. Just make sure you don't exceed the legal limit for vehicle width.
A quick google search yielded a few results.
http://www.flarespace.com/products/
https://rbcomponents.com/products/sprinter-van-window-flares
https://www.vanspecialties.com/van-customization-process/van-options/
https://sportsmobile.com/van-options/van-fiberglass-flares/
https://www.campervan-hq.com/collections/camper-van-body-flares
If you have a little skill with welding and metal fabrication, you could make your own without too much difficulty. Rough it out with cardboard and tape. Then duplicate it with steel. Cut an appropriate size hole and weld it into place. Rinse and repeat on the other side of the van. Just make sure you don't exceed the legal limit for vehicle width.
Anhedonic
Well-known member
kygreg said:
Width between ribs is 73.6" but between the actual wall is something like 76" I believe. I build my bed so that my head and feet are between ribs so I've got a few extra inches.
I'm just trying to make best use of the smallest possible van that gives me what I'm after. If the bed can't go side to side, there are plenty of other options. I've pedalled a bike 5100 miles across the country living in a tiny tent, so a van of any size is a palace to me. I'm looking at the smallest Promaster with a high top as the base of a build out. Right now I'm camping out of a Toyota Prius, so this would be a big step up, getting older and all.
Anhedonic
Well-known member
I went with the Promaster 136" wb rather than the 118 for a couple of reasons. While I would prefer smaller for many purposes, the 118 come only in a 1500 and has poor brakes. With the weight involved in many builds I didn't feel confident that it would handle it. Also, with a bed in the back, it would leave very little space left over. The 136 is the length of a big SUV which is manageable and I felt the interior space was a good compromise.
I know my reasoning is not your reasoning, but since you were thinking of the Promaster, I figured I'd share on the off chance it would help.
If you are anywhere near me, you'd be welcome to come lie in my van to see if it fits. I'm in New England.
I know my reasoning is not your reasoning, but since you were thinking of the Promaster, I figured I'd share on the off chance it would help.
If you are anywhere near me, you'd be welcome to come lie in my van to see if it fits. I'm in New England.
Anhedonic
Well-known member
Two other things.
1. The lengthwise ribs are set at 31" high so they're an excellent height to mount a bed right to. Them along the back with a pretty decent sized garage. You don't even need legs, just a platform bolted on to the ribs. It makes a bed both very easy and super sturdy.
2. I was initially concerned that the Promaster is built unibody, but it turns out they use it as a cutaway van as well. The floor and front are structural, but the walls, ribs, and roof are not. At least to my understanding; I'm not really a "car guy"
If you think of any questions, feel free. I'd be happy to help any way I can.
1. The lengthwise ribs are set at 31" high so they're an excellent height to mount a bed right to. Them along the back with a pretty decent sized garage. You don't even need legs, just a platform bolted on to the ribs. It makes a bed both very easy and super sturdy.
2. I was initially concerned that the Promaster is built unibody, but it turns out they use it as a cutaway van as well. The floor and front are structural, but the walls, ribs, and roof are not. At least to my understanding; I'm not really a "car guy"
If you think of any questions, feel free. I'd be happy to help any way I can.
rm.w/aview
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Going bigger does have advantages in weight carrying ability. As you look into them be sure to look at the suspensions, I've seen only two leaf springs on some models. The cargo capacity is specific to each vehicle with variables like options and tires affecting it, and it'll be on the door sticker. A higher cargo capacity will have an empty van/truck seem to have a harsh ride but it sure does mellow out with the weight added to give a smoother ride, plush in comparison to empty.
Somewhere I saw a homebuilt camper that had a weather tight cargo door installed on a side wall. At night while parked he opened the door and had a large plastic tote that he pushed side ways out the door that velcro held to the inside wall creating a poor man's slide out for his feet about 18" deep.
DannyB1954
Well-known member
I seen a slide out that someone did for their window air conditioner. Underway it slid into the vehicle and a hatch cover for a boat was used for the outside door. You could fabricate a box instead of the A/C unit. Just open the hatch cover and put the box in.
Looking at those side flairs made me think a deep Aluminum cooking pan might work instead. Cut a nice hole in the side and trim it with some rubber hose split down the middle and then fasten and seal the pan in place. Insulation may be a bit tricky Maybe use something flexible like carpeting or thin denim glued in place.
Looking at those side flairs made me think a deep Aluminum cooking pan might work instead. Cut a nice hole in the side and trim it with some rubber hose split down the middle and then fasten and seal the pan in place. Insulation may be a bit tricky Maybe use something flexible like carpeting or thin denim glued in place.
