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kidiekat

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I am looking at vans.&nbsp; I am not sure where to put this question so if I am in the wrong place please let me know.<br>I found a Chevy Astro cargo van.&nbsp; Gona try and look at it today.&nbsp; I do not have any one to look at it with me or a mechanic so I am on my own.&nbsp; <br><br>What do I look for..... When I look at the engine, I can tell if there is oil leaking around it and under the van.&nbsp; Smoke from the tail pipe white is water and black is oil.&nbsp; Look for rust. I wouldn't know a miss in an engine if it hit me in the head. &nbsp; <br><br>I don't care about power windows or locks or that it is not finished inside, plus that's one less thing that can break.&nbsp; I will set it up the way I want it.&nbsp; I may be slow but I have some good battery operated power tools and will get it done when I get it done.&nbsp; <br><br>Oh my, how do I know the engine is okay? &nbsp; I am open to advice and yup, I need plenty of it. <br>thanks<br>kidie<br><br>Jeesh, where's a hertz rent a man when you need him?<br><br>
 
If it was me, first I am concerned with mileage.&nbsp; Appearance is a big deal, not just rust and dings, but how well do the folks take care of it.&nbsp; Is it clean inside, and not just from a quick cleaning for selling purposes.<br>Even if you don't know what a skip in the engine is, you want to listen to it run.&nbsp; Does it run smooth, no hiccups, purr like a cat.&nbsp; Make sure the check engine light is off.&nbsp; But even if it is on, it normally will only have to do with emissions.&nbsp; A check engine light can be diagnosed at any auto parts store, most will put a reader on it and check codes for free.<br><br>You will want to check tires.&nbsp; See if they all seem to be inflated the same amount, just by sight.&nbsp; Also, important, check tread wear, not how much, but see if the tires seem to be wearing evenly.<br><br>Check the fluids, oil and transmission fluid.&nbsp; See if the oil level is correct and check the color by wiping on a paper towel.&nbsp; Check transmission fluid with engine running in neutral,&nbsp; check level and color of oil, if will probably be dark, you just don't want something real thick and ***** or something that appears foamy.&nbsp; Also, drive it, even if it is only on the lot.&nbsp; Shift it in each of the gears, I assume it is automatic.&nbsp; Especially reverse, reverse seems to fail first in a lot of auto transmissions.<br><br>Other than that, before anything, just take a walk around, check underneath, like you said for any drips, if you see one, check to see what it is, water, oil, etc.<br><br>Nothing much else you can do, other than question about the history, how many owners and such.<br><br>Basically once you've done all that, it is how you feel over all, and that is what matters most.&nbsp; Don't feel in any way pressured, relax.<br><br>Good luck, and hope this helps.<br><br><br>
 
That is a rough call. I suggest that you look at one with less than 70,000 miles. Get a carfax report. Listen, crawl under. Look AT EVERYTHING. <br><br>If it has not been driven for 8+ months be careful. <br><br>Mine was a rough ride, bad tires and rough engine idle. Not been driven for 3 years. However, I knew what I was doing. Now it is smooth running and I am getting rid of the last problem.&nbsp;<br><br>Used anything is a tough call. IF you have a trusted machanic, spend the money to get an evaluation. <br><br>After you buy, change all fluids ASAP and put gas additives in with a 1/4 tank of gas added. Run for 30 miles and then fill up with high test.<br><br>James AKA Lynx<br><br>also - i do not trust car dealers, used or new.
 
After you give it a once over, take it to a reputable mechanic. For $100-$150 bucks they'll give it a good going over and let you know what's what. Don't be talked into taking it to the seller's mechanic. And if the seller won't let you do that, it's a deal breaker. There are mobile mechanics that will come out to the site, for a few extra bucks. Or mechanics on craigslist that will do it just for the work.
 
Bless your hearts for all the advice.&nbsp; I am just now leaving to take a look and listen and drive.&nbsp; I am a nervous wreck cause the car I have is in tip top condition but will not fit what I will need.&nbsp; <br>There are a couple other vans I have found but I am doing this one at a time.<br>crossing my fingers....<br><br>kidie<br><br>Where's a hertz rent a man when you need em?&nbsp; lol
 
Oh my, the astro van.&nbsp; I KNOW it was in the flood from Sandy and flooding before that.&nbsp; Some one painted over the rust on the step up. lol It looked like a boiling pot that had been spray painted.&nbsp; The engine turned on easy, with just the key, no gas pump thing going on.&nbsp; It sounded even.&nbsp; I did see a little puff from the tail pipe but I expect all cars will have a little even if it is just clearing dust out of the pipe.&nbsp; I stuck my finger in the pipe it was cleanish...&nbsp; A smudge of black like dirt.&nbsp; The tires were all worn the same but it needed new tires.&nbsp; The oil was clear, so they just changed it.&nbsp; The transmission fluid was a pinkish color and clear and thin.&nbsp; So they had to have done that.&nbsp; I squeezed all the tubes and hoses and they were flexible not brittle at all, so some work has been done to it.&nbsp; The inside was fairly clean for 1998 and not too bad on the seats.&nbsp; I pulled the rubber mat up that was on the floor and rust was every where.&nbsp; Even rust on the ceiling like it had dripped water.&nbsp; The jack was completely rusted.&nbsp; The man told me it was from New Jersey so even with the 35,000 miles it looked like after 6 months I may be able to poke my finger through some of it.&nbsp; I just felt it was in the floods and was hanging on for dear life.&nbsp; Dang!<br><br>I looked at a chevy trailblazer.&nbsp; 2 owners from New York.&nbsp; Had a weird smell in it but it was clean.&nbsp; They got the Sandy floods too.&nbsp; First owner kept it for 21,000 miles, second owner kept it for 14,000.&nbsp; Power seats, windows, lumbar, heated seats, you name it, it had it all.&nbsp; 2008 sounded good, no obvious smoke from the tail pipe, tires on back were brand new, on the front aged but looked even.&nbsp; Spare tire under the back was a white-ish color.&nbsp; Possibly dry rotting under there.&nbsp; Even with the seats in the back folded down there was just not enough space.&nbsp; $14,000.&nbsp; Don't know if it was a good deal but at least I know now that it is too small for boon camping. <br><br>I did look at a chevy van 1500.&nbsp; Too over priced but now I know what a 1/4 ton chevy is and that it is enough space for what I want.&nbsp; Before I went out to look I didn't know the difference between a quarter ton and a three quarter ton.&nbsp; So I have learned alot today.&nbsp; <br><br>I have to be careful of the cars here because of hurricane Sandy.&nbsp; A lot of those cars have made it back to the streets to be sold and there are unscrupulous people that will take you to the cleaners at the drop of a hat.<br><br>I am learning a little at a time.&nbsp; Knowing what the oil and transmission fluid was suppose to look like helped so much.<br><br>Thank you for your advice.&nbsp; I am open to any information no matter how small.&nbsp; It may be the difference in helping me find a van.<br><br>kidie
 
You are doing a good job. Look for rear wheel drive and 3/4 ton or above. Also known as 2500. You will put more than 1000 pounds it it.<br><br>don't worry to much about millage as much as livability.<br><br>These work vans go well over 150000 miles if taken care off.<br><br>Best, James AKA Lynx
 
I am searching for some ford vans now.&nbsp; I have seen some with the metal racks and door behind the seats.&nbsp; Looks like they would be nice for all the camping gear.&nbsp; lol&nbsp; Oh my this is exhausting.&nbsp; Once I find my van I think it will get easier.&nbsp;&nbsp; I did find one E150 with 70,000 miles, one owner in Virginia.&nbsp; $8989.&nbsp; The only problem is it's a long way to drive to find out it is a dud.&nbsp; <br>I'ma keep on trying. <br>Thanks James AKA Lynx
 
just a little heads up for everyone.&nbsp; car fax only shows data that is reported by some shops, &nbsp;many shops do not report.&nbsp; some unscrupulous dealers will go out of the way to take repairs to shops that don't report or do repairs in house.&nbsp; highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger.&nbsp; Thanks for the info.&nbsp; I guess there is a "get around" for just about every thing.&nbsp; Drats!&nbsp; I thought that silly car/fox was gona tell the truth about cars.&nbsp; I know... build a better lock and some one will build a new key.&nbsp; <br>I found another Astro.&nbsp; <br>http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...ingId=345841475&amp;listingIndex=57&amp;Log=0<br>This looks fairly nice.&nbsp; Located in Virginia.&nbsp; Wish I could zoom in on the pictures though.&nbsp;&nbsp; Guess I will call them tomorrow.&nbsp;&nbsp; I am not giving up.&nbsp; Luci wants to ride in a van and I want to bring my bag of tools, Sears has the best tools.&nbsp; Love it....<br><br>"Classified ad....Wanted one hertz rent a man to help with car evaluation.&nbsp; Must be experienced in car engines.&nbsp; Requirement for hire... Bring wife to job site", lol. (joking)<br><br>Thanks again to every one.
 
You may want to avoid front wheel drive vans. Most need major transmission repair soon after 100,000 miles and it is costly.<br><br>James AKA Lynx<br><br>car/fox - fleet vehicles are also not included.
 
James AKA Lynx.........&nbsp; I was wondering about that.&nbsp; I see AWD and RWD on a lot of the ads and wondered if AWD would be better.&nbsp; I haven't seen FWD though, at least not yet, but I'm sure I will come across it. <br>Thanks to ya again....
 
<p>AWD can be better in winter conditions, however is more complex like a 4 WD it has a transfer case and front wheel drive components. This means more maintenance and more things to go wrong. Off of the pavement AWD wont help as much as 4WD even thought it has many of the same components. A 4WD has 1 wheel on each axle driving and an AWD has only 1 of the 4 wheels that has traction is driving. I prefer a RWD van over the AWD just because it is easier to maintain and repair.<br><br><br><br><br><br><br></p>
 
Spirituallifetime....&nbsp; Now I had that figured all wrong.&nbsp; I thought AWD would be better and was like 4WD and would be like a jeep riding on the beach.&nbsp; How deceiving the terms are.&nbsp; RWD sounded like it would be weaker pushing all the weight of the van.&nbsp; If I remember correctly my old Geo metro was FWD and could zip along in the snow and ice so I have always thought that would be better,&nbsp; pulling the car.<br>Okay.&nbsp; I am slow but I am learning something here.&nbsp; OMGoodness.&nbsp; An old dog is learning new tricks. lol<br>Thank you
 
The hard part for me is when non mechanically oriented people ask me to pick out a car. My recent response has been cheapest car new with a long warranty. Even armed with the knowledge of my 50 years working on cars pulling engines transmissions clutch jobs brake jobs valve jobs you name it THE CARS OF TODAY ARE A NEW BREED (The reason I stick with diesels) A few people still remind me of the fact that "remember that car you told me to buy" in closing If you can find a inline 6 in a truck or van chevy or ford pre 78 buy it. Take it to a mechanic and pay to have them FIX IT UP. If the body is clean probably the easiest car to re-sell. Always think about the resale value A lot of junk vehicles on the road not worth spit.
 
If you are uncertain just take it to a local mechanic. It's your safest bet if you don't know much about cars.

As for Carfax.... That is an issue of it's own, Carfax is voluntary and self reporting. No one is forced to give them any info.

A quick example, my truck was in a crash after I first bought it. 12k in damage, yet it has a clean title and clean Carfax.

To put it simply, Carfax is highly over rated and is just a very well done marketing campaign. They are actually being sued by a group of dealers for this reason, among others.
 
&nbsp;I agree re. getting a 3/4 ton vs a 1/4 or 1/2 ton van. The suspension components &amp; driveline are generally MUCH stronger and, while you can carry less than the rated weight in a 3/4 T, you can't carry (legally) MORE than the rated weight in a 1/2 T. I don't know how many times I've heard people go on about 3/4 T vehicles getting bad fuel economy, and that's a crock o' $hit. That's more a function of the engine/driveline than anything else. Compared to the weight of the vehicle, the beefier suspension/rear axle/tires makes for a minimal weight increase. Get one with a full-floating rear-end too, and Posi if possible. <br>&nbsp;It rather amuses me to read posts from people who, instead of buying a heavier duty vehicle in the first place, spend tons of money upgrading the suspension in order to make up for the lack. In the end, one is still left with a compromise. Speaking of which, one thing you'll get with the 3/4 T is MUCH beefier brakes, and that's NOT something that's easy to 'upgrade' with a lighter duty vehicle. When ya start loading down the vehicle with stuff, getting heavier 'n heavier, you'll wanna be able to slow down/stop all that rollin' weight safely. ..Willy.
 
Now I had that figured all wrong.&nbsp; I thought AWD would be better and was like 4WD and would be like a jeep riding on the beach.&nbsp; How deceiving the terms are.&nbsp; RWD sounded like it would be weaker pushing all the weight of the van.&nbsp; If I remember correctly my old Geo metro was FWD and could zip along in the snow and ice so I have always thought that would be better,&nbsp; pulling the car.<br>
<br><br>I like how FWD cars drive too, the problem with them the rubber boots on the cv joints crack and grease comes out and the dirt goes in then they&nbsp;quickly wear out and costs several hundred dollars to replace them.&nbsp;When test driving a&nbsp;FWD turn the steering wheel all the way to the&nbsp;right and drive forward&nbsp;then do that again to the left, if you hear a clicking sound the cv joints are worn out and need to be replaced.&nbsp;All vehicles that are designed to haul a lot of weight are RWD and have no problems pushing the weight. I agree with Willy a 3/4 ton van would do a good job of hauling the weight, look for Ford E250, Chevy/GMC 2500, Dodge Ram 2500. These van are in 3 different interiors cargo, passenger and conversion. I would avoid the passenger van so you won't have to remove the seats, cargo vans can customized the way you want it to be and usually sell for less money than the passenger and conversion vans.
 
I live in NJ now. The vehicles don't have heavy rust until they are in a flood or 20 years old. <br><br>FWD are easier to drive. RWD are easiest to repair or maintain (less money). AWD and 4WD are most expensive to repair and maintain.
 
If you can afford a better vehicle go to a franchised dealer. GM Ford Dodge What ever your choice. They will find you a nice trade in and most will stand behind what they sell you.
 
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