Van Hasn't Run For 8 Years, Starting It

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That is a simple fix.  It also helps you get familiar with the motor.
 
Hopefully when you pull valve covers to do the gaskets there is no Sludge.

I was pleased to see mine looking like this recently:
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Though the underside of the valvecover could have been better:
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Get a few Q tips and get all the old oil from the valve cover bolt receptacles in heads. Mine loosened up several times which is likely why I had to replace the gaskets.

I've been usng Mobil 1 synthetic in various grades for about 25K miles and castrol or valvoline conventional before that. Time based oil changes rather than mileage. the last one was 18 months, but low miles.
 
That's interesting SternWake and looks doable and cheap
I think this big leaky thing is part of the transmission.  It doesn't look doable.
How serious is this, how expensive to fix and how hard to fix?
Thanks
 

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The oil all seems to be coming from the motor.  

It desperately needs a tune up kit.
 
that oil you are showing is on the transmission but it's coming from the engine. more then likely the valve cover gaskets like what Got Smart and Stern already said.

I already said it before, if you are ever planning on getting this van running you need to clean up all that organic matter. the sticks underneath and now I see leaves on the floorboard. all that contributes to rust. it doesn't cost you a thing to clean it up. the leaves on the floor leads me to believe a windows open = not good. highdesertranger
 
my favorite cleaner is hot water,dish soap and a scrub brush
might just want to invest in a full engine gasket set instead of buying individual gaskets


man stern,i hope mine looks half that good when i open it up
 
Gary68 said:
man stern,i hope mine looks half that good when i open it up
 Well the engine was rebuilt in ~2004, about 42k miles ago, and presumably spotless then.  Last time I had valvecovers off was in 2006 and looking at pictures taken then,  appear nearly exactly the same.  I tried using Mobil1 in 2007, and as it stopped all cold startup valvetrain clatter, and as 5 quart jugs are not much more than conventional at wally world, ever since.


My valvecovers recently got the dawn dishsoap and scrub brush treatment inside and out  Hot water would have been good.  I made up for it with extra Dawn dishsoap  The varnish inside valvecover pretty much disappeared with that treatment and Some acetone on a paper towel got most of the rest.

I'd love to see some pics of how well those smartphone borescope kits work.

Use come compressed air and or a shopvac and a pic  to loosen up the grime from around the spark plug holes before removing the plugs entirely.  Mine were in there since 2006 or so and so much cramp could have fallen inside the cylinders had I not been ther with a shopvac and tools to prevent that possibility.
 
to make your life easier next time you do a plug change, put copper anti seize on the threads
 
I just spoke to the owner of a local body shop.  He has 30 years experience and we talked for about 45 minutes.

He will come out and look at the rust for $45.  It's worth that to potentially prevent wasting thousands.  

After talking he told me to take pictures and he would come out only if there was something of concern.  I sent him the pics I had.  He wants pictures of every piece of rust and bore scope pics too. 

I'd rather he just come out and get it over with but it is nice that he is trying to be so helpful.

He can't come out until after he closes this coming week sometime.  Patience...

Before making a decision to do the rebuild 3 things need to happen
1) pass the rust inspection
2) the cylinders look passable
3) it starts

well... at least #1 for sure
 
Wandering Giraffe said:
Hello,
I am glad I found this place and people.  I have a fixer upper that I want to move into asap but that isn't looking very soon.  Lots of work to do.

I have a 1991 Dodge B250 (77,000 miles) van that hasn't been started for 8 years and has some minor front end damage and a dislodged sliding cargo door.

The oil looks normal but will be changed along with all the other fluids after it starts.  The radiator is full.  I have a new battery.

I siphoned out the gas.  There wasn't much left.  But it was full of rust and had some crispy black chunks in it.  Wax I guess.

I would love to crank it up and drive it 20 or 30 feet before putting more money into it.

I would like feedback on my plan.  This weekend I am thinking about

1) Removing the spark plugs and spraying Kroll into the cylinders.
2) Putting in 5 gallons of gas, hoping the contaminants will be diluted and caught in the fuel filter
3) priming the carburetor by turning on the ignition repeatedly or manually if needed
4) Starting it up
5) Driving it 20-30 feet
6) Doing the happy dance

The original plan was to disconnect the fuel line and pour gas into the carburetor to get it started.  Then I started wanting to see if it would drive. 

I want to make sure it is working before putting a lot of time and money into it.  In fact it is pretty much all I have thought about for a while.  I want to know soon this is the right direction or switch to working on getting another van. 

So any advice on what to do now or in the process of getting it back on the road would be welcome.

Thanks for the help

Whatever happened with your van?
 
Guess is he's about halfway thru inspection and replacement requirements
 
Might still be passed out from hearing the body shop guy’s estimate...
 
How about reviving a truck that sat for a quarter century?

 
MrNoodly said:
How about reviving a truck that sat for a quarter century?



barn find guys do it all the time - follow many/most of the same suggestions as above unless they just repower.
 
I recommend you find another van.I wouldn't take that van as a gift.
 
bigskybob said:
I recommend you find another van.I wouldn't take that van as a gift.

That's not a fair statement. Just because it's been sitting dosent mean it's garbage. Just means it will need some work.
 
I've been down that road before.After spending $2000 on a cheap van,I had a $1000 van.
 
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