Using your vehicle's built-in features while camped

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thebarefootbadger

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I just bought a new Sienna I intend to turn into a camper.  As I look around my pretty new ride, I'm realizing that a lot of the amenities I'd want in my "home" are already present.  There's a good radio and speakers, nice lights recessed into the ceiling, the ability to circulate air, built in wifi, possibly more.  It's a minivan, so these features are also already duplicated in the living space, not just the front seats.

In my perfect world I wouldn't be duplicating the appliances I already have, both for cost, aesthetic and space reasons, but I also wouldn't be jeopardizing my car's ability to start by potentially running down the car batteries. 

I can see a number of different possibilities and I'm not sure which are actually possible or make sense.  For this example, let's say it's the dome light I'm interested in.

Possibility 1:  The dome light is powered as always while I'm driving.  I've installed a coach battery that charges while I'm driving.  When I park I flip a switch and now the dome light is powered by the coach battery.

Possibility 2:  All of my accessories get switched over permanently so they're always running off that coach battery, whether I'm driving or not.

Possibility 3: The coach battery is incorporated into the car system and simply provides more power to the car at any time, including when it's parked.  I leave the car in accessory mode and I can use all the built ins with less concern about running out of juice.

Possibility 4: the old fashioned way.  The coach battery gets charged up while I'm driving or otherwise, and when I turn off the car the dome light is no longer used for anything but a quick emergency, I have a separate light source for camping.

Possibility 4 is the one I'm trying to avoid, but as I say, the other options might not be possible in a new electronic-heavy hybrid car.  Any thoughts?
 
You could pull the dome light fuse then run a (fused) wire from the coach battery to the fuse box so the light is always powered by the coach battery.
 
You are likely to drive yourself crazy over thinking about this subject.

You are mostly going to want specific task lighting rather than that general lighting from the dome light. For instance a buit in reading light in the bed area, a light where you do food prep. Also portable lighting to take outside or move around inside. A headlamp for things such as repairs or fine detail task work or for going outside on a quick inspection tour or watering a tree at night.

People who live full time on the road tend to go to bed early and get up early. That means much of the time you will not need artificial lights.
 
This is something I've been thinking about too.

I have gone for days at a time with regular use of the radio, some use of the dome light and occasional opening and closing of windows. Even in
cold weather, this hasn't bothered the starting battery. I've come up with several Ideas that involve separate wires, fuses and switches for such things as the radio and fan in particular and a few other things while I'm at it.

Then, one morning while I was waiting for water to boil for coffee, I re-aimed the solar panel that supplements my house battery. I stood there and stared at it for a moment and gave my head a shake.

The new plan it to form a reasonable estimate of the demand of the electrical things in the car that I want to use and add a solar panel and voltage meter to the starter battery.

MG
 
Generally speaking you do not want to use factory stuff like the radio, dome lights, heater, air conditioner, or even the fan while parked. these components are either made to be used with the engine running or for a very short time while the engine is off. They are not very efficient.

With most modern vehicles trying to adapt them to run off a house battery turns into a nightmare of wiring because most of the stuff is computer controlled and/or you end up back feeding power into other things.

Highdesertranger
 
Only thing I can think of is to replace the battery with an optima deep cycle and add a small solar panel. You will want a low voltage alarm.

Going totally separate is a lot simpler. Of course buying a Prius or the like makes it even simpler.
 
I've got a minivan. I completely turned off the inside lights and I have a headlamp and a USB lantern and that's all I use when I'm out (I'm not a full-timer).
 
I've been thinking about this some more since I first posted. The key would have to be in the ignition position to use the fan and that would eliminate the isolation between the batteries from the relay and probably power lots of things that I didn't want powered. At least I got a chance to exercise my brain. Now that I think about it some more I always find it a bit irritating that I have to turn to IGN to control the windows. With that in mind I have been working on a design to work ventilation and a fan into the panels on the front windows so I can just leave the windows open and control the airflow with the fan. I've had no problem leaving the key in ACC for days at a time and turning the radio on and off. The radio is easier to reach than the ignition from bed.

MG
 
Get a couple of Luci lights, put them on the dashboard during the day to recharge them. Problem solved for general lighting without draining your starter battery. No rewiring needed.
 
maki2 said:
Get a couple of Luci lights, put them on the dashboard during the day to recharge them. Problem solved for general lighting without draining your starter battery. No rewiring needed.

What she said!  ^    :thumbsup:
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I have no qualms about using my dome light to deal with things in the middle of the night. It uses almost no power and is about 2-3 feet from my face. Can't talk me out of that one. If someone is on the edge about a few minutes of dome light power usage, there are LED replacements for most of them. I haven't switched because many LED lights make me sick since my head injury.

The stereo/radio? As I said, I've used it for days at a time. It wouldn't take much of a panel just to make sure. I didn't haul around a great stereo so I can listen to music on ear bud. The Grateful Dead need at least 6 speakers.

MG
 
To be honest, the ventilation is my biggest issue. It's not uncommon that the ambient temperature here is over 105, and the car gets unbelievably hot even with insulation. Sleeping is a nightmare unless I've got at least a fan running after the sun goes down. Add stealth to that and it's both stifling and suffocating. I'd really like to run the AC, but barring that at least use the car's venting system to bring in fresh cooler air. Yes, I can run a 12V fan off a separate coach battery, but how much less cluttered to just use what's already here.
 
I hear you.

After second thoughts and what the others said I'm going to leave the electrical part of it alone. Especially because the fan is on the IGN key setting and so is the isolation solenoid for the deep cycle.

But, I have another idea. My car and many others these days have the cabin fan under the dash (mine is behind the glove compartment). On my Kia there is a filter above the fan and above the filter is access to where the air comes in from up near the wipers. I ran the cable to my deep cycle through this way.

I haven't yet done a hands on review of this idea but I think it would be easy to put cardboard or something on top of or in place of the filter. Then I could mount a 12 v fan from my deep cycle to either bring fresh air in or push air out. I'm leaning toward an exhaust fan with all the windows open just a bit.

It would have to be something simple since it would likely be a daily event.

MG
 
The fan in the factory heater/AC is very inefficient. You would be much better off running a aftermarket low amp draw fan. Highdesertranger
 
That's what I'm thinking. I want to put my own fan blowing air out through the same route that the car system draws air in. I've already spent time with my head and arms in the area and I think I can permanently mount a fan to do this. Installation will probably be a one time pain in the ass but if part of it is a flue or diverter that I just have to pull or turn to switch uses, I'm blessed.. Then I can exhaust air from the front floor level and have make-up air from the windows.

MG
 
With several windows open for ventilation and a fan the principles of physics will do the work of eqaulizing the air pressure difference. No need to do anything complex.

I can see that you have the heart of an inventor but have some catching up to do for physics and engineering principles. No worries about that, there a lots of free online courses for it including some on airflow dynamics. You will come up with a solution that works for your vehicle. But you are not taking into account the back pressure created in those rambling direction air ducts. A single fan with louvers to prevent rain intrusion mounted into a panel that fits in a window opening will consume less electricity for the volume of air exchange. A comptuer fan that is wired with a switch and uses 12v is a good candidate as the are easy to obtain. Also easy to store away when not in use.
 
Neither of my last 2 posts said anything about using the fan or the rambling air ducts of my car car.
The air intake for all cabin air functions is an unobstructed opening from up near the right wiper on the outside (though hard to see and reach) to near the air filter and fan behind the glove compartment.
This intake is about 20 square inches and a little over 1 foot long. Everything I mentioned previously takes place in this area above the filter and fan and without including the filter or fan.

I've looked and had my hands in both ends of this intake because this is the route I used to run a cable to my deep cycle battery, which is on the floor below the glove compartment.
What I am suggesting, proposing and thinking of doing is installing my own 12 volt exhaust fan in the car (yes, there's room) to blow air into the intake and out of the car
This would create a lower pressure inside my car and draw in air from outside through the windows.
Sitting in front of a fan often feels cooler at the moment than use of an exhaust fan but it actually increases the pressure inside.
It is actually better to exhaust the air and lower the pressure,

Yes, I could hang a fan in the window. Where's the fun in that? I have a box of assorted 12 volt fans.


MG
 

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