tx2sturgis said:
The advantage for some is that they already own either the dorm fridge or the inverter.
The advantage for others is the front opening or the very quiet, fanless operation of most dorm fridges.
Another advantage is the nearly 100% reliability of the dorm fridge simple mechanical thermostat, and long life of the typical dorm fridge, and if it does crap out, it's about $100 or maybe less for a whole new fridge, versus the high replacement cost for a new 12v fridge or its electronic control board. Replacement parts might be un-available in 5 years.
Another advantage is the fact that the inverter can be used to power other items in the van or camper. I also have used both, and both solutions worked well for me.
If you are buying everything brand new and cost is no object, AND you have room for a chest type fridge, then the high quality 12v dual zone units like the Engel, Whynter, Dometic or Luna are the way to go. You can spend just under $1000 and get a nice front-opening 12v truck fridge (Indel-B) type or Novacool, but a fairly complex installation is required and you know, they are kinda pricey!
But a simple countertop dorm fridge/inverter combo is not a bad way to go, especially if the inverter you use is one that has an automatic (and energy saving) 'sleep' or 'standby' function.
These are the issues I had. In addition, I don’t have 12V outside the cockpit. I don’t trust myself with electrical upgrades, so adding outlets is an added expense.
I have a rare class B with quality, solid wood cabinets I don’t want to tear down. There is no fixed place for a chest fridge, except on the tub, and the limit there is 23x29. Otherwise, I’d have to move it up and down the aisle to access the kitchen, bathroom, and cockpit. I did consider a large Dometic on wheels for that reason. But I already have mobility issues, I don’t need to add another obstacle.
There isn’t enough depth where the propane fridge was removed. I’d have to buy an expensive compressor fridge to fit there. Instead, I spent $115 for a counter height dorm fridge — using the styrofoam it came in to pad it — and spent the difference on a lithium battery. I may add a second under the hood. I considered removing the microwave and the shelf it was on to fit a 6 cubic ft model with separate freezer, but why complicate things?
I just turned on the dorm fridge Monday and my battery only went down 10% in the 12 hours of darkness overnight (6pm - 6 am). I even forgot to turn the fridge down from the max setting before I left the van the night before.
I’ve also bought an upright Wynter counter height freezer with a similar footprint. That can go on the tub with a board and bungee, with room to spare. I may have an uncle demo the tub and build storage to maximize that space (to hold as Yeti and add general storage). The only way a 12V would fit without wasting vertical space is if we put sturdy slide out rails, so we could pull it out over the toilet.
Granted, I’ve overspent on electrical. But I’ll also use that for other needs — appliances, induction cooktop, heat, and charging devices. I removed my propane tank, as it was 30 years old and rusty. I decided not to replace it, as I’m not comfortable with propane and also plan to urban boondock, with propane banned in tunnels into the city.
I’ve brought this up before, but most Skoolie builds I see seem to have dorm or full-sized household fridges. I guess it’s due to having more rooftop real estate, room for batteries, and often larger budget.
ETA: if my dorm fridge dies, I can replace it for $100 the same day at Target, Walmart, Best Buy, Sams, Costco...
