Upgrades to my RV

[Freelander]

It seems every time I go out I found more things to add or upgrade. I have already added a ton of things to make life easier, now I have more things I need to change, replace, remove, or upgrade.

I added a 30 amp 12v plug to the outside so I could run a small 500 watt inverter to power my Treager Ranger Grill, now I am going to upgrade that in a few months. I plan on adding a 1000 watt inverter with a remote power button under my sink area, and wiring in at least two 110v AC plugs out of it. I would use my 500 watt inverter but it doesn't have a remote. I will have to run 4 AWG cables and a 80 amp fuse for it.

I will add one 110v plug to the outside, and one to the inside.


Next I have 400 watts of solar, but it never seems to be enough to keep things charged, so I will add an external Solar plugin connector to the outside so I can plug in a 200 watt portable panel.

Then I have a WIFI booster antennia mounted on the inside, so I am going to move it to the outside, and run the wire through the side and to the Hotspot.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Always a work in progress!

 

[bullfrog]

You definitely cannot but a one size fits all RV to live full time in!

 

[Cammalu]

Freelander. When you add the outside panels do you have to configure things differently? Somewhere, way back in the cobwebs of my cottage cheese, I seem to remember something about not mixing panels.

I thought about that today because my sis bought a suitcase a couple days ago then today purchased a couple 100 watt panels for her roof.

I just can’t grasp what it was about mixing panels.

 

[Freelander]

I will probably configure the 200 watt panels as 2 single 100 watt panels. I'll have to look into it more.

 

[Freelander]

Another thing I was thinking about, is I saw a video of somebody that was using a rooftop panel for a portable, it was the one that they used on the roof, and he had made a stand for it.

 

[GntlStone]

You can likely add a couple of hinges onto the frame on the back with a couple of legs or a U or H shaped brace. It would allow for adjustment of angles. H or U shaped legs would be stronger because of the bracing, the difference between them being that U might require level ground vs H.

 

[Freelander]

Actually I was thinking about something this this.

https://www.renogy.com/rv-tilt-mount-brackets/

 

[Uncle Todo]

Always a work in progress indeed!

One thing I like about doing my first go in a van, I'm rather limited in how much I can add!

For 110 outlets I'll have two, one behind the drivers seat and the other on the side just behind the sliding door. Then if I need power outside I can run a cord through the sliding door's window, or just open the door itself.

Solar is on my list of things to add, but initially I'll be depending on alternator charging.
I'd been looking at a 100w panel, but after finding SanTan on here, I'll probably do a higher wattage panel.
Maybe even two, I'd planned to add one on my FG high top behind the roof vent, but now thinking one in front as well.
Initial planning was with stealth in mind, so with that out the window a 2nd panel easily fits.

 

[Freelander]

I have an extra set of branch connectors, and I can add 2 100watts panels easily. I will have to check my solar power over the next few weeks, and see what I need.

 

[highdesertranger]

If you are mixing different panels on the same controller they need to be close in voltage. The watts don't matter but the volts do. If you want to mix panels with different voltage just use different controllers for each set of panels. I have a 50watt hard mount panel that I use for a portable, it has it's own controller, works great. highdesertranger

 

[Freelander]

The folding portable panels I'm looking at have the same voltage as the ones on the roof, 17.7. so they should work.

They will be all Renogy Panels.

 

[GntlStone]

Actually I was thinking about something this this.

https://www.renogy.com/rv-tilt-mount-brackets/

Looks good. Triangles are always strong. 
You can likely reiplicate the same thing with $15 worth of hardware from the store if you are DIY inclined, otherwise its not a crazy price from Renogy.

 

[GntlStone]

Solar is on my list of things to add, but initially I'll be depending on alternator charging.
I'd been looking at a 100w panel, but after finding SanTan on here, I'll probably do a higher wattage panel.
Maybe even two, I'd planned to add one on my FG high top behind the roof vent, but now thinking one in front as well.
Initial planning was with stealth in mind, so with that out the window a 2nd panel easily fits.

From what Ive read, the recommendation is to have 2x as much solar as battery. So a 105 usable ah battery bank should have a minimum of 200 watts of solar, 200ah=400w, etc. Also voltage impacts rate of charge, higher is faster, but may require a mppt solar controller.

 

[user 423]

If you are mixing different panels on the same controller they need to be close in voltage.  The watts don't matter but the volts do. 

I have 100w and 80w mono Renogy panels and the 80w has a 2 volts higher rating. Is this close enough?

 

[GntlStone]

I have 100w and 80w mono Renogy panels and the 80w has a 2 volts higher rating. Is this close enough?

My (limited) understanding is that it will limit the charge rate to the lower of the voltages, so you would only lose those 2v.  If one charged at 50v and the other at 25v and you use both at once on the same controller you would be limited to 25v for each panel.

Experts, please correct me where/if I'm incorrect.