Troubleshooting solar issues

[justamaninavan]

You can still keep tweaking the egg timer until Absorb is held long enough, watch amps with any shunt BM or ammeter, $20-30 on eBay

Using 14.4 should be fine, long as not going to Float early, endAmps could go lower than .005C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013...s_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D9FSWDZJ56KNK5AJEWTJ

Will this do the job?

 

[John61CT]

Probably, but I thought of this, also counts accumulated AH and is widely used

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001B6N2WK

With anything like this, don't exceed rated ampacity

 

[John61CT]

This may be the OEM of that Bayite unit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017FSED9I

 

[justamaninavan]

This may be the OEM of that Bayite unit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017FSED9I

As far as I can tell, this Bayite unit shows the level of amps going out. It looks good to me it has 714 reviews at 4 1/2 stars, so I'm gonna go with that one. Unless you believe the other one you suggested to me is essential with the extra setting. 

For the sake of me knowing we are 100% on the same page, this is what I believe your telling me.

1. I should buy this shunt monitor and connect it to my batteries at the same time as my charge controller. 
2. My charge controller absorb and float charge mode settings should be set to 14.4v with no other loads connected, to verify the volts stay the same.
3. To keep charging until the shunt monitor says .5a, then write down the voltage on the shunt monitor.
4. Leave batteries alone till the next day, write down the voltage, and post it to here.

With that said I still have two questions. 
1. Is boost charge and absorb voltage the same thing?
There is no absorb voltage setting on my charge controller or mt-50 that i can find, I'm only asking cause on some other forum some guy was speaking about boost and absorb like their the same thing.
2. When you say. 005c to start as endamps. Is this a setting on the shunt based monitor or something else entirely? Same as before I cannot find any section regarding c on my charge controller or mt-50.

 

[John61CT]

Yes, the standard term is Absorb, that company uses boost.

Since your SC has no ability to determine Absorb hold time based on endAmps, you are figuring out how to get there with its simplistic egg timer.

This first step is with no loads.

If you will usually have loads, then that hold timer will need to be extended.

You keep adjusting until it's reliably getting to 100% Full (as per endAmps) all the time just based on time alone.

If it turns out you never get to full, then you need more solar, or to cut consumption.

Or live with replacing the bank more often than if you were charging it properly.

 

[John61CT]

I think the known reliability of the other, plus the fact it will be more generally useful in telling you how much energy a given load is using over time, makes it worth spending the extra $10

 

[justamaninavan]

I think the known reliability of the other, plus the fact it will be more generally useful in telling you how much energy a given load is using over time, makes it worth spending the extra $10

Just bought it. It'll be delivered on the 6th, so I'll post my results on the 7th or 8th.

 

[justamaninavan]

I think the known reliability of the other, plus the fact it will be more generally useful in telling you how much energy a given load is using over time, makes it worth spending the extra $10

I just finished reading the manual, questions, answers and reviews on the power meter on amazon. I still cannot figure out how to connect these to my batteries. Any ideas?

 

[John61CT]

Is this more clear than what's in the manual?

http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/ammeters/3-wire-meter-connection.html

 

[justamaninavan]

Is this more clear than what's in the manual?

http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/ammeters/3-wire-meter-connection.html

Honestly no. In the diagram it says to connect them with plug connectors and socket connectors. Yet when I Google or look those terms up on amazon, nothing looks like they would work in my situation. I emailed them yesterday and am still waiting for a reply.

 

[John61CT]

Are you saying you're not familiar with crimping terminators?

I would use the right size Anderson Powerpole connectors, so it's easy to add or remove the meter to use in different spots.

As with all termination/connector types, they require a special crimper when you get up to high amps current.

Might be cheaper to order just the connectors and take it all to an auto electric, or find a guy with the tools in Craig's.

 

[justamaninavan]

Are you saying you're not familiar with crimping terminators?

I would use the right size Anderson Powerpole connectors, so it's easy to add or remove the meter to use in different spots.

As with all termination/connector types, they require a special crimper when you get up to high amps current.

Might be cheaper to order just the connectors and take it all to an auto electric, or find a guy with the tools in Craig's.

That is what I'm saying. I will look into finding someone with that special crimper.

 

[frater secessus]

This wikipedia page has a list of DC connectors with pictures. 

It includes the most common connectors used in campervan builds:  anderson, SAE, ciggy (shiver), MC4, etc.   It's a long page but like a dork I just read the whole thing. 

 

[justamaninavan]

This wikipedia page has a list of DC connectors with pictures. 

It includes the most common connectors used in campervan builds:  anderson, SAE, ciggy (shiver), MC4, etc.   It's a long page but like a dork I just read the whole thing. 

Are there any options where I wouldn't have to pay someone with a special crimper?

 

[John61CT]

If you're going to do a lot and you like spending money to collect good quality tools, here's some good starting points

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

generally if budget allows, you want good quality tinned marine wire and terminals, mfg like Ancor, AMP/Tyco, and FTZ

Otherwise 3M is OK, example connectors

https://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...+WIRE+CONNECTORS+ASSORTMENT+AUTOMOTIVE+MARINE

for heavier gauges http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables

But otherwise, use genuinedealz.com, custom to your order, excellent quality, only $1 per termination labor charge.

 

[frater secessus]

Are there any options where I wouldn't have to pay someone with a special crimper?

A crimper/cutter/stripper is a really useful tool to have.  There are special (and $$$) tools for the Anderson stuff but it is common to use a plain jane crimper on the smaller gauges.   Plenty of highly-rated crimpers on Amazon for under $20.  And plenty of pro-grade ones for much more.

It's a bit of a watch, but this is a terrific YT tutorial on wire termination with 800k views.   The guy's a good teacher, IMO.

 

[SoulRaven]

It's a bit of a watch, but this is a terrific YT tutorial on wire termination with 800k views.   The guy's a good teacher, IMO.

I totally agree.  Lots of good info.

 

[klg61]

I have 3 100 Watt Renogy solar panels, 1 30A MPPT charge controller (Epever 3210A), and 2 100 AH universal battery AGMs. It has been hooked up since yesterday morning with nothing plugged in, and it is currently 1:37 pm and sunny. Yet my charge controller says my panels are at 20.9V and giving .4A, with my battery at 13.8V and taking .6A. 
My limited knowledge would say my solar should be generating much more electricity. Except, I have checked all connections and they seem to be connected correctly. So my question to you all is could this be a charge controller or battery issue? Or possibly something else I haven't considered?


Thank you

13.8 v..your battery is pretty much topped off. the closer your batterys get to being full the less your charger will take

 

[justamaninavan]

If you're going to do a lot and you like spending money to collect good quality tools, here's some good starting points

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

generally if budget allows, you want good quality tinned marine wire and terminals, mfg like Ancor, AMP/Tyco, and FTZ

Otherwise 3M is OK, example connectors

https://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...+WIRE+CONNECTORS+ASSORTMENT+AUTOMOTIVE+MARINE

for heavier gauges http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables

But otherwise, use genuinedealz.com, custom to your order, excellent quality, only $1 per termination labor charge.

I just checked my mppt ccntroller and it is showing no display on it or on my MT-50. To my knowledge, I've done nothing to mess with it and double checked all connections. My solar panels came with a Renogy adventure model pwm charge controller. Which leaves me with 1 question.

1. Should I disconnect my panels in the meantime and connect to my pwm, keep it connected to mppt, or just disconnect everything?

 

[highdesertranger]

get your meter and start checking. call Renogy. highdesertranger