Troubleshooting solar issues

[jonsun]

Here's what you need to do

-user under menu 4 controller config
-set amps hours of bank
-set max voltage to 16.2v
-over voltage reconnect 14.8v
-equalize voltage 15.8v
-boost voltage 14.8v
-float voltage to 14.2v
-bosst voltage reconnect 13.7v
-set equalize and absorption/boost/whatever to 180 minutes
-leave low voltage disconnect and the rest alone


then you'll need to check acid levels a bit more often

 

[justamaninavan]

Here's what you need to do

-user under menu 4 controller config
-set amps hours of bank
-set max voltage to 16.2v
-over voltage reconnect 14.8v
-equalize voltage 15.8v
-boost voltage 14.8v
-float voltage to 14.2v
-bosst voltage reconnect 13.7v
-set equalize and absorption/boost/whatever to 180 minutes
-leave low voltage disconnect and the rest alone


then you'll need to check acid levels a bit more often

If my boost voltage is 14.8v, and my float voltage is 14.2v. Am I losing .6v every time my charge controller goes into float mode? Or when I start using power does it go back up to 14.8v?

 

[jonsun]

if you're in float and you put a load on it wont go into bulk until the voltage drops to the bulk reconnect voltage. which I specified to set at 13.7v (I believe that is the max it allows). Then it will slowly try to climb to 14.8v once you've essentially forced bulk.

the reason you're setting float so high like that is to maximize your charging window. It's way too high for a float voltage otherwise...but we dont have all day to top off the battery. That is the main reason yours drops so fast. Your batteries are essentially sulfated from too low of voltages and never really getting charged fully. The high equalization voltage (can even try 16v+ here) should help the issue too.

and again these settings will boil the batteries more so you need to check them more often. Its nothing crazy just you know a few more milliliters than usual.

 

[justamaninavan]

if you're in float and you put a load on it wont go into bulk until the voltage drops to the bulk reconnect voltage. which I specified to set at 13.7v (I believe that is the max it allows). Then it will slowly try to climb to 14.8v once you've essentially forced bulk.

the reason you're setting float so high like that is to maximize your charging window. It's way too high for a float voltage otherwise...but we dont have all day to top off the battery. That is the main reason yours drops so fast. Your batteries are essentially sulfated from too low of voltages and never really getting charged fully. The high equalization voltage (can even try 16v+ here) should help the issue too.

and again these settings will boil the batteries more so you need to check them more often. Its nothing crazy just you know a few more milliliters than usual.

How would I go about checking the acid levels? I thought that agm batteries were fume free.

 

[John61CT]

I disagree with above where it conflicts, but not getting into the weeds. Don't auto equalize nor over-voltage, these are sealed. So no checking water either.

> I am not sure what you mean

Put your ammeter on, watch current level as it charges.

Charge should continue at Absorb voltage as amps fall, as SoC gets close to full the rate drops, until it reads half an amp per batt, that is the purest definition of 100% Full, long as there are no other loads, measuring what is going into the battery.

That is the point charger can be allowed to drop to Float, after is OK (lower amps) but not sooner (higher amps).

With loads going you need a shunt based batt monitor to see that.

1A if 200AH, 2A if 400.

Some, mfg may give a different endAmps spec, but this .005C is OK to use in general for lead.

 

[justamaninavan]

Here's what you need to do

-user under menu 4 controller config
-set amps hours of bank
-set max voltage to 16.2v
-over voltage reconnect 14.8v
-equalize voltage 15.8v
-boost voltage 14.8v
-float voltage to 14.2v
-bosst voltage reconnect 13.7v
-set equalize and absorption/boost/whatever to 180 minutes
-leave low voltage disconnect and the rest alone


then you'll need to check acid levels a bit more often

1. When I try to change max voltage to 16.2v (closest sounding one I have is charge limit, I'm only adding these parentheses to double check their the same thing) it says para. error.
2.over voltage rec works at 14.8v 
3. Equalize voltage (equal charge) same para. error.
4. Boost voltage (boost charge) para. error 
5. Float voltage (float charge) works at 14.2v 
6. Boost voltage rec. works at 13.7v
7. Equalize and boost time work at 180 mins

 

[highdesertranger]

I don't think you are suppose to equalize AGM's. a note to everyone, when you equalize disconnect any loads. highdesertranger

 

[John61CT]

> How would I go about checking the acid levels? I thought that agm batteries were fume free.

Yes ignore that.

But they do offgas, you just can't replace the lost water.

One of many reasons to stick with flooded if possible.

 

[John61CT]

Yes only Lifeline still recommends equalizing.

 

[jonsun]

Didnt know they were AGM....Dont set voltages that high.

These controllers auto equalize on the 28th each month.

 

[jonsun]

The para errors happen if you dont first set max voltage above all others

 

[jonsun]

I would bring float to 14v to be safe. Trojan AGM says 14.8v for bulk so i guess thats ok. Maybe 14.7v to be safe.

 

[justamaninavan]

I disagree with above where it conflicts, but not getting into the weeds. Don't auto equalize nor over-voltage, these are sealed. So no checking water either.

> I am not sure what you mean

Put your ammeter on, watch current level as it charges.

Charge should continue at Absorb voltage as amps fal, as SoC gets close to full the rate drops, until it reads half an amp per batt, that is the purest definition of 100% Full, long as there are no other loads, measuring what is going into the battery.

That is the point charger can be allowed to drop to Float, after is OK (lower amps) but not sooner (higher amps).

With loads going you need a shunt based batt monitor to see that.

1A if 200AH, 2A if 400.

Some, mfg may give a different endAmps spec, but this .005C is OK to use in general for lead.

Ok so I just did a factory reset after I changed the parameters bardo suggested, and put my float and boost both to 14.4v like I believe you said. 
When you say "Put your ammeter on, watch current level as it charges. Charge should continue at Absorb voltage as amps fall" do you mean check current level on battery to make sure it's the same as on the charge controller? If so when I put the amp meter on my batteries it jumps from 12.7v - 13.1v

 

[GotSmart]

Setting float levels is information that should come from the company that made the battery. Not some guy online that “guesses “ at a voltage. 

Bardo does not know enough to give out that information. Go to the source. It is easy to kill a battery by programming bad information.

 

[jonsun]

Says the guy who "destroyed 400ah of batteries running a fridge"

 

[John61CT]

> These controllers auto equalize on the 28th each month

Which IMO no one should allow any charger to do automatically, just disable.

For appropriate chemistries, only do manually, as per, mfg spec'd protocol.

Ideally on an adjustable mains power supply, isolated from all loads, reading volts & amps accurately at the battery.

 

[John61CT]

> do you mean check current level on battery to make sure it's the same as on the charge controller

Not really, I'm saying completely ignore the controller's displays

I never trust the charge source's readings unless tested / calibrated against known-accurate independent meters.

The current being put out by the regulator often has little to do with what the bank is actually accepting.

Only the latter matters.

 

[justamaninavan]

Ok so I just did a factory reset after I changed the parameters bardo suggested, and put my float and boost both to 14.4v like I believe you said. 
When you say "Put your ammeter on, watch current level as it charges. Charge should continue at Absorb voltage as amps fall" do you mean check current level on battery to make sure it's the same as on the charge controller? If so when I put the amp meter on my batteries it jumps from 12.7v - 13.1v

I downloaded a PDF file directly from my battery manufacturers website at http://www.upgi.com/products/product-by-category/?cat=SLA and could not find a suggested absorb voltage. Is there a safe average voltage you can suggest?

 

[jonsun]

> These controllers auto equalize on the 28th each month

Which IMO no one should allow any charger to do automatically, just disable.

For appropriate chemistries, only do manually, as per, mfg spec'd protocol.

Ideally on an adjustable mains power supply, isolated from all loads, reading volts & amps accurately at the battery.

I know...wishing i went with victron

 

[John61CT]

You can still keep tweaking the egg timer until Absorb is held long enough, watch amps with any shunt BM or ammeter, $20-30 on eBay

Using 14.4 should be fine, long as not going to Float early, endAmps could go lower than .005C