Trailer roof maintenance

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My new travel trailer has, I believe, a TPO roof, it's white and smooth.

Does this type of roof require any periodic maintenance?
 
If that’s what they call a rubber roof then yes


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Everything I find online is for cleaning EPDM rubber roofs, I haven't found anything yet for TPO roofs.


TPO – Thermal Poly Olefin – was introduced to the RV and Marine Industries in 1994. It is resistant to algae, mold, fungus, and other biological agents. The chemistry of TPO allows for no chalk residue or degradation of the membrane through its useful life. The TPO membranes are non-skid when wet and therefore are used frequently as floor covering in the pontoon boat industry as well. The chemical additives used in TPO for protection from UV light are not self-sacrificing. Instead, they operate in a regenerative fashion as they interfere with the degradation reactions that occur from UV light exposure. Some features of TPO are the advanced polymer technology, weight reduction and easy installation due to its soft and pliable nature. TPO carriers a 12 year manufacturers’ warranty.
 
Any idea what it would cost to put something like that on a cargo trailer roof? I've been wondering lately about roof wear down the road. Right now I'm thinking more about hail storm damage though and making a cover. I have tons of materials as I've saved every awning top, tent rain fly, mesh net wall, etc. since I was 17 if it was in good shape. Time to break out the sewing machine,
 
Is there a way to differentiate between TPO and EPDM?

I have a 2002 Tahoe Lite with a "rubber" roof. It has a coating that is peeling. Would it matter what is used to coat the roof or is it actually necessary to apply a coating?

I was advised by an experienced boondocker from Oregon (many RV'ers passing through lower slower Nevada are from Oregon) to use Henry 287 Solar-flex white from Home Depot to coat it. I know he is knowledgeable as he maintains his equipment. He DIY set up his boondocking trailer with higher ground clearance and added off road shocks as well.
 
TPO is thin and white on bothsides sometimes has a fiber backing that will also be white. PVC is white on both sides usually as well and is much thicker. EPDM is thicker than TPO and thinner than PVC but the dead give away is it is white on top and black on the bottom. Removing an interior vent surround usually allows you to look at the excess that has been folded over to the interior. It is possible to purchase "kits" to replace the whole roof and there are now a few places that will replace them with a life time warrenty. I have used a product similar to the Henry's with silcone on a 1991 Ajo $3,000 trailer that I just wanted to be sure wouldn't develope leaks for the couple of years we used it and had no problems. I would not do that to something I planned to keep as it would in my opinon make replacing the roof more difficult.
 
They usually have a 12 year warenty thru the manufacturer of the material. I would contact them thru the trailer manufacturer and see what they say. There are many products that can act as a sun block. One of the problems they have is they tend to shrink after time so check all openings and edges to make sure they are sealed. One day they are sealed the next they are not so look often. TPO is pretty thin so be careful washing or even walking on it. Look if even a tree limb hits it. If it is a Forest River product it most likely is PVC.
 
FYI, I talked to the dealer, they said that all you needed to do was wash the roof about every six months with RV roof cleaner.

Now I just have to find the right RV roof cleaner. Most I have looked at said they were for EPDM.
 
Simple rinsing with water and a very few drops per gallon of liquid dawn dish detergent was what I have been told. No scrubbing or harsh cleaners as it is a very thin material and easily damaged. Use a sponge mop or very very soft brush rinsed often carefully. I use 303 spray on vent, skylights,awnings,gutters and spouts.
 
The rubber fabric itself is pretty durable unless you scrape a tree limb. The thing you need to watch is for cracking at the caulked edges and transitions to the vents, front/rear caps, skylights, etc. I check every season and use Dicor (self-leveling) to reseal over any cracking.
 

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