The Russbus ;?D

[Fearnoevil]

Well so far got all the interior hardware stripped, all the seats on the right side but only 2 on the left. Yeah those damned bolts are kicking my ass, lol, although I've only put a few hours in. Some of those bolts are really stuck. They're 3/4" and I've actually snapped off two - think I pulled a shoulder muscle on the first one, so used my leg on the next which also snapped off (the bolt, not my leg ;?). I've bee using a pair of vice grips as a second hand underneath, but a couple are it pretty tight places but was able to use a box end and a clamp to hold it in place (over the years I have learned a few tricks when I needed a helper but none was available).

Unfortunately I'm finding quite a bit of rust, some of it pretty bad, down under. Damned road salt the city puts down during the winter round these parts I'm guessing. It's so bad that the cross piece that 2 of the bolts passed through actually opened a large slot/hole when I banged on it with my vice grips (trying to get rid of the scale that kept flaking off into my mouth and eyes, lol). Not sure how much of it is in this condition - does look like most of the framing is in decent condition, I've taken a ton of pics while I was crawling around down there, but it's late so I'll have to post them tomorrow.

 

[Fearnoevil]

Quick post, it's late and I'm bone tired ;?D

Rusted out hole next to the bolts I mentioned.


What the heck is this thang?


View under the RussBus

 

[SternWake]

Your differential pinion seal is leaking. YOu should check the fluid level and monitor how fast it loses fluid.


Looks like you have an oil cooler incorporated into your radiator, and it is leaking.

Unless your transmission fluid is brown instead of red/pink, as it should be.

If I had to guess what that Thang is, I say the charcoal/fuel vapor canister.

 

[Fearnoevil]

Thanks SternWake, so yeah I am NOT a mechanic so I don't know much about what is what, but I at least get the differential pinion seal, lol, thanks for the heads up, I'll have to check it for sure but I believe that's what it is. As for the line that seems to be leaking, it feels oily, but it doesn't smell like anything, (and I've checked what the trans fluid smells like and it's definitly not the same. So I know this is a dumb Q, but does the transmission fluid circulate through that radiator, or does radiator fluid flow through some kind of jacket/system inside the transmission? Yeah, haven't had too many vehicles with a transmission radiator (and none that needed work on it) so I don't have a clue how it works.

Meanwhile, the more I look the more rust I can see - lots of pitted metal down there, but then this baby's been driven over 250K miles so maybe that's to be expected. Other than those two items it doesn't look like there's any other leaks at all, the brakes look really good, looks like the starter's been replaced recently, and the only reading I get on my OBDII readout is an O2 sensor giving a lean fuel warning (forgot the code so I'll have to check the log and post it if anyone thinks that needs to be dealt with). Thanks again SternWake for your input ;?D

 

[SternWake]

If the Differential is low on gear oil, bad things will happen...... Mine is easy to check. Pull a rubber plug when parked level and the fluid should be right upto the hole. If not, add until it just barely drips out.

Most all vehicles with Automatic transmissions have a heat exchange unit within the radiator. so that the radiator helps to warm cold transmission fluid, and cool hot fluid. Some people wisely add another transmission cooler which is an external unit.

Heavy duty/oversize vehicle engines will have a Oil Cooler too. This can also be within the radiator's tanks, or it can be a separate mini radiator, like the additional transmission cooler. I know I helped someone with a Chevy motorhome when her radiator was leaking, and her replacement radiator had connections for both oil and transmission fluid cooling, as well as coolant of course. It was a very pricey radiator..

If you want to at least slow the rust significantly, get some Ospho, sold at Ace Hardware. Glove up and wipe everything with a sponge to both clean, and to saturate the rust. Going over it the second time, is kind of rewarding, seeing it clean and the rust turning black. The black spots should be painted after 24 hours or so, after any white fuzz is knocked off. A heat gun can quicken the reaction making it able to be painted faster. Or you can use some rubberized undercoating. The Ospho makes everything applied after stick better, and does not screw up existing paint.

Working upside down will suck though. Don't forget that eye protection

 

[Fearnoevil]

Thanks SternWake, I'll do that the next time I crawl under there.
Got a friend with more xp coming this weekend to take a gander and tell me what he thinks is leaking on the system. Going to have to try that Ospho - stopping the rust would give me much-needed peace of mind for the long term.
So what's your semi-pro opinion on Siki seal for caulking screw holes and other larger body piercings (Am thinking hard about building a mezzanine deck on the back half, for fun and for storage (most imortantly)? This would require welding risers attached to the outer wall support beams, piercing the outer fiberglass skin, to build the supporting framework. Mostly worried about getting it buttoned up tight after, but there are a number of ways to go and I've got to nail down the best technique affordable, so any input is appreciated greatly.
;?D

 

[Fearnoevil]

I have worked with fiberglass in the distant past - worked most of a summer "reglassing" the hull of an old 24' deep-V outboard, to this day the smell of resin brings back memories, some fond, some not (makes me itchy thinking about it, lol). The main thing that bugs me is the delaminated skin, pretty extensive (maybe 40%), and though I could live with it, I'd sure like to find a way to repair it if possible. Read somewhere that it's possible to work from the inside, drill lots of holes and pump full of resin or adhesive, then brace from the outside, sounds like a lot of work but certainly cheap. Just not sure what it will look like, but maybe I'll try it on a spot and see, nothing ventured, nothing gained I, eh :-/

As for the windows, with my planned layout ideally I could lose half the glass (due to closets, cabinets, etc) but then what to do for the outside skin? I suppose there's got to be a supplier of fiberglass RV panels that I could fit in then try to blend it in like you suggest, but I'll bet that stuff ain't cheap. Seems to be a pattern there, lol, like companies think that if you can afford an RV, you'll be able to afford the price.:dodgy:

And I have used Loctite's PL line, good stuff. But for a watertight seal, has anyone had any XP with Sikaflex? Can't remember where I read about it, but sounded good but wasn't sure if it was more of a sealant than an adhesive, or is it good for both. I am seriously considering building a deck on top which will require piercing the roof in about half a dozen spots around the outer edges, but not sure how to engineer it. I'm thinking the more flexible the sealant material the better, although if the deck is tied directly into the bus's wall beams, maybe there's not going to be much movement? Hmmm, the more I get into this, the more I realize I don't know, lol ;?D

 

[Fearnoevil]

Finally got all the seats out, except for the one up front that I want to keep where it is, if the layout works (but then may have to take it out anywho to get work done, rats ). PB Blaster over a 3-day period helped, as did the new pneumatic grinder I picked up at Menards.

But now I'm looking at the interior, and it's in such good shape, I'm having a hard time bringing myself to begin removing it. I keep telling myself I've got to to improve the insulation as well as to check for any problems/leaks, but the other part of my brain, the lazier side (or maybe it's just cautious, lol) says to just leave it the way it is, then just move somewhere where the weather isn't too extreme.

Meanwhile I'm keeping all the old seats and stuff stored in the bus because I don't have any place else to put it, but that's going to become a real pita moving it around as I work. That makes for extra work, and one thing I am is far too lazy to work under those conditions, drives me crazy if I know there's an easier way. So I'm thinking I'll build a sort of lean-to next to my shed, nothing fancy, throw some pallets down to keep stuff off the ground, then hang tarps around it to keep it dry and out of site from prying eyes, although living in a tiny town does have the advantage of very low crime, so not too worried about that.

Also, I want to add a small porch, maybe 32", with a "roof" (which would be part of the deck up above), build a railing around it and then throw in a ladder to access the deck and some flip-down steps to get in and out, kinda like the back end of an old caboose like this one...

Funny thing is, for almost as long as I can remember, I have wanted to live in a house made from a converted caboose or train car, and I don't know exactly why. I'm pretty sure the image I have came from some old movie, I think it was "Harold and Maude", lol. Just struck me as the coolest idea, and in many ways still does

 

[stude53]

Fearnoevil,

Maybe you could block out the windows you don't need by simply painting the interior window panes flat black, so the exterior window just looks like it is dark-tinted. then ignore where those windows are and insulate, panel, etc. the interior walls just as if they weren't there.

For continuity of outside appearance, I'd probably tint all the other side windows.

Lowest cost solution as well as a lot less work than trying to skin over the unwanted windows.

Just my 2 cents,
Bob

 

[SternWake]

Many years ago I worked in a boatyard, and any marine plywood which was not covered in polyester resin and fiberglass, but used screw and glue instead, we used Sikaflex as the glue, and stainless steel as the screw, as it would remain flexible and waterproof, or so the bosses claimed.

There are several different types of Sikaflex. I do not remember which type we used.

Fixing Delam is not fun. I've done it on surfboards to reattach the fiberglass to the foam underneath by cutting a slit, putting the board on the side and dribble/syringe/funnel in the resin, then put the board flat with some waxpaper over the slit, then sandbags to hold it down while the resin cures. I imagine working on a delammed vertical wall would be more difficult without a way to exert pressure on the bubble.

I think you should put off the shaded portico on caboose till you get other things sorted, mechanical things, like that leaking oil cooler.

What good is having the interior all finished and ergonomic, if the motor blows, or that Diff burns up due to lack of basic maintenance? I know building out the interior is a lot more fun than visiting mechanics or getting all greasy yourself, but think of what happens if it breaks down somewhere inconvenient and needs a lot of money to repair properly, and perhaps could have been avoided/averted by a little attention earlier.

If you've got the money now to work on the interior, instead, put some into making sure the vehicle is a mechanically sound platform and is not going to fail, perhaps catastrophically, once you add hundreds of pounds onto the chassis.

What if the dry, never lubed Tie Rod End breaks at speed, the wheel turns sideways, and you roll your RV over onto that family in the Geo Metro? As they wheel you away, will you be thinking how nice that caboose style portico was?

At the minimum, have front suspension and steering components checked for excessive wear, and that the brakes are also in good operating condition.

 

[Fearnoevil]

SternWake, yes there are several forms of Sikaflex so when the time comes I'll have to do some research to figure out which is the best one for the job. As for the delam repair, as I recall the OP said he used some plywood to press against the side and a long 2x4 to wedge it there and apply pressure. I'll probably give that or something similar a try (could park right up against this old empty concrete building I know of and use a jack, being careful not to apply too much pressure of course ;?).

I do understand your concerns about the mechanical issues and I agree completely, I don't plan on traveling anywhere (other than to the local hardware store maybe if necessary) without giving her a thorough going over, and that differential is at the top of the list. Gonna drain and flush all the fluids, hit all the lube points, clean and go over the undercarriage, then take her to a garage for an inspection and tune-up (if I can find one that can work on something this size :huh.

But what I'm working on at the moment is really mostly about exploring all the possible modifications I'd like, narrowing it down to what's practical, then figuring out what I can actually afford (yah the big limiting factor :s). Only AFTER nailing down what it is I want the finished product to look like do I intend to add a single screw to this project. I figure you've got to have a plan so that there's as few "change orders" as possible, lol, and to make sure I don't screw myself by leaving something out, or worse, removing/demolishing something I should've left in (I hate regrets, lol).

For instance if I'm going to build this upper deck I have in mind, modifying the structure and poking the necessary holes in the roof are something I'm going to need to do early on in the process. The same I think with the rack for my solar panels - I'd hate to have already furred out the walls, insulated and then paneled them only to discover that I have to tear it off to add the structural bracing I'd need for that.

So that's pretty much where I'm at right now, just demoing the interior while I figure out what the Russbus is going to become and how far in debt I'll end up when it's all done, lol.
;?D

 

[Fearnoevil]

Stude53, I agree, it's one option I'm definitely considering if the other turns out to add more cost than benefit. And while the glass certainly doesn't look bad, I'm not that crazy about the whole transit bus look and would prefer to make it look a lot more custom. But $$$ are the bottom line and I have to keep reminding myself that this is not going to be my "dream machine", more of an intermediary step if everything goes according to plan (ya, from my mouth to Gods ear, heh ;?).

Btw, you happen to own a 53 Stude? I love Studebakers!!! Always wanted either a '54 Deluxe Champion or a '62-'63 Avanti (one can dream, sigh :heart.

 

[stude53]

Yes, I own a custom/hotrod 1953 Studebaker Commander Starliner Hardtop. My Stude is two tone Corvette Artic White top/Pontiac Barrier Blue bottom, and a white Naugahyde and dark blue velour pleated interior.

My drivetrain is Chevy 350 engine/th350 transmission, and 4:11 positraction Camaro rearend.

I am also a member of the Studebaker Drivers Club since 1984.

Bob

 

[Fearnoevil]

SWEET!!! That Commander Starliner is one beautiful car Bob.
I'd love to see a pic of yours sometime, if you don't mind, I am GREEN with envy man ;?D

 

[Fearnoevil]

Finally got a drawing of my planned layout for the Russbus using a free online software demo called Floorplanner, limited but easy to use (learning Autocad is definitely on my list of things to do ;?).

 

[Fearnoevil]

Lets see if a link will make for a better image ;?D

---

Hmm, nope, linking to the Floorplanner site didn't work :huh: ah well.

There's maybe a little pie in the sky thrown in I'll admit, but I've certainly got something to shoot for, lol. Aim high I always say, then if you miss the poor bugger you hit won't know where it came from...
;?D

 

[Fearnoevil]

Okay, final version, just added a couple of windows, lol, and I think the resolution is a bit better.


So what do you think?
;?D

 

[Fearnoevil]

Some thoughts on the conversion as I get further into the plan and learn more in my research:

* This is going to cost quite a bit more than I'd planned (surprise, surprise ;?). The biggest increase is the electrical generation system - latest guesstimate is nearly $4k, or 4 times what I had planned (EEK!!).

* In light of this revelation, I realized I need to simplify everywhere else possible. So that means I'm probably going to go with Stude53's suggestion and keep the windows, wherever possible.

* Will try to fix the delamination, at least the worst of it, from the inside using the epoxy tech, low cost and simple, just a lot of work, but then I have plenty of time and less money

* I need to keep the deck idea because I've got some stuff that I HAVE to take with me, mostly tools and a few camping/sports items I want so I can enjoy my life on the road. But definitely going to have to come up with a different idea for the deck floor - I looked into a mezzanine type material and it's UNBELIEVABLE how expensive that stuff is (the kind of stuff we have at the plant is priced at over a GRAND per 30 sq ft section) and the fiberglass resin stuff aint' far behind. I really don't want to use plywood unless I have to, thought about composite deck material but it weighs a ton, so no good. Guess I'll be looking for used or scrap material or anything that can be repurposed, good thing I've got a lot of time to find a solution before it becomes a factor.

* Due to how it would limit the space, I've nixed the idea of using the wheel chair access as the main entrance. But I still want to install a passenger seat, so the only way to do that is to frame over the existing steps, build a good strong floor to mount it to, then use electric extending steps that will slide out when the doors open. Not too spendy and a good solution I believe, unless someone knows of a better/cheaper way

* Decided to seriously look at hanging extra solar panels off the passenger side of the bus. I really need more power than I can fit on the roof (partly due to the deck) plus I really like the idea that it not only provides tiltable solar panels, for much greater efficiency, but also will act as an awning, both shading the bus's southern exposure and providing me a shady place to sit (and I won't have to buy an expensive awning system, whoohooo ;?). Found some really great priced Sunmodule 275w solar panels at Altestore.com and they're really amazingly tough, check out the video if you haven't seen these before. I plan on having 4 of these paired into 2 frames (could be a bit heavy, have to check into that) and a c-channel rail running along the lower part of the bus body for them to lock down to and as a place to attach the support struts when they're deployed. Any thoughts on this idea (btw it has already been done, so not reinventing the wheel here ;?)?

Well that's it for now, can't think of anything else. Time to get out and start peeling the interior skin off. Oh yeah, still have to jettison that wheel chair lift, ugh :dodgy:
;?D

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Does the wheelchair lift still work? You can probably sell it for something on Craig's List.

Regards
John

 

[Fearnoevil]

Yes it works, although I've heard others with similar lifts having a hard time selling them (one guy had to pay someone to haul his away, lol). Suppose it's all about being in the right place at the right time, or selling anyway. I really wanted to keep it and modify it as a lift for a scooter or motorbike, but the added weight may be hard to justify (should get scooter/bike first ;?). I guess if I can't sell it, I'll hang on to it and see if the necessity arises, or in the end sell it for scrap (or donate it to someplace like Habitat for Humanity).