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MG1912

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I posted an intro thread here, and things are moving fast since I got back stateside last week.  I bought my truck yesterday -- a 2007 F350 diesel supercab long bed (GVWR 11,400 lbs., Front GAWR 6,000 lbs., Rear GAWR 7,000 lbs.).  It has 80K miles on it.  The truck already had all-terrain E-rated 10-ply tires (max load pressure 4,080/3,750 lbs. each) that were in very good shape.
 
The truck camper is a 2013 Northstar 9.5 Igloo U, a non-slideout camper that fits long bed trucks.  It is on the heavier side of what I was looking for at almost 3,000 lbs. wet, but it met all the criteria I was looking for in a camper and will be safe to carry on the above truck along with 1,000 lbs. of gear (with myself).
 
I’ll continue to post as I upgrade my rig, figure things out, and decide when I will head off.  Thanks for reading!


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MG1912 that is a sweet combination. You have one great foundation on the future. Jeff
 
very nice rig!! hope you enjoy the heck out of it.

we loved our TC...we had the Elkhorn. Your NorthStar is great! Go roam :)
 
So here is the plan/progress to date:

Today, my cousin and I took off the dashboard to install a modern Bluetooth head unit, replacing the 2007 CD/radio.  While we had the dash off, we also permanently installed a heavy duty cell phone holder.  The limiting factor is the dash itself, but we pre-drilled the holes, and the plastic is actually pretty thick in that spot.  We tested the head unit, and it runs great.  Now we have to wait for delivery of the camper to figure out what we are going to do about the Bluetooth head unit’s GPS antenna and the backup camera.  Both will probably go on the camper.  

Out with the old:
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In with the new:
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Mounting the cell phone holder with bolts, nuts, and washers:
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The final product:
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Next steps are Torklift upper StableLoads and Rancho shocks (9000’s in the rear, 7000’s up front).  The truck has a stock sway bar.  We’ll try that set up first and make changes as necessary.
 
Looks like a good strong start, "MG1912". I wish you Luck in your adventure into Modern Nomadism.
 
Many thanks for the kind comments.  Here is the plan/progress to date:

We installed the Rancho 7000 shocks in the front and 9000 adjustables in the rear.  We will install the rubber bed mat and upper StableLoads later this week (basically right before we pick up the camper).  The truck actually has a stock rear sway bar.

For the truck, we replaced the entire cooling system (new radiator, degas bottle, hoses, engine oil cooler, EGR cooler), as the cooling system is the pivotal failure point on the 6.0 (and is responsible for the EGR failures and, ultimately, head gasket issues).  The FICM was weak (reading 40 volts or lower), so that got replaced.  The injectors were in good shape, practically like new.  We replaced plastic with metal air inlet connections, the turbo got cleaned and rebuilt with a new unison ring, new glow plug harness, connectors, O-rings, any hoses that were getting soft got replaced, new batteries (the old ones were 7 years old), new fluids and filters, etc.

Besides the cooling system replacements/upgrades and FICM, the most critical work was the new O-ringed heads, ARP head studs, and the tuner.  The tuner was a “need.”  The O-ringed heads and the studs were a “want” that we decided to go ahead and do while the cab was off.  The tuner also has a very good gauge displays.  I’ve got Exhaust Gas Temperature, Transmission Fluid Temperature, Engine Oil temperature, and Engine Coolant Temperature on the screen -- all in real time -- and the tuner will alarm when those start approaching critical temps.  The brakes are in good shape, as is the suspension system.  The ball joints are good.  The tie rod on the driver’s side is a tad loose, but still good for another year or so.  We replaced the shocks, as I mentioned above.  I want to replace the spare tire with the same tire as my current Nitto Terra Grappler G2’s (which are larger than the stock 275’s), but I’m not sure if it will fit in the space allotted under the bed.

Regarding the camper, we will install an updated charge controller and a 170 watt panel (for a total of 320 watts on the roof to match with the 300 amps of batteries).  The batteries are in very good shape -- two Lifeline 150 amp 12v batteries.

We couldn’t find any high-quality jumper cables, so we made our own with 1/0 gauge pure copper wire and clamps.  I also have a 4000 amp lithium jump starter.  I will be prepared to start my 6.0 diesel if I ever run the batteries down… or to start a Mack truck.

I drove the truck from northern New England to Georgia and back, and I averaged 16.9 MPG (hand calculations).  The best segment I did was 18.3, and the worst 15.8 (I stopped to fill up and calculate MPG every 200 miles).

So lots of progress made.  I’ll post another update (hopefully with pics) once the camper is on the truck and I start living in it.

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I thought I'd write a little bit about my experience getting rid of stuff in preparation for this new life.  I have been moving every few years since I was 16, including the 10 years I spent in federal service, and I didn't accumulate much stuff.  Nevertheless, I'd estimate that I had maybe 1,000 pounds worth of stuff to my name.  When I got back from Afghanistan last month, I had what was in my suitcases, my shipment from Afghanistan (about 200 pounds), and my stuff in permanent storage with the government in Maryland, which I picked up a few weeks ago.  I had my truck and, luckily for me, all my stuff in the storage warehouse fit in my truck, but I did ask the warehouse folks to dump a few things that wouldn't fit and were of no use to me -- an old IKEA computer desk and chair that had been following me around for a decade, a small dresser that someone had left at the last home I rented, a towel rack...

When I got back to New England from the storage warehouse, I started opening the boxes and discovered that the bulk of the stuff I had been storing for so long really was junk: old receipts and paperwork from college 20 years ago, books I never intended to keep, etc.  Most of it got dumped.  It came out to 15 black garbage liners, 7 of which still have to be taken to the dump.  I did have stuff in my storage that will be useful in my new RV life -- kitchen supplies, tools, etc.

The only things that were a little difficult to decide upon were mementos and personal items.  I almost dumped a folder full of old pictures, but decided to keep it in the end.  I don't have albums and albums of photos, just that one folder.  It doesn't take up much room.  But old ticket stubs from movies I watched 20 years ago, old brochures from shows I went to... all went to the dump.  Mercifully, my lifestyle over the past 25 years has not allowed me to collect trinkets, furniture, or other large items.

The culling still isn't done.  I pick my camper up on Friday, and then I'll have to take another good, hard look at my stuff and do the final triaging:  what goes with me in the camper, what gets stored (I promised my cousin I'd only leave two large boxes in his attic), and what gets tossed.  I hope to have that done by the end of this weekend.
 
A lot of times that useless stuff that ended up in boxes in a storage unit has to do with being in a hurry to get everything packed up and moved out of where we were living. We do get tired of making 1,000 small decision about keep or toss so at the end it just gets kept.
 
Another little mod you can do for your 6.0L diesel is the "Blue Spring Mod" that replaces the weaker fuel pressure regulator spring with a stronger strength "blue" colored spring that will increase you fuel pressure to prevent premature injector fails. It sounds like you did the full bullet proofing to make your rig last a long, long time.

We did the same thing on our 2004 Excursion Limited, 6.0L diesel, and love the results...fully loaded with 6 people, and luggage, we still got 18 mpg, at 75 mph on the highway. We don't have an aftermarket tuner, but do have a 40 HP FICM tune.
 
We did the blue spring kit upgrade, too.  We pretty much "bulletproofed" the truck, although the only actual BPD part we used was their EGR cooler.

I have four custom tunes that delete the EGR and add 0, 25, 40, and 65 HP.  I am leaving it on the 0 HP tune, as I don't need the extra power.

Do you have gauges?  Those seem to be essential for the 6.0, mostly to track exhaust gas temps and the Delta between coolant and oil temps.
 
I'm working on going through Bob's blog about how to get rid of stuff. I'm in the mood to purge! I hope this lasts because it will help me get on the road sooner after I retire.
 
On Thursday, we installed the final components on the truck, and on Friday, we picked up the camper.


The upper StableLoads are now installed.  Their purpose is to engage the upper leaf spring early.  As you can see from the pic, the upper leaf spring is engaged even with no load on the bed, which made for a rough ride, but once the 3,000 lbs. camper was on the bed, the combination of the upper StableLoads and the Rancho 9000 rear shocks (set to “max” or “9”) made for a very smooth ride, and the rig ate any bumps on the road with no problem.  We set the tire air pressure to 65 PSI on the front tires and 75 PSI on the rear tires.  Once I take my fully-loaded rig to the CAT weigh station next week and have an accurate reading of my axle weights, I’ll fine-tune the tire air pressure accordingly.
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Rubber bed mat installed.  This mat provides some cushioning but mostly prevents the camper from sliding around in the bed.  Combined with the tie downs, it keeps the camper firmly attached to the bed and frame of the truck.
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Installing the frame mounts for the tie down system.  As you can see in the below pictures, the system ties the camper directly to the truck frame.
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1 ½ months after I bought my truck, the camper is finally installed on the truck.  Here you can see the Torklift "fast guns" that attach the camper to the tie down system mated to the truck frame.  The rig is 11' 6" high at the highest point (roof vent cover) and 22' 8" long from the tip of the front bumper to the tip of the camper's rear bumper.  There is much more to do, but I am finally living in my rig.  Last night, I slept in the camper for the first time.  Today, I… err... used the facilities, as it were, for the first time.  Both experiences were very comfortable, I’m happy to report.
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This is looking at the cab over sleeping compartment, standing in the main living area. The big opening directly above the bed is technically an escape hatch, but it also serves as a nice skylight. All the windows in the camper, including the escape hatch, have both an insect screen and a blackout screen.
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Here is the view looking to the rear door from the front of the camper interior. The fridge/freezer is a two-way, absorption system. One possible future upgrade is a compressor fridge, which does not depend on propane, is much more efficient with energy, and can be run off the DC battery system. Compressor fridges are, however, very expensive and need to be carefully installed with rigid insulation all around. In this pic, you can also see the furnace vents. Another possible future upgrade is a catalytic Olympian Wave heater, which Bob has talked about at length: much more efficient with propane and uses no electricity.
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More pics of the interior (pardon the mess): cab over, kitchen area, dinette area, bathroom. The camper has an A/C and microwave -- power hogs that I do not intend to use often. The bathroom is a wet bath with a shower attachment and a Thetford cassette toilet.
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Here, you can see the two solar panels (150 watt original panel and 170 watt new panel). In the below pic, you can see the new Zamp PWM charge controller, which can handle 510 watts. Picture was taken today at noon, a very sunny day. Last night, the batteries never dipped below 12.9 volts. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have two 150 amp 12v Lifeline AGM batteries, for a total of 320 watts solar and 300 amps of deep cycle batteries. The batteries should be good for a few more years.
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Here, you can see the Cirrus foam mattress and the Froli sleep system. The Froli system was designed for boats and RV’s. It adds support, like a spring system, as the blue plastic squares are springs, but it also creates a few inches of space for air circulation. I slept on it, with the Cirrus mattress on top, last night, and I found it comfortable, like a firm, quality mattress.
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Here is the plan/progress to date:

I have been living in my rig for a week now.  I am still in New England, bouncing around between relatives’ places.  I have not hooked up my camper connections to anything since I got the camper (water, electricity, etc.).  I haven’t felt the need to, as my solar system and batteries have never dipped below 12.6 volts at night, despite the entire week being mostly overcast and rainy here.  For that matter, I haven’t used a lot of electricity, either.  I mostly just occasionally use the lights and the radio.  During the day, I plug in a cigarette-lighter-type 150 watt inverter to charge my laptop, batteries, phone, etc.  There are two cigarette-lighter plugs in the camper – one in the cab over near the bed and one in the dinette area.  In fact, I do not have a generator yet, and now I’m not sure if I need to get one.  I know some full-timers do not carry a generator, at all, and I don’t plan to use the microwave or AC, at least for now.  I can get a generator anywhere, so I think I’ll skip it for the time being.

The camper has a 40-gallon fresh water tank and a 13-gallon gray water tank.  I have used about 15 gallons of fresh water and have emptied the gray water tank once by attaching a garden hose to the gray tank outlet and dumping in my aunt’s garden (with her permission, of course).  There is no smell to the gray water, as I have only taken showers and cleaned dishes with biodegradable soap.  I have not drunk the water from the fresh water tank yet, but I do plan to sterilize the tank and lines and drink from it in the future.

The Thetford cassette toilet is ingenious.  If I did a van buildout, I would probably install one.  It has its own, separate 3 gallon fresh water tank that you can fill from the outside shower head.  It flushes with a push button.  I have emptied it once, at a cousin’s house.  You can dump the cassette in a residential toilet and the toilet will flush itself.  I didn’t realize that residential toilets worked that way, but it does work!  Afterward, I rinsed the cassette out, put it back in its compartment, popped in a chemical packet, and continued on with my day.  It’s a very convenient and smart system that frees you from ever needing to visit an RV dump station.  The cassette holds 4.5 gallons and even has wheels and a retractable handle, so you can wheel it behind you into a gas station or Wal-Mart bathroom and empty it there.  It can also be emptied in pit toilets, port-a-potties, etc.  Because of the chemicals, it shouldn’t be emptied in nature, but if I am boondocking, I can dig cat-holes for serious business and water thirsty plants for less-serious business.

I used the furnace on two nights when the temps dipped down to the 40’s.  The furnace kicked on for a little while and then kicked off when the temps inside the camper rose enough.  The camper seems to hold the heat pretty well, although I’m sure the batteries and the propane would probably drain quickly if the furnace was running constantly in freezing temperatures.  As mentioned in an earlier post, I may eventually get an Olympian Wave catalytic heater.

I cooked on the stove a few times.  It works like any propane stove.  I have not tried the oven yet.

Based on the advice of the truck camper dealership, I have been taking showers by running the water heater for 15 minutes, turning it off again, and using the hot water in the 6-gallon water heater tank.  That gives me plenty of hot water for a good shower.

I went back to my cousin’s house and finished sorting out my stuff.  I threw another 3 bags of stuff away and put the rest of it into two boxes in his attic.  So that’s done.

Regarding driving, my first experience driving the truck with the camper on top was at night, from the dealership back to my cousin’s house 30 minutes away.  It was definitely a “white knuckle” experience, but not because the rig didn’t handle well – in fact, it drove smoother than it did without a load, which a lot of truck camper owners report, probably because a 1-ton truck’s suspension is designed to work and carry a load – but rather because I was nervous about the height and the top-heavy nature of a truck camper.  My rig 11’ 6” tall at the highest point on the truck camper, which is very tall if you have only ever driven sedans before.  I had done a lot of research before getting my camper, trying to follow Otto von Bismark’s excellent maxim:  “Only a fool learns from his own mistakes. The wise man learns from the mistakes of others.”  And boy are there some doozies when it comes to truck campers.  Observe these nightmare-inducing images:

This is a truck camper that rolled while taking a corner.  Of course, this truck appears to have mud tires and a lift kit, which exacerbated the top-heavy factor, but still… (image belongs to truckcamperadventure.com)
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And this is the scenario I fear the most.  Not paying attention to height restrictions and… (image belongs to truckcamperadventure.com)
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I have nightmares about absentmindedly ignoring a sign saying “no trucks or buses” and getting onto a parkway and slamming into a 10ft height limit bridge, hearing the terrifying, sickeningly-violent crunch of metal, wood, and plastic being crushed and ripped in ways they weren’t designed to do, the roof of my camper being ripped off, getting stuck in the tunnel and feeling pretty darned sorry.  It has taken me a week of driving to finally relax a little and realize that most roads are designed to carry trucks, the ones that don’t generally have signs warning off trucks, and most places do a good job of keeping trees trimmed.  I’ll have to be a lot more vigilant on national forest and BLM land.

The truck is handling well with the F350’s suspension (including the stock Ford sway bar), Rancho shocks, and the Torklift upper StableLoads.  I don’t think I need to make any other modifications.  Truck gauges show the truck is healthy while carrying the camper:  oil and cooler temperature delta is usually only a few degrees, exhaust gas temperatures staying low, transmission temperatures good, etc.  I haven’t taken my rig on a long, highway climb yet, but I suspect it will do fine.  With the gauges, I’ll know if there are problems.

I mentioned in an earlier post in this thread that I wanted to check to see if the spare tire compartment would fit the larger 295/70R18 tires my truck has.  It does not.  So I’ll be depending on good tire repair plug kits, a good air compressor, and the 275/70R18 spare tire will only be used in a true emergency to hobble myself to a repair shop.

Regarding connectivity, I’ve always lived in houses or apartments, and while traveling, I have always stayed in hotels or with friends and family, so internet access was never really a problem.  Full-timing in my camper, I’ll want more than the crappy prepaid phone plan with limited data that I’ve always had.  I shelled out for a Verizon plan for my phone for better coverage, as well as a Jetpack plan for my laptop.  We’ll see how that works out once I start traveling seriously.

I’ve got separate insurance policies for the truck and camper and two separate roadside assistance policies with my insurance company and with Good Sam.  I’m also getting an air-compressor, bottle jacks, recovery straps and chains, and come-a-longs to help myself (and others) out of jams independently.

The next step for me and my new traveling life is to get a few more things done to the camper (toilet cassette has a small leak that needs repairing, outdoor shower hose is broken, under-camper support wood needs weatherproofing, etc.).  And then, in a few weeks, I’ll start heading south to Georgia again to see my cousin.  And from there, my plan is to start heading west and begin the true adventure, and hopefully make it to the RTR come January.


The good:
The small size:  Cleaning such a small space is a breeze (a few wipes with a Clorox sheet, and the floors are “mopped”).  Additionally, parking and maneuvering are easy, as my footprint is basically the same as a pickup truck.  I have had no problem parking in normal parking spots. 
Construction quality:  Truck campers tend to be built to a high standard, relative to other RV’s, and so the quality of construction is apparent in the design and materials. 
Cassette toilet:  Definitely a winner for the reasons outlined above.
Plentiful solar/batteries/quality charger:  This applies to any rig.

The bad:
The small size:  Storage space is at a major premium, and I worry about weight limitations.  I don’t want to load my truck beyond the design specifications of axle and payload capacity, and I’m not sure exactly what I weigh right now.  I need to go back to the CAT scales next week with a full fresh-water tank and full diesel tank and see where I’m at.  Under payload capacity would be ideal.  A few hundred pounds over would be acceptable.  500 pounds or more over would be a problem, and this is very typical for truck campers.
Relative cost:  Compared to other RVs and vans, truck campers tend to cost more per square foot of living space.  Combined with a good ¾-ton or 1-ton truck, and you are looking at spending significantly more than building out an old van or getting a cheaper, used travel trailer and a smaller, less-capable tow vehicle.  You pay for the convenience and advantages of a truck camper.

The ugly:
Accessibility:  Elderly or mobility-challenged individuals probably wouldn’t want a truck camper.  The step up from the ground to the camper can be quite tall, although you can mitigate that with additional steps.  The step up from the living space to the cab over sleeping area is also very tall and would be hard to mitigate without a custom solution.  Tall people would fit inside the camper living space at the dinette level just fine and would be better-suited to the tall step-ups, but the sleeping space in the cab over would probably feel cramped for a tall person.  I am 5’ 8”, and I can sit up comfortably in the cab over.  In fact, I like hanging out there, listening to music, playing with my computer, etc.  If I straighten my back and try to reach the ceiling with my head, I can do it, but a taller person would likely not be able to sit up in any position without hitting his head and would probably only use that space for sleeping.
The height and top-heaviness:  You saw the pics above!
 
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