The 4x4 conversion to the RV that won't go away.

[steamjam1]

No they are not hubcentric. Dodge/Ford shared bolt patterns and hubcap diameters for decades in the 15" and 16" wheel sizes until 1999 or so when Ford did go hubcentric. These wheels won't fit the Dodge RV anyways because Ford also changed the bolt pattern. So as long as you get wheels from an older Ford, it'll work just fine. These are a dime-a-dozen. Dodge B-van production ended in 2003, and a wheel from that 2003 will bolt to any other B-van all the way back to 1971, (8-lug) and 1985 (5-lug) 

The Ford van 16" 8-lug wheel is 1" wider then the Dodge, and is 0ET.

The Dodge 15" 5-lug wheel is 1/2" wider then the Ford 5-lug, and is also 0ET.

The 6 wheels I have are from a 1992-ish Ford van. I went and picked the three I bought yesterday from a stack of about 100 of them, and you'll trip over a dozen of these wheels before you run into a decent condition Dodge 16" wheel. 

The Dodge/Ford dog-dish hubcaps are he same diameter as well. Right now I have dodge 10.5" dog dishes on my Ford RV because I think they make the RV look abit "cleaner" and I'll use my spare set of 11" Dodge dog dishes on the Dodge RV with the Ford wheels. It'll clean up how that RV looks.

I like wider wheels..

 

[steamjam1]

Job-1 is to get the old RV to roll in a straight line. I swapped out both the idler arms which had a bunch of play in them, greased everything else up, and checked the alignment using some string, two laser pens, and a ruler. The G/f and I went crazy ape bonkers slapping on the dura-glass to the quarters, and rockers. I still have to add a single layer of regular filler to smoothen everything out, and I'll try and blend in some similar colour out of whatever I have laying around to make the RV not look so crappy. 
[img=296x166]http://oi63.tinypic.com/vpagw4.jpg[/img]

[img=298x167]http://oi68.tinypic.com/vwy0k2.jpg[/img]
I had to unbolt the steering column at the rag joint and flip it 180 degrees to properly center the steering wheel, and adjust out some of the steering play out of the box.

So now the RV finally goes down the road in a straight line. I haven't gotten the new shocks from the post man yet, and I have yet to get the better tires.

Next up: Wiper motor replacement, shocks/tires, and paint.

And here is Zia looking at me funny:

[img=167x298]http://oi65.tinypic.com/eki4nk.jpg[/img]

 

[highdesertranger]

what a cute pup. highdesertranger

 

[ArtW]

well I begin to understand why folks that didn't know from auto repair would be afraid of that RV, a lot of folks don't know how much you can get done cheap in a driveway with some basic tools
Zia is cute

 

[GotSmart]

well I begin to understand why folks that didn't know from auto repair would be afraid of that RV, a lot of folks don't know how much you can get done cheap in a driveway with some basic tools
Zia is cute

A $20 part can cost $200 to instal.  Those old Dodgrs are much easier o work on than many things, which is why I asked about buying it.  

I am glad he kept it.     I cant work as fast any more.  

 

[steamjam1]

A $20 part can cost $200 to instal.  Those old Dodgrs are much easier o work on than many things, which is why I asked about buying it.  

I am glad he kept it.     I cant work as fast any more.  

Yeah there isn't much to these older Dodge vans, especially if you own a 70's one-ton because not only do they lack complicated electronics, but smog equipment as well. (In those states where emission testing is required, like Ca.) Its just engine, carburetor, and transmission. Parts are very cheap, and you can repair/replace 80% of the van using only a basic set of hand tools.

 

[GotSmart]

My 91 has the 1969 318, with the TBI upgrade.  Kind of a Frankenmonster.  It runs well, but all the lights have always been on.  

I know that I can never get enough out of it to keep another van running.  It has almost everything new in the running gear and front end.  

I would be a fool to sell this.  I just wish I could get better mileage around town.

 

[ArtW]

I had a 77 1/2 ton conversion, but used it to make up for lack of funds in a transaction. Man I miss that thing

 

[steamjam1]

I crawled under the Dodge RV once again and I took preliminary measurements. Because its a '78, doing a 4x4 conversion is going to be a slight challenge. Had it been just a year newer, it would be much easier. 1978 was a strange year for Dodge. Chrysler was in the middle of a sorely needed update to B-vans and D/W pick ups. I like to call 1978 the "Missing-link" year for these vans. The main body, and mechanics are all carry overs from 1977. But the side cargo doors were moved back, and the beltline was lowered for larger windows on all cargo doors. The doors do interchange tho. You can bolt on 1990 van doors to your 1976. The front sheet metal were carry-overs from '77, but has the '79-93 dash along with its dash harness.

The most important thing for the 4x4 conversion is the frame horn. They are carry overs from '77 and are different then '79 and up in that its a "split" frame where the frame horns on both sides "split" into two arms that hold the front bumper directly to the frame. Starting in '79 the frame was not split and Dodge started using bumper brackets. The steering box is common to all B-vans from '71-'93, but uses a different pitman arm. In order for a 4x4 conversion to work, I am going to have to box in that split with 3/16 plate and weld in a new radiator support rail.

I want this RV to be set up abit differently then my Van Charger. It's got a dana-44 that uses coil springs, radius arms and a goofy twin panhard rod system that severely limits articulation, and was a complete pain in my *ss to align up. I want this RV to be a bit more flexy for when I'm out in the sticks, and easier to set up so I am going with a more traditional leaf spring set up. I will be using a common, easy to find 8-lug Chevy Dana 44, and retaining the RV's original Dana 60 rear. The Van Charger uses a 727 transmission and a married NP205. Its a great set up BUT it uses an unobtanium adapter that I really don't want to try and custom make, so for the RV I will be installing a short shaft 727 and a divorced Ford NP205. The 727 short shaft can commonly be found under class-C dodge RV's and I got mine the other day for $100 in working order. I'm still going to replace the friction plates and bands anyways since it's out and easy to do. The divorced Ford NP205 is not as common or as cheap as its married cousin, and were used widely in the '70s under Ford trucks. I have a spare married Ford 205 I bought two years ago for $100. My divorced unit cost me $500. Anyways, this set up will be nearly bomb proof.

The only thing I am really going to have to modify extensively is the Chevy axle. Its differential (pumpkin) is on the wrong side. I am going to have to cut it up and convert it to driver side drop, which is critical to Dodge/Chevy 4x4 conversions. I could just go and buy a Ford axle thats already driver side drop, but the 8 lug varieties go for $1000, when a Chevy 8 lug goes for $200-300. I'd rather spend the $300, and a day cutting/welding rather then forking out a grand only to have to cut/turn the knuckles and do a SUA conversion anyways.

For the steering system I am going to copy the Van Charger's steering, which uses the stock steering box, stock 1989 pitman arm and a high steer kit on the passenger side knuckle.

So at this point, I have the transmission, the transfercase and I am looking for a front axle. So far I'm into it $600 to go 4x4.

Next up: Welder and tools.... (fun stuff)

 

[Txjaybird]

The Ford van 16" 8-lug wheel is 1" wider then the Dodge, and is 0ET.

The Dodge 15" 5-lug wheel is 1/2" wider then the Ford 5-lug, and is also 0ET.

What does the  OET  :-/  mean re: wheels?

Please and Thank You        Texas Jbird

 

[Lafnbug]

ET, or "Einpresstiefe", a German term which translates to 'insertion depth' in English, is the offset of the rim in relation to the hub mounting surface. In his case, it means the wheel is centered over the hub or axle, with no positive or negative offset. Remember the old 'deep dish' mags? They had a large negative offset, or ET.

 

[TMG51]

I crawled under the Dodge RV once again and I took preliminary measurements. Because its a '78, doing a 4x4 conversion is going to be a slight challenge. Had it been just a year newer, it would be much easier. 1978 was a strange year for Dodge. Chrysler was in the middle of a sorely needed update to B-vans and D/W pick ups. I like to call 1978 the "Missing-link" year for these vans. The main body, and mechanics are all carry overs from 1977. But the side cargo doors were moved back, and the beltline was lowered for larger windows on all cargo doors. The doors do interchange tho. You can bolt on 1990 van doors to your 1976. The front sheet metal were carry-overs from '77, but has the '79-93 dash along with its dash harness.

The most important thing for the 4x4 conversion is the frame horn. They are carry overs from '77 and are different then '79 and up in that its a "split" frame where the frame horns on both sides "split" into two arms that hold the front bumper directly to the frame. Starting in '79 the frame was not split and Dodge started using bumper brackets. The steering box is common to all B-vans from '71-'93, but uses a different pitman arm. In order for a 4x4 conversion to work, I am going to have to box in that split with 3/16 plate and weld in a new radiator support rail.

I want this RV to be set up abit differently then my Van Charger. It's got a dana-44 that uses coil springs, radius arms and a goofy twin panhard rod system that severely limits articulation, and was a complete pain in my *ss to align up. I want this RV to be a bit more flexy for when I'm out in the sticks, and easier to set up so I am going with a more traditional leaf spring set up. I will be using a common, easy to find 8-lug Chevy Dana 44, and retaining the RV's original Dana 60 rear. The Van Charger uses a 727 transmission and a married NP205. Its a great set up BUT it uses an unobtanium adapter that I really don't want to try and custom make, so for the RV I will be installing a short shaft 727 and a divorced Ford NP205. The 727 short shaft can commonly be found under class-C dodge RV's and I got mine the other day for $100 in working order. I'm still going to replace the friction plates and bands anyways since it's out and easy to do. The divorced Ford NP205 is not as common or as cheap as its married cousin, and were used widely in the '70s under Ford trucks. I have a spare married Ford 205 I bought two years ago for $100. My divorced unit cost me $500. Anyways, this set up will be nearly bomb proof.

The only thing I am really going to have to modify extensively is the Chevy axle. Its differential (pumpkin) is on the wrong side. I am going to have to cut it up and convert it to driver side drop, which is critical to Dodge/Chevy 4x4 conversions. I could just go and buy a Ford axle thats already driver side drop, but the 8 lug varieties go for $1000, when a Chevy 8 lug goes for $200-300. I'd rather spend the $300, and a day cutting/welding rather then forking out a grand only to have to cut/turn the knuckles and do a SUA conversion anyways.

For the steering system I am going to copy the Van Charger's steering, which uses the stock steering box, stock 1989 pitman arm and a high steer kit on the passenger side knuckle.

So at this point, I have the transmission, the transfercase and I am looking for a front axle. So far I'm into it $600 to go 4x4.

Next up: Welder and tools.... (fun stuff)

In this thread: highdesertranger has a stroke.

I like your approach to this stuff, keep it coming, include pictures where possible, thanks.

 

[steamjam1]

What does the  OET  :-/  mean re: wheels?

Please and Thank You        Texas Jbird

ET refers to a wheel's offset from center. (random pic I found on the net)
[img=673x503]http://cocomponents.com/dealer/wp-c...-Wheel-Offset-Explaination-1024x768.jpg[/img]

 

[steamjam1]

I gotta get the old Dodge RV out of the 'rents driveway. I quit trying to do things right and started hacking it together as fast as I can. I installed the new shocks, and got the rest of the driver rocker welded in and filled.

Before:
[img=301x169]http://oi64.tinypic.com/dqmctx.jpg[/img]

After:
[img=301x169]http://oi67.tinypic.com/2zibgq8.jpg[/img]

[img=302x202]http://oi65.tinypic.com/ma9uf7.jpg[/img]

[img=300x218]http://oi64.tinypic.com/2luv11s.jpg[/img]

I didn't even bother sanding down the bondo. I just covered it in red oxide primer and called it good. I even thought about throwing some clear coat over it and make an effort to blend it in, but couldn't really be bothered.

All this van has to do is make a one way 180 mile trip to the ranch where I spend 1/2 of my time now. This is the ugliest RV ever..

 

[TMG51]

One time, I bondo'd a friend's car in her backyard by firelight while drinking Bacardi. It turned out only slightly worse than that.

 

[highdesertranger]

the trick with bondo is you need to work it before it gets hard. if you wait until it hardens you better get the grinder out. work it while it's still soft, then it's easy. highdesertranger

 

[steamjam1]

the trick with bondo is you need to work it before it gets hard.  if you wait until it hardens you better get the grinder out.  work it while it's still soft,   then it's easy.  highdesertranger

Yeah. Normally I would cheese grate it while somewhat soft then hit it with the DA to smoothen. This time I just didn't care. I plopped it on and away I went. I'm just happy I managed to weld the patch panels on straight. Cause you know... A botched filler job is alot easier to correct then a misaligned patch panel....

 

[steamjam1]

So it begins tomorrow. I have to drive over to the 'rents, switch RV's tell them I'll be back in a few days to pick up Big-Blue, and off I go. To be honest I'm not 100% sure I want to even bother with this Dodge. It looks like the biggest pile of poo, which I know I only have myself to blame because I didn't care enough to do the filler work right, or even paint it. To me, the Dodge looks like a giant, flying turd.

Oh well. I gotta drive it 180 miles tomorrow. I know it'll make it. The engine and driveline are in generally good condition. All the gauges on the dash work, all the lights work, and I know Ill get atleast 13mpg. I'll prolly get pulled over like 200 times because the RV looks so sh*tty, but its all legal now. I won't get a ticket or anything.

I still have to pack tho. I won't have Big-Blue, and where I will be doesn't have either water, power, phone, internet, cell signal, or sewage. I am bringing my generator, 6 gallons of water, stoves, camping gear, and my welder. Zia is coming with me so add even more gear for her. The RV doesn't have any appliances, or even a floor beyond the chassis metal floor. I'll be up there three, or four days a week for the summer, fall, and into the winter, so Flying Turd will be used as my home base while I'm up there. I'll be adding appliances and making a bed for myself and Zia as the weeks wear on. Meanwhile I'll finish gathering up the rest of the 4x4 conversion parts and get ready for that. Living in the Dodge RV while I do the conversion is going to be challenging for sure.

 

[steamjam1]

Since this thing sux so bad... I just got this crazy idea to paint it 1996 VW Harlequin.

 

[Txjaybird]

Since this thing sux so bad... I just got this crazy idea to paint it 1996 VW Harlequin.

WHAT??  WHAT??            TJB