T1N High Top question

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awpz0r

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Hello all, still a newbie here.

I currently drive a prius and found Bob through youtube. I have become obsessed with this. At first I wanted to have my prius setup for a temporary type camper/emergency situation (loss of home). I have since decided that once I save up enough money I will go full van mode in the future. 

Like many people, money is an issue. I have done a lot of homework and I think I am mostly interested in the T1N Sprinter. It seems to have the combination of price and fuel economy I am looking for. My problem is that I am 6'2, and from what I understand the interior height of the high tops are slightly less than that. Adding in the need for insulation... I was hoping I could get some input from people who live in a van full time without the ability to stand up fully. I would also be interested to hear of any options to be able to get a slightly taller custom high top of some sort (If this is an option it would open up the amount of vans I can look at since I could buy a non high top version as well if I am getting a taller one installed)

Thank you for your input!
 
I think it's ok to have to duck a little in my medium roof Ford Transit, but I'm only 6 feet tall. The high roof version is too tall in my opinion. Driving around the city there are many places where I can fit that a high roof wouldn't

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That is actually I really good point. I haven't considered height restrictions that much... I am not even sure what/where/when height is restricted. Is there a certain height cutoff I should be looking looking for?
 
My Roadtrek is almost 9 1/2 feet tall. I am in the Houston, TX area and travel North and West. I have not run into height restrictions but I don't go through a drive through window or a parking garage either. I think the East may have some low bridges.
 
I am west coast. Those were the only 2 things I was thinking I would need to avoid. Frankly anything that makes it difficult for me to purchase fast food is a positive in my book lol. Parking structures hmmm. I don't think being unable to fit in parking structures would make me want a shorter vehicle. Are there any other height restrictions I should be concerned with?
 
Those are the only ones I can come up with for now. The only other thing is if you're boondocking in the forest is a low hanging branch but you could run into one your Prius wouldn't fit under too.

Others may have run into another situation that I can't come up with at the moment. You really do need to know the height of your vehicle. I just thought of the oil change places but most have a 10 foot door.
 
old bridges, gas stations, garages, mechanics shops, power lines, there are all kinds of height restrictions. the N. K street bridge in Needles CA gets a tall vehicle about once a month. it's easy to mess up going south on AZ 95 if you miss a turn it takes you right into it. posted height is 8ft 4inches. ouch. highdesertranger
 
Starting to reconsider the T1N. One perk of the larger vans I liked was the swivel seat, I feel like it really adds appeal to a van, having 2 built in comfy chairs. Anyone know if there is a swivel option available in the smaller vans such as the nv200, transit connect, or promaster city? I've done some looking and the only thing I found was a company in the UK that makes a swivel plate for the uk version of the nv200, they don't ship to the US and modifications have to be done to them even for the uk nv200s beause they are originally meant for VW.
 
At 6'2" you would not be able to stand fully in an floor/ceiling insulated T1N; only if it was stripped bare.
It would be annoying close -- maybe an inch too short.

If you won't be changing your own oil don't get a T1N (I'm assuming this means you won't be doing repairs yourself). You will get reamed every step of the way if you are not a diy'er. In that case it is better to concede to the extra upfront cost of a newer van that does not require a specialist mechanic.
 
You might want to include in your search, the Nissan NV 2500 high roof. Interior cargo height is 76.9 inches. I dont know if that is measured to the roof bows (ribs) or to the sheet metal. 

Used NV2500's are out there. You can get them with a V6 or V8, and they can tow a decent sized trailer if the need arises.
 
What tx2sturgis  said, I saw a video where a 6'4 guy was able to stand straight up in that type of van. I can't post links yet as I haven't posted enough yet but it's on the Enigmatic Nomadic channel titled "Lee's Incredible Van Build. *FULL TOUR*". 
 
So weird I just recently came across that video the other day. I had originally put the nv out of my mind because the mpg is fairly poor. His build is pretty much the greatest I have ever seen. I might be being a bit too strict with my criteria. I think if I discovered a van that seemed very reliable and not too difficult to fix, I should give up my hopes of higher mpgs. This is going to have to be a long term plan for me, as financial issues are a problem as they can be for many of us. It's really nice hearing everyone opinions and experiences, I really appreciate it, thank you.

If I go the route of a smaller rig that I cannot stand up in... part of me is considering a minivan, specifically the Chrysler Pacifica hybrid in a few years once there are some used ones available. When you don't plug in the battery for extra charge, it still gets over 30mpg, seems pretty great for a van. Also I came across some info that said the hybrid system is similar to what toyota uses. This is a big deal for me as it could provide the opportunity to use the cars AC regularly as you can do with a prius. That might make not being able to stand up tolerable. Its too bad I can't rent out various camper vans and try them lol.

Another option I was thinking about was one of those right hand drive mitsubishi delica imports. Those are so freaking cool, and you get 4x4.. just cant go much higher than 60 mph. This is my favorite choice so far, but I probably won't go that route as repairs and maintenance would probably inconvenient.

Thanks again everyone.
 
Vehicle height and weight costs money in gas mileage penalty, no getting around that.

But lets say you drove 10,000 miles a year with this van.

Lets say the average gasoline price where you plan to drive is $2.83, which is the average US gas price as I type this. 

Suppose van A, (a minivan) and using gasoline, gets 20 mpg. Your approximate fuel bill will be $1415 a year. 

Van B (a full size van) gets 15 mpg, with a fuel bill of $1886 per year. $471 more. But maybe your comfort or ability to carry more supplies offsets the difference.

Suppose you spend a lot more to buy an equivalent diesel powered van, Van C,  that's 'supposed' to get 25mpg.

Diesel generally costs more, lets say $3.23 per gallon. Your cost to drive this one would be $1292, saving $594 a year compared to Van B. Barely worth the extra expense of the diesel engine...unless you plan to keep the van for more than 5 years at 10,000 miles per year. But you also have to figure in higher maintenance and repair costs.

If you only drive 5000 miles a year, then the differences will be about half the above figures. 

Only you know how this will affect you..in my case, a few hundred dollars a year is trivial compared to my comfort and the room I want, plus trailer towing capability.
 
My medium roof Transit with the 3.7 V6 is used as my work vehicle as well as traveling/camping. It is currently showing 18.1 average mpg on the dash in town driving, but how you drive makes a big difference. I live in Phoenix, AZ which is mostly flat and I drive 55 in the right lane even though everyone else is going about 70. My mileage was not as good when I was driving more aggressively. I have been practicing discipline in order to see how high I can get that number on the dash to go. Higher roof, speed and weight will all burn gas.

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Allan Greenblazer said:
My medium roof Transit with the 3.7 V6 is used as my work vehicle as well as traveling/camping. It is currently showing 18.1 average mpg on the dash in town driving, but how you drive makes a big difference.


If you reset that dash mpg display while driving in town I am betting you will see that the numbers will be much lower. 

Ford, and most others, have a skewed algorithm for calculating mpg. 

Basically, it ignores the fuel you use when accelerating. Or it averages the mpg (which might include highway driving) since last reset. 

An OBDII scanner can calculate the fuel used much more precisely...and the mpg numbers will usually be much lower.
 
I actually did the reset. I drive a lot. 33k this year. I know the actual number is lower, my point was that how you drive makes a big difference.

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Agreed.

I have a friend driving a heavily loaded high roof Transit and he gets around 10 mpg....on the highway. But he drives at about the speed limit I think. In some places out west here, the speed limit is 75 or 80.

Yeah that right pedal under the dash has a direct relationship to fuel used.
 
I never trust the built in mpg systems. I just fill up to max, set the trip to zero, and then when I refill I divide the distance traveled by the gallons purchased. super easy.
 
awpz0r said:
I never trust the built in mpg systems. I just fill up to max, set the trip to zero, and then when I refill I divide the distance traveled by the gallons purchased. super easy.
Using your formula I am getting 18.69 MPG. I was aware that the dash gauge was not precise, but I am pleasantly surprised to find that the actual MPG is better than the number on the dash. Thanks to the comments here I checked and was rewarded with good news.

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