Switching gears on a 1986 Ford F700

[Dred]

Hello everyone,<br><br>I have just bought a 1986 Ford F700 370 4V Gas with a 4 speed manual transmission. The issue I am having is, there is a switch on the shifter that you pull up or push down. I am told it is a high/low or multipurpose switch. I am not quite sure how to use it. Do you go 1,2,3,4 then to neutral and pop up the knob and back to first? would that make it with the knob up 5,6,7,8? <br><br>If anyone can help with this it would be a great help.<br><br>Thanks,<br>Dred.<br><br>

 

[Seraphim]

Try this explanation

Click Here

 

[Guest]

The last f700 I worked on had a split&nbsp; rear axle that acts as a high/low range.&nbsp; It had a knob on the side of the shift lever. The rear axle had an electric motor and shift yoke mechanism mounted on the side of the housing. You may find better results when you search<br><br>http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&amp;th=698366<br><br><br><br>

 

[Guest]

Also look at the sun visor . The instruction decal may still be there&nbsp; <br><br>

 

[Dred]

lol there are no sun visors anymore. <br>

 

[karl]

I'm sure the manual explains it better, but here's an idea of the operation<br><br>Loaded, I usually run up through the gears in low range(button down) then let off the throttle as you lift the button, and a second or two later hit the throttle and you will either feel acceleration with a drop in the engine rpm or hear grinding- meaning you were too quick with the throttle....it takes a bit of practice to time it right. Splitting down is a bit more intimidating the first times- hit the button down and mash the throttle to bring the engine rpms up to the increased speed of the rear gears, then let off to use the engine as a brake if you are slowing down, or keep your foot in it if pulling.<br>Take it out on flat ground to learn- preferably out of traffic since you may miss a few shifts until you get the feel. Eventually you will get the feel of when to split gears with your rig and different loads.<br><br>

 

[Guest]

<div class="definitionHeader"> Look for the electric motor gadget on your rear axle to know for sure what you are dealing with. Many medium duty trucks used that type of axle. If yours has it and you spot another truck like it maybe they will let you take a pic of the visor or operators manual.<br><br>http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXDR-0134.pdf&nbsp;&nbsp; (could be similar to this)<br><br><br>Axle, 2-speed </div> <ul><li> Type of rear drive axle offering two reduction ratios and a control mechanism for selecting either ratio at the driver’s discretion</li><li>“Lo” axle range (the higher numerical ratio) provides maximum pulling power</li><li>“Hi” range (the lower numerical ratio) provides maximum road speed</li><li> 2-speed rear axle permits split-shifting in the lower transmission gears to obtain evenly spaced gear steps that optimize available engine power</li><li> 2-speed axle can be used in Lo range for crisp performance at slower speeds or in Hi range for maximum economy on the highway</li></ul>

 

[Dred]

Thanks for responding Karl.<br><br>Im still a little lost. I am use to a car manual trans. So I go thru all the gears in low (1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th). And while in fourth I let off the gas and pull the knob up?<br><br>

 

[Les H]

I drove many types of trucks over the years, from dump trucks to tankers to whatever. Try to think of it as an overdrive on an automatic. My automatic in my 1 ton bus is a 4 SP auto ( 1,2,3 gears and "D"). When heavily loaded, or when towing, I take it out of (over)Drive and put it in 3. This holds my time between shifts and the engine revs higher, producing less speed, but more power.( around 8-9 mpg) Under normal, everyday driving with just me and some supplies in it, I leave it in (over)Drive for better fuel economy, less power and more speed, though I rarely run it over 62-65 mph, and get about 13 mpg.
Your truck is the same idea, only done manually ( with the button) by you instead of by a computer controling the transmission. Those 700's were pretty tough. With that split rear end, I could leave the gravel yard with 7 ton of gravel in the dumptruck pulling a 24' dual axle 'beavertail trailer with a full sized ford backhoe on it. For your purposes , I would leave it in high range most of the time, unless you are pulling long, steep grades in the rocky mtns or appalachins, or you run it fully ( over)loaded most of the time.

 

[Dred]

That does help some Les. Thanks.<br><br>High would be with the knob in the "UP" position right?<br><br>And just going first, second, third, and fourth I only get to about 35MPH and the RPMs are kicking about 2800 at that point and I just dont know where to go from fourth gear. <br><br>This truck can really hull 7tons? I have only loaded it with about 2 1/2 tons so far. The dump bed is pretty rusty, but im going to try to grind out the bad and weld in patches. The frame on it is very clean. Still has the factory under coating on it. <br><br>

 

[karl]

Les is right- think of high(UP) as an OD, one that you can use in any gear....until you get the feel of the truck-1,2,3,4 using the clutch, then let off the gas as you lift the knob, pause..., get back on the gas....congrats- you are in high range(OD).<br>You may be able to drive around in high range most of the time, but it is better to know how to use the Hi/Lo before you need it (or a new clutch) IMHO<br>There will be times when you will want to "split " other gears to keep your peak power rpm.....get used to going from low to high and back first.<br>Practice, practice.....and some more. it will become easy after a bit.<br>If you can find someone who drives professionally it might be worth a 12 pack of their favorite refreshment to have them give a 15 minute driving lesson.....<br><br><br>

 

[Dred]

Lol. Ok cool thanks that helped a lot.<br><br>I will mess with it tomorrow if it dont snow again.<br><br>

 

[akrvbob]

Wow, it's amazing we have so many knowledgeable and helpful people on the forum. Well done to you all!!&nbsp;<img src="https://vanlivingforum.com/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" align="absmiddle" border="0"> Dred, I'm curious on your plans for the truck, are you going to build a "cabin" on it and live in it, or use it commercially? Bob<br>

 

[Dred]

No I am a general contractor. Got the truck to help defer the cost of dumping construction debris. <br><br>I have to say that this is a new experience for me.&nbsp; I have a lot of plans for this truck. It is just a starter truck but has already grown on me. I plan on doing a little fiberglass work to the nose this summer and repainting it will all of our advertisement. So I will prob be here with a lot of questions soon enough lol.<br><br>

 

[Les H]

That does help some Les.This truck can really hull 7tons? I have only loaded it with about 2 1/2 tons so far. The dump bed is pretty rusty, but im going to try to grind out the bad and weld in patches. The frame on it is very clean. Still has the factory under coating on it.

My 91 f450 dump was rated at 14,500 lb Gvw, and weighed a touch over 9000 empty, giving it a 5,500 (2 3/4 ton) legal payload. This was with a straight 2 SP with no hi/lo range or split rear, and 7.3 non turbo diesel. If you are going to run around fully loaded, PLEASE get comfortable with the brakes, steering, tranny and handling of truck beforehand. Also, keep up with any DOT inspections faithfully. This 'ain no lowdown honda you plan on tooling around in, it will react WAY different in stopping, emergency manuevering, etc. I like the suggestion of a driving lesson, but please wait untill it is over for any liquid refreshment. Hav fun and enjoy it. I'd love to get my hands on a 50's or 60's 2 or 2 1/2 ton truck to restore and turn into a house truck. Saw a 32 ford 1 1/2 ton completely restored
with a Toyota Dolphin motorhome body on it and man, that sucker was SWEET!
And I am a licensed insured general contractor too. I bought my dumptruck for exactly the same reason. Hand unlading 3-4 ton of demolition debris just plain sucks.
les

 

[Dred]

Yeah I just paid 2800.00 dollars to get the brakes done. It need 2 hydro boosters, one rear cylinder that only came with the backing plate and shoes, the main valve body next to the master cylinder, and some hoses. I have noticed that you do need some distance on these trucks to come to a safe stop. The driving of it is no issue as far as being a large truck. I have driven much bigger before but were all automatic and had air brakes.<br><br>It was funny because I didnt remember how to work the dump. I was about to take apart the whole PTO. But found the other lever and felt real stupid lol.<br><br>But yeah I like the older Fords too. Im&nbsp; more of a car and light duty truck buff. The Medium duty trucks are fun so far. And a lot easier to work on.<br><br>