Sub Floor Attachment?

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SunDance57

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Jun 12, 2017
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Location
Humboldt, CA
Hi All,

Noob here. I am installing 0.5 in CDX in 2006 Ford E 150. Watched Bobs video of it and followed it. My question; how do you attach the sub floor to the van? That was not in the video. I tried spray adhesive from another video, did not seem to work very well. Funny aside here, the 3 M adhesive Bob and others recommended is banned in CA but all the killer bud you want is perfectly fine. Lol. Funny priorities here. Let's not get started on that.   :cool:

Anyway, should I just screw it in with self tapping screws? From the top OK? Do I need to even attach it? I am going to put linoleum on it. It is raining like heck here in Humboldt and the sub floor swelled at bit (1/8in). It still fits, but tight.

Thanks!

Michael
 
it really depends on how well it 'fits' I guess but be very careful when screwing anything to the floor to be sure you dont hit wires or hoses and such underneath. it can be tricky sometimes. you could use spots of liquid nails every foot or so, not too much that it might be impossible to remove the floor if ever needed (that stuff is remarkably strong) just clean the metal with alcohol wipes or something where you put it first.
 
Just a thought, look into SikaFlex 252 and scuff metal with sand paper using their primer before applying - water resistant and very strong when cured. It will bond well and is somewhat flexible when cured so it compensates for some expansion. You might be able to get it at Home Depot or Amazon.
 
You didn't say whether it is a window van or cargo van.  If it's a van that has had seats in it you could use some of the threaded holes the seats were bolted to the floor with.
 
I've lost track of the number of vans I've laid floor in since 1975 and I have NEVER screwed or glued the plywood to the metal floor.. I repeat NEVER.

If you do the layout well and cut it to fit tightly, there is absolutely  no need to glue it down or worse yet to put screw holes through the metal floor. Even using sealant, eventually water is going to come up around those screw holes and cause your choice of rust or wood rot (or both).

Figure out where your furniture components are going to go, do a layout so that the seams of the wood are going to be underneath cabinetry, make a template for cutting in around the ribs/wheelwells etc at the outside edge and go from there.

After this vans' floor was laid I  had one pesky corner than didn't want to lay flat and of course it was the corner right beside the side door. I thought I was going to have to squeeze some adhesive in there and weigh it down with concrete blocks until it set up. Within a couple of days the plywood had relaxed and flattened itself right out. It's still just fine!

Now, if you're never going to put any permanent cabinetry in there, then there might be a reason for bothering to glue the wood down...maybe!

Any holes or rusted areas in the floor need to be dealt with before you lay wood in there btw.
 
Oh, yes. I didn't think about that. The edges of my floor are held down by my walls.
 
If you are not going to put walls up, some L brackets from the floor to the ribs would be a good idea and no drilling through the floor or messy glue.
 
I used the cargo tie down points with longer bolts. Also walls and furniture tied into walls and the floor keep everything in place
 
Every screwhole is a future rust hole.

I'd definitely try and just let it be a floating floor. Maybe seal seams so flooring doesn't take as much abuse from subfloor movement.
 
Anything not fastened is a hazard in a crash. I used construction adhesive, very permanent. I glued two 1x2 strips length wise on the metal floor. Then a few well located screws to be redundant. Foam board insulation between the strips and sides. Plywood screwed to the strips. I don't like CDX as it has too many voids. Any wood used on the floor, should be painted on the under side.
 
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