Spray Foam Insulation

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cdiggy

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These kits that they sell now. Two part closed cell polyurethane foam. I have seen YouTube vids of these being applied and I'm wondering if anybody has used these products and how did you like it. :)
 
I hear they come loose and squeak when you're driving. If they did that with the wind rocking the rig, I'd have to, well you know...
 
Scott_1776 said:
I hear they come loose and squeak when you're driving. If they did that with the wind rocking the rig, I'd have to, well you know...
That is the new stuff? I know the old stuff did that.


This new stuff has similar r value of polyiso board
 
I've used the commercial grade stuff -

http://www.grainger.com/product/HAN...m/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/2TE60_AS01?$smthumb$

Depending how much surface area you wanna cover /and how thick -- either a few cans of "Great Stuff" -- or this --

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Touch-n-...Component-Spray-Foam-Kit-4006002506/204352574

For the school bus project I wanna do --- once everything is done before I close the walls --- I'll call in one of those company's that do the smaller buildings --

When I worked for a car stealership -- they had a 2 - 20' X 30' - "Mann Steel Buildings" put up -- I ran all the plumbing / wiring / heat and got everything ready for them --- in one day they sprayed about 3" X 3000 sq. ft. -- the next day they came back and knocked it flush with the up-rights --- done. The next day I sprayed the whole interior with a clear sealant --
 
Good god grainger is expensive. I was hoping to keep it at a buck a board foot. Any higher and I am using 4x8 sheets and great stuff. And tape. I have head stories of foam shrinking and losing adhesion to whatever it was sprayed on so I am trying to be cautious. But not overly cautious. :)
 
cdiggy said:
Good god grainger is expensive. I was hoping to keep it at a buck a board foot. Any higher and I am using 4x8 sheets and great stuff. And tape. I have head stories of foam shrinking and losing adhesion to whatever it was sprayed on so I am trying to be cautious. But not overly cautious. :)

Back during my corvette hot rod days --- a few guys sprayed foam into the rear fender cavities - for a little sound deadening --- no squeaking - but when / if they had to get in there later - it was a pain to chip - claw it out --- till someone suggested to stick a lawn and leaf bag in there ---- then spray the foam into it - to make it easier to remove later ---- guess what ---- oodles of squeaking --

A slang expression - if to much foam was sprayed in the fenders - they tended to -- "Ball-Park-Franking" --
 
My step van body is almost all aluminum so I don't worry too much about rust (at least when it comes to the body). It did run Pacific Avenue in Atlantic City for 19 years as a bus so the undercarriage I do monitor frequently. I just don't want to spend the $600 on the kit if it is not going to work well. Spraying underneath the floor has a distinct advantage because of the low ceiling I have. If I have to insulate from the inside my ceiling height will be that much lower (which is ok for me because i am vertically challenged but anybody else might have a crook in their neck)
 
the right stuff foam in a can, is open cell foam. it will absorb water like a sponge and hold it. it will rot sheet metal, I have seen it many times. however I am interested in the spray on closed cell let us know if you use it and how it works. highdesertranger
 
Cost has been the deterrent for me using the(closed cell) kits, especially in step vans which are flat and easy to use sheet stock for.
Had seriously considered spending the $600. to do a Sprinter recently (they are a nightmare of pressed steel nooks and crannies) until I read how many issues they(Sprinters) had with rippling the sides from expansion, and altitude change.

Having used foam extensively in residential and commercial building, I like the idea....just haven't committed to a van...yet.

I agree with those that discourage the use of Great Stuff.
 
karl said:
Had seriously considered spending the $600. to do a Sprinter recently (they are a nightmare of pressed steel nooks and crannies) until I read how many issues they(Sprinters) had with rippling the sides from expansion, and altitude change.

Having used foam extensively in residential and commercial building, I like the idea....just haven't committed to a van...yet.
Do you have a link about the sprinter issues?
 
As soon as I get things together I will strt a build page. Still in the planning though
 
I was thinking that spray foam would be great for all the cavities I can not put sheets of foam in.
 
On my old work van - every time I had a 1/2 can left over - I would find a cavity to squirt it in --- stopped a lot of the rattles --
 
Karl, thanks for the link! I'm on that forum, so I'm surprised I haven't found that discussion before.

It seems the problems using foam centered around applying it while being at an elevation of 6200 feet. Then when he drove to sea level, the panels warped.

I can imagine if one were to install the foam at sea level, then drive to Denver, ones van would warp as the foam expands 20%. So, I'm no longer considering spray foam as a viable option. It's great for a house, which never changes elevation.
 
The great stuff foam should not be used near steel. open cell foam, traps moisture causes rot.

Somebody here contacted them and a tech responded that if it is not allowed to expand as much as it possibly can, it remains corrosive.

This product 'Great Stuff' is meant for Stick and brick homes. Its use for our purposes is similar to aiming a gun at ones foot and playing with the trigger.

I'd have a Lot more steel around my windshield if i had never used it.
 
They also have a product for ponds and waterfalls. Don't know anything about it but it seems to be waterproof (or mislabeled)
 

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