Spray Can Foam Insulation

[Woltz]

So I've got a major problem with my truck and am looking to save for a vehicle after a surgery. Thinking a cargo van would do. If, I can, I'll trade the truck for one. I'll keep looking for a trade if I can but otherwise I'll scrap it and put the rest of my money towards a van.

EITHER WAY!!! That spray can foam insulation. Does anyone here use it and if so, how well does it keep your van insulated? Michigan winters can get cold and I want a option that'll keep the heat from a wood stove in place. And to add to the question. Has anyone used a hot wire to smooth out the foam after it's expanded?

 

[ratfink56]

Not popular in the van world but school bus people seem to like it. Too much in a tight space will warp sheet metal. Difficult to control the flow rate. And so damn messy.

Polyiso sheets are a very good alternative. R3 in a 1/2 inch thickness. And Reflectix as the top layer to hold the heat in.

 

[John61CT]

The two-part kits are better if you're using a lot. The % closed cells is a key.

Better still do all the prep but hire a pro outfit to do the actual spray, if you can drive to a house job while they're working there have everything set up it can be just a few hundred.

The "skin" that forms on the outside helps prevent moisture issues. So try for precision, cut as little as necessary. I'd use a saw blade rather than heat, but if the latter wear a good respirator.

Polyiso boards where you can, thick as you can, then spraying to fill gaps and get as completely sealed an envelope as possible will be both more effective and cheaper.

 

[highdesertranger]

I recommend against the consumer stuff you get at hardware stores. from my experience it rots sheet metal. highdesertranger

 

[johnny b]

If you've got a few hours to kill, search this forum and you'll find a large volume of info.

In a nutshell:

There are two general types of foam used in the building industry - 'open cell' and 'closed cell'. Do Not use 'open cell' in a van because it holds water (from condensation) and will rust out the metal.

There are 'DIY Kits' of the proper 2 part 'closed cell' foam, but it ain't cheap and you need a quality respirator. Also need disposable hooded coveralls, booties, goggles and gloves. EVERYTHING you don't want this stuff stuck to in your van MUST be properly masked off (tape and plastic sheeting). Ask yourself, 'do I want to use my van as a guinea pig for learning how to spray this stuff?' It is not forgiving at all and is very hard to correct errors.

The little cans (Home Dept/Lowes etc) should be avoided completely.

Save the expense and aggravation...buy 1/2" thick 4x8 polyiso sheets, some 3M 77 spray glue and some wide foil tape. Layer to inch & half for the ceiling and one inch on the walls. (very cold/hot conditions add another layer or two). The thin sheets are easier to cut and will bend easier to the curves of the vehicle. Don't worry about the ribs, just tape over them connecting to the sheets on either side.

 

[DannyB1954]

The trick to any insulation is don't let it get wet to begin with. A lot of people don't like the spray can foam but then will use sheet foam with a vapor barrier over it. If moisture does get behind the foam it has a hard time evaporating. I used the spray foam for places I could not get to any other way. Things like door pillars roof bows. What I found is it can only be used in thin passes. If you try to fill a large cavity there will be large voids and it will not cure, (at least in a reasonable time period).

What happens is about the outside inch hardens and then seals the rest from air so it is the same as being inside of the can. I made a form around my wheel wells and filled it with the foam. When I went to trim the excess what a gooey mess that was. I used foam board for the roof of my van but then used something unconventional for the walls. I used cellulose inside of plastic bags. It is too much work so I would not recommend it to others. The cellulose is sound deadening, mold resistant, fills voids, and bugs don't like it. I figured the plastic bags would be a good enough vapor barrier. Here is my Youtube video on that. I am not monitized so do not make any money off of views.

 

[leslymill]

The trick to any insulation is don't let it get wet to begin with. A lot of people don't like the spray can foam but then will use sheet foam with a vapor barrier over it. If moisture does get behind the foam it has a hard time evaporating. I used the spray foam for places I could not get to any other way. Things like door pillars roof bows. What I found is it can only be used in thin passes. If you try to fill a large cavity there will be large voids and it will not cure, (at least in a reasonable time period).

What happens is about the outside inch hardens and then seals the rest from air so it is the same as being inside of the can. I made a form around my wheel wells and filled it with the foam. When I went to trim the excess what a gooey mess that was. I used foam board for the roof of my van but then used something unconventional for the walls. I used cellulose inside of plastic bags. It is too much work so I would not recommend it to others. The cellulose is sound deadening, mold resistant, fills voids, and bugs don't like it. I figured the plastic bags would be a good enough vapor barrier. Here is my Youtube video on that. I am not monitized so do not make any money off of views.

Great series....I wish I could understand the wood framing part. I think I will have to put back the ugly dodge molding because of my lousy (non-existent) carpenter skills. I could resort to modge podge.