Speculating on Van

[B and C]

Levelling gets a lot quicker each time you do it. When you pull up to a spot, look at your level before you get out. You may want to move around the spot a little to find a place where tall blocks are not required. This will give you an indication of how much and what part needs to be raised. The picture you show looks like if you pulled a wheelbase length forward, there would be a lot less leveling to do. I carry a set of plastic tri-levelers that take care of my leveling needs. Similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Tri-Le...ocphy=9027693&hvtargid=pla-598070449613&psc=1

I find the exact spot I want to be in and note the level for what needs to be raised where and how much. I get out and put the tri-levelers next to the tire that needs raising with the axel positioned where the "step" on the leveler is that I want to use. Get back in, pull forward or backward a little. Get out and slide the leveler into the tire tracks without moving them forward or backward. Get back in and pull onto the blocks while looking at the level in the cab. If my backend is downhill, I like to back onto the levelers.

 

[ckelly78z]

Here in NW Ohio, since China stopped buying scrap metal, the price per ton for shredder steel (cans/vans/trucks/dirty steel) is well under $100 a ton so the "scrap price" for a 6000# empty cargo van would be $200-$300. For that price, you can find a used/rebuilt trans, patch up the rockers with some sheet metal, and rivets, and run it pretty cheaply.

I would budget a decent amount for the proper new tires, whatever the brakes need, all new fluids throughout, new hoses, and belts, and obviously all new filters everywhere.

For less than $2000 including purchase price, you will have a van that should be fairly reliable for a long time....especially a long wheelbase van that has extra interior room. You will then need to fit it out for living space with whatever materials you want.

 

[B and C]

Be sure to check the brake lines and gas lines for rust while under there. You don't want your brakes to go out. Rust=shudder.

 

[jim solo]

This Friend of mine is damn hard to catch up with. I'll have to run over to his Mothers house and
have her hold him by the ear till I get there. He is busy keeping folks home cool. This my take
longer than I want to wait to get a price.

 

[CityWoman]

'96 was the first year for OBDII.

True true.  <96 ,  pre-96.   Maybe more accurate is <95.

Post-96,  >96,  would be OBD2.

96 starts OBDII
94 had R134a, not R12, so 96 is R134a

I hope no one minds my asking, but what the heck is an OBDI or OBD2???

 

[B and C]

It is the diagnostics for the computer in the vehicle. OBD = on board diagnostics. The first ones were OBD1 and the new one (currently in use) is OBDII

 

[Qxxx]

For many years, you have been able to buy OBD readers for cheap, and get a rough estimate of internal problems before taking your rig to the shop. The OBDII connector is standardized, just plug in.

https://www.google.com/search?q=obd+readers&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X

 

[user 25174]

I say shop around some more.
You've got a class C, and provided it too isn't a money pit you just might find someone with a newer, far less labor intensive to make livable van .. like me.
I'm sure I am not alone in thinking a class C might be a better fit for my circumstances.
I know this is not the forum for trading, etc.
However it seems an alternative which may solve 2 concerns.

 

[jim solo]

Finally caught up with the friend. Got more pictures, as many as I could, Link is below.
Floor is solid, glass is all clear, cargo area is clean as a whistle. Reverse gear is out on tranny,
The rust in the pictures is a trailer hitch thing. Brake fluid canister was empty, no sign of leak
on ground. Radiator on top was dry, didn't see any ground marking stains. Doors are solid,
and shut tight good rubber seals on them.

I didn't take doghouse off, but what I could see from under the hood, looks like a in line 6 banger.
He said he might let it go for $ 200.oo . I'm not sure if the reverse gear could be fixed at a low cost.
Tires will need replaced. I think I can do the work on it, except transmission, if it is more the a linkage ?

I was amazed at how the cargo area had nothing but dust on it. It looks to be a ten foot bed in it.
He just wants his parts racks and tools out of it. I wish I could have gotten more pictures. I will
negotiate with him for a week or two, if anyone can spot any troubles let me know.

Link to photos HERE !

 

[highdesertranger]

that van was ridden hard and put away wet. I see rust all along the bottom. is that wet spot on the asphalt from the van? it sure looks that way. trans is toast that's not cheap, plus I am willing to bet by the looks of it there are several other issues. for a parts van I would jump on it perfect price, but for something that you want to fix up and make reliable to me it looks like it's going to cost a lot of money highdesertranger

 

[jim solo]

Yeah, after I got a better look at it, I thought it would be good for parts only.
Part vehicle is what it is. Wouldn't even be good for farm use with out a lot of
work. Well, I will keep looking.

The body is in good shape, interior looks clean and dry. Might be able to use it as a
storage shed if I had a place to prop it up on blocks. Without becoming an
eyesore. Find a lemon make lemon aid !

 

[highdesertranger]

yeah if it was close to me and it was a Chevy square body truck I would be all over it for parts. highdesertranger