Solar to charge Stanley power pack?

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Gypsy Jane

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I want to get a Renogy 100watt suitcase. I have a Stanley power pack (jump starter, compressor, charge phones) which is sufficient for my power needs but needs to be recharged more often than I want to take it somewhere and plug it in. How would I connect the solar to charge it. I prefer not to buy a separate additional battery if I don't need it, as the Stanley is a battery.
 
Gypsy Jane said:
I want to get a Renogy 100watt suitcase. I have a Stanley power pack (jump starter, compressor, charge phones) which is sufficient for my power needs but needs to be recharged more often than I want to take it somewhere and plug it in. How would I connect the solar to charge it. I prefer not to buy a separate additional battery if I don't need it, as the Stanley is a battery.

This is on Amazon and would work. 
$259.99 Prime

Renogy 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Foldable Solar Suitcase

61-Usob2xEL._SL1000_.jpg

713Nfflgi2L._SL1000_.jpg
 
Yes, that's what I'm gonna get. Just wondering how best to charge my Stanley, which normally charges by ac or cig plug.
 
Gypsy Jane said:
Yes, that's what I'm gonna get. Just wondering how best to charge my Stanley, which normally charges by ac or cig plug.

It sounds like you're saying you're not going to have a dedicated house battery, but instead sometimes hook the solar up to your Stanley jump start thing. It's worth mentioning that the jump start pack is not a deep cycle battery and it's probably not going to be happy being used this way in the long term.

If you had a dedicated house battery, you would charge your Stanley pack by wiring that cig plug option up to the house battery. The house battery would be connected to the solar.

If you're making this work without a dedicated house battery, then I suppose you would wire your cig plug end up to where the solar charge controller would normally be connected to a battery. Some connection other than a ciggy plug would probably be a good idea for this.
 
TMG is right hook it up to the ciggy plug. is that Stanley meant to be used like a deep cycle battery? might want to look into that. in most cases those jumper packs make for poor house batteries. highdesertranger
 
There is another thread about jump packs.

https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-900Amp-Jump-Starter-or

I looked at several of these for that thread and they all had a sealed lead acid battery between 12 and 18 AH. They are not intended to be used as a deep cycle battery. 
If money is tight you use what you have.   If the money is available a true deep cycle 35 AH battery can be found for $60 to $75.
 
The Asian AGM batteries commonly found in jumperpacks are not great batteries, and the plastic packaging it comes in seems to impart the consumer with more confidence in the product than deserves.


The following battery or one extremely similar is found in the bulk of jumper packs:

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Pow...e=UTF8&qid=1457115189&sr=1-8&keywords=ub12120

Note on the side it says 3.6amps maximum charge current in both stand by and cyclic use.

The 100 watt renogy suitcase solar can exceed this.  If the battery were depleted and you hook up the 100 watt panel in full sun, the battery's 3.6 amp charge rate could be exceeded, possibly  leading to thermal runaway of the battery, or its venting.

batterythermalrunaway02.jpg


Since by nature one can set up the solar panel only temporarily, the charge controller can be skipped and the panel hooked directly to the battery.  a 50 to 60 watt panel would likely remain under this 3.6 amp maximum, and as long as one does not let the battery voltage exceed 14.9v, which requires human monitoring it, and a voltmeter. 

 Recharging this weakass  jumperpack AGM battery from solar panel directly is certainly possible.  It could be as easy as wiring on a Ciggy plug directly to (12v nominal) solar panel leads, and one could save a bunch of $$$  buying a 60 watt framed panel, compared to a suitcase solar package.  One could also clamp the leads onto bare wire and avoid ciggy plugs which are horrible wasteful unreliable electrical connectors.

If leaving unattended when charging, then a controller is required to keep voltage from exceeding 14.9v.

These jumper packs are kind of a joke on the consumer.  One pays highly for their convenience.  The electronic guts within are cheap as can possibly be, the heart, the battery, is not intended for deep cycling, nor can it handle high recharge rates, nor does it have low self discharge of better AGM batteries.

  Deep cycling these jumper packs will render their battery useless for jump starting quite quickly, within  40 to 50 cycles, but it depends on the engine and battery it has to assist as to whether it can do its job.

I recommend these jumper packs are kept for their original purpose, jump starting a weak vehicle battery, and kept at full charge for when that task becomes necessary.

Use the vehicle battery to power small loads,  When this engine battery becomes  too weak to start the engine, use the fully charged and still healthy jumper pack to start, then drive to recharge, and hopefully be able to plug in to reach a true 100% charge, which takes hours no matter what.

 When the starting battery fails from deep cycling, get  the largest marine battery which will fit to replace it.

If one cycles the jumper pack, the battery will likely not have enough gusto to help jump start the engine, rendering it nearly useless and instilling its owner with a false confidence.

The batteries within these jumper packs are not hard to replace, but sometimes one needs a long reach torx bit or other specialized tool to open them up to replace the ~25$  cheapo Asian AGM battery inside.
 
Thanks for all your input, y'all. Yes, I know the Stanley isn't a true deep cycle battery. I learned about them in 1995 with my first motorhome. The Stanley's purpose in life is to keep my cell phone charged when I'm traveling / camping in the van or tipi, where portability and simplicity are more important. I've been using it quite successfully for this for about two years now. Eventually it will fall and I'll get another one, because that's all I need. Currently I'm in one place for a couple of months, and recharged the pack weekly at a friend's, but solar will be much more convenient.
 
Yah ditto most people buy on looks, all those POS jumpers look so frikken cool that red "snap-on" plastic the little lights and POS radio, someone stop me please, that said if it's all you have at least you have that, I have been called arrogant even a snob, i try to hold back but sometimes it's overwhelming and overpowers my little brain, carry on and good morning to all.
 
A cell phone doesn't take much power to charge so it can be charged off the van battery with a car charger without affecting the battery starting the van. Or get a solar battery pack for charging cell phones. They will be cheaper than a full size solar panel and plug directly into your cell phone.
 
A new Stanley power pack will be the same price ($80) as a group 24 12-volt 100amp trolling motor battery at Walmart.
 
I can and do charge it off the van battery when that is convenient. My cig plug does not have power when the ignition is off. If I put it to accessory, I have to leave the key in. If I'm in my TIPI for a 2 week camp, and the van is a couple of miles away in the parking lot, the Stanley is right under the cot. Does it make sense yet? Yes I could and have carried a deep cycle battery but the Stanley is a bit smaller, lighter, easier to handle, safely enclosed (we get weather at these events), and has a light and air compressor besides. (No radio thank goodness.) Does it make sense yet?
Really I was looking for experienced advice on physically hooking the solar kit, which I understand has alligator clips, to the Stanley, which has nothing to clip them to. I expect I'll wire up a cig plug, unreliable as those outlets are, unless someone shares a better idea.
 
Can't imagine why.

wagoneer said:
....someone stop me please, that said if it's all you have at least you have that, I have been called arrogant even a snob, ...
 
You can hook the renogy clips/clamps to the stanley clamps. A possible issue is on many clamps, only one side of the jaw is actually wired, so one must make sure the jaws that are wired are mating, and of course make sure the (+) can't touch the(-) with some type of protective sleeve

The clamp to clamp hook up is not as neat/ergonomic as a ciggy plug, but it will outperform a ciggy plug, and not cutting the clamps on the renogy kit saves the warranty.
 
You could make your own 12v plug with ring terminals and then get something like this:

Battery Post Terminals

Attach the ring terminals to the posts, maybe glue or somehow or the other fasten the post terminals to your power pack if you want.  Or put them on a piece of wood or something.  Then when you want to charge the power pack, you just clamp the solar panel clamps to the battery posts that already have the ring terminals attached to them and that are the other end of the 12v plug that is in turn plugged into the power pack. 

Hope this makes sense.


12 volt plug with rings already attached

Directions to make ring terminals on wire
 
StarEcho said:
... you just clamp the solar panel clamps to the battery posts that already have the ring terminals attached to them and that are the other end of the 12v plug that is in turn plugged into the power pack. 

Hope this makes sense....

It does! Thank you!
 
Folks, I know you all mean well, but Gypsy Jane has a very specific problem and has found a very good solution that works very well for her.

She does not need all our advice about how to solve that problem--PLEASE STOP GIVING IT TO HER!

We're so busy trying to solve a non-problem we aren't helping her with the one real problem she has.

Can we please focus on helping her solve that problem?
Bob
 

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