Solar RC Battery Recharge station.
- Thread starter BobW55
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If anyone finds a good deal on two 24 volt mono 150 watt panels let me know.
I had found them a few days ago, think I can find the link again? I found some GT panels but they only want to sell em by the pallet.
Would rather use two (for mounting ease) than one big 300 watt.
Thanks
I had found them a few days ago, think I can find the link again? I found some GT panels but they only want to sell em by the pallet.
Would rather use two (for mounting ease) than one big 300 watt.
Thanks
If you want a good deal, decent bang for the buck, and free shipping, why not buy 2 or 3 of these:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-S...ts-and-12-Volt-Systems-GS-Star-100W/204211365
Yes, they are poly, but they work well for me.
You can wire them in parallel for PWM, or series with MPPT.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-S...ts-and-12-Volt-Systems-GS-Star-100W/204211365
Yes, they are poly, but they work well for me.
You can wire them in parallel for PWM, or series with MPPT.
Those would be perfect of they were 24 volt @150 Watts.
I am space limited. I could fit one 300 watt panel, but a bear to lift and install. Two 150 watt panels gives me a few more mounting options.
not like I need them today.
I am space limited. I could fit one 300 watt panel, but a bear to lift and install. Two 150 watt panels gives me a few more mounting options.
not like I need them today.
BobW55 said:
Three 100 watt 12v panels produce about the same power as 2 24v 150 watt panels....is what I'm saying.
Large residential panels are great, but it's the shipping that really squeezes your wallet.
John61CT said:
Efficiency matters, but so do watt/hours produced per dollar spent...which includes shipping.
If it costs twice as much total cash outlay, to produce only a couple more watt/hours per day, its hardly worth it, UNLESS every watt counts, no matter the cost.
Only the end user can make that watts-per-dollar decision, which is also based on ease of installation, warranty, customer support, and of course, personal preferences.
I know.... Choices Choices...
24 volt panel system is just a hair bit better, not a bunch.
Trying to look more at the cost/watt than anything.
300 watts into an MPPT would satisfy my usage.
Also have a local place I am waiting on a price from 100 Watt/12Volt X3.
I will go with an MPPT CC no matter what. just better for future expansion.
24 volt panel system is just a hair bit better, not a bunch.
Trying to look more at the cost/watt than anything.
300 watts into an MPPT would satisfy my usage.
Also have a local place I am waiting on a price from 100 Watt/12Volt X3.
I will go with an MPPT CC no matter what. just better for future expansion.
Finally settled on three 100 watt 12 volt mono panels $90 each from a local seller. I think they are Renogy's but not sure till I see them later this week.
Getting this charge controller :EPEVER 30A MPPT Solar Charge Controller 100V PV Negative Grounded Tracer 3210AN , mounting brackets and Y cables and such from Amazon.
Now looking for a fuse/terminal block.
Trailer is suppose to be here tomorrow. Still have to go see my friend at the golf cart place for a couple of 6 volt batteries.
Then the real fun starts.
Thanks for the advise and help.
Getting this charge controller :EPEVER 30A MPPT Solar Charge Controller 100V PV Negative Grounded Tracer 3210AN , mounting brackets and Y cables and such from Amazon.
Now looking for a fuse/terminal block.
Trailer is suppose to be here tomorrow. Still have to go see my friend at the golf cart place for a couple of 6 volt batteries.
Then the real fun starts.
Thanks for the advise and help.
Another question popped into mind.
Since I plan on recharging LIPO batteries. I want to build a work station into the nose area of the trailer. I want to use something more fire resistant than just wood. (Rare but LIPO's do catch fire) I can not use metal, too conductive. I thought about coating the top in fiberglass.
Also thought about using tile as I have a bunch of 1" square tile floating around here, but worried it would crack from being bounced around on the road.
Any ides?
Since I plan on recharging LIPO batteries. I want to build a work station into the nose area of the trailer. I want to use something more fire resistant than just wood. (Rare but LIPO's do catch fire) I can not use metal, too conductive. I thought about coating the top in fiberglass.
Also thought about using tile as I have a bunch of 1" square tile floating around here, but worried it would crack from being bounced around on the road.
Any ides?
Blue SeaBobW55 said:
> Still have to go see my friend at the golf cart place for a couple of 6 volt batteries.
Be sure to compare to the Duracell / Deka listed above.
A "friend discount" does not guarantee you're actually getting best value, $200 all up for 200+AH in true deep cycle from a company like Deka is pretty hard to beat.
Do not use Interstate or other relabeler brand, usually JCI is the actual manufacturer.
Unless 30-50% cheaper per AH than the Duracell FLA.
Only accept second-hand if like 80-90% cheaper.
BobW55 said:
FRP. You can buy it in 4x8 sheets, usually white, but can be ordered in a few neutral shades like gray and tan, or black. You have seen this in restrooms and commercial kitchens. It's a durable, textured, waterproof, easy to work with material.
It can be cut with a jigsaw, circular saw, table saw, or scored on the back side, with a utility knife, along a straight edge, and then snapped off. If you use a circular saw or jigsaw, use a fine tooth blade, do it outside, its messy, and be sure to wear googles and a particle mask. Gloves too, because the cut edges will be jagged and sometimes sharp. Then just sand the edges.
I use this stuff in a lot of ways: workbench top surface, backsplash for a desk, loose pieces to solder over, makeshift cutting boards, insulating pieces in electrical/electronic projects....etc etc.
Check Home Depot or Lowes, or any building supply or larger hardware store.
I would work on an awning setup and only do the LiPo charging outside the living space.BobW55 said:
How often do you go flying when weather's real bad anyway?
A pelican-style or ammo case or two, maybe get a custom deck CNC'd, put that work into making your RC charging functions nice and portable.
There is no living space. This is a transport, storage, workshop trailer.
Other that rain or high wind we fly year round. Take the wheels off and put ski's on.
Right now my charging is portable, but very inconvenient, real pain to raise the hood, clamp the charger terminals to the battery, try to balance the charger in the engine area and the battery. It works, but a pain to use.
Plan is to mount the 12 volt battery in the center front of the V nose. Electrical charge controller and and distribution (fuse panel) and the left side of the V nose, right side will have the 700 watt inverter I have should I need to use a soldering iron of something AC. And a work table/charge station spanning the width of the V nose.
Other that rain or high wind we fly year round. Take the wheels off and put ski's on.
Right now my charging is portable, but very inconvenient, real pain to raise the hood, clamp the charger terminals to the battery, try to balance the charger in the engine area and the battery. It works, but a pain to use.
Plan is to mount the 12 volt battery in the center front of the V nose. Electrical charge controller and and distribution (fuse panel) and the left side of the V nose, right side will have the 700 watt inverter I have should I need to use a soldering iron of something AC. And a work table/charge station spanning the width of the V nose.
May just use some wood and fire resistant paint.
I keep temperature sensors on my batteries as I charge, I have it set so if they go 3 degrees above ambient it shuts down the charger. Never had one do that yet, but I don't charge at real high levels even though the batteries could take it.
I'll think of something.
I keep temperature sensors on my batteries as I charge, I have it set so if they go 3 degrees above ambient it shuts down the charger. Never had one do that yet, but I don't charge at real high levels even though the batteries could take it.
I'll think of something.
John61CT said:
So are lead acid batteries, solar controllers, insulated wire, cellphones, nylon backpacks, laptop batteries, plywood sheets, poly-iso foam boards, lithium batteries, foam seat covers, gasoline, diesel, and all the foam, and vinyl, and plastic used in every car, van, truck, bus, airplane, and RV ever made.
I have not seen you discount the uses of any of those.
Like every other building material (such as wood!) we use in our everyday lives.
I have seen foam boards melt instantly from a nearby heat source, unlike FRP which is quite tolerant of small flames in close proximity for short periods.
I'm not sure anything we use to build these RVs, vans, trailers, etc will ever be NON-toxic in a raging fire, unless you can figure out how to build walls with pure water. Would I recommend using FRP to line your propane oven, or burn in a firepit for warmth on a cold winter night? Ummm...no.
But FRP is in use in millions of buildings worldwide.
So this so-called 'reason' to avoid FRP can be safely ignored.
