Solar panel max length on e350 and mounting

[John61CT]

The Rhino version is better IMO, lets you use feet from either company.

The ones for Sprinter are very long, and there is also a generic set. Either can be cut with a hacksaw, the end caps are what gives it a neat finish either way.

The etrailer reps are very helpful, but getting "creative" outside the canned option may cause some confusion.

Their guarantee policy is excellent too.

 

[user 37446]

I’d say forget about the stealth worry and focus on the maximum you can reasonably afford that doesnt get shaded by the cross rails. As far as mounting height, the slimline F Fan would tuck under a 4-5 inch rise of your panels and then be protected from the rain.
Also the more panel you have, the more shading you have made for your roof.

Again, I’ve gone away from being concerned with the stealth aspect, you want performance. LEO’s will figure it out unless you have a magnetic sign advertising for “solar consulting”, ha ha.

At last someone’s original post I could read without glasses. Getting old sucks.

 

[frater secessus]

I really like how you mounted those panels. I was thinking I would be putting the panels on top of the actual crossbar, but yours is flush and looks much nicer. 

I did it that way mainly to keep from increasing the already-ludicrous height / wind noise, to provide a bit of protection, and so I could carry something on the racks if needed without touching the panels.

why do you have to angle beams butt up against each other? Or is one of them a shorter bracket at the bolt points?

I did that because the main/upper supports are aluminum. I put a steel angle under them to help distribute weight and support them. If I were doing it again I just use the steel angle bits and would not need the underside support. And would have saved some $$$.

This pic is during the installation but maybe you can see how I was supporting the aluminum.

 

[user 37446]

I did it that way mainly to keep from increasing the already-ludicrous height  / wind noise, to provide a bit of protection, and so I could carry something on the racks if needed without touching the panels.  



I did that because the main/upper supports are aluminum. I put a steel angle under them to help distribute weight and support them.  If I were doing it again I just use the steel angle bits and would not need the underside support.  And would have saved some $$$.

This pic is during the installation but maybe you can see how I was supporting the aluminum.

Even though you aren't a big "stealth" fan, that van, with it's height and the flush mount, is a really good way of doing things.

 

[lifemonkey]

The Rhino version is better IMO, lets you use feet from either company.

The ones for Sprinter are very long, and there is also a generic set. Either can be cut with a hacksaw, the end caps are what gives it a neat finish either way.

The etrailer reps are very helpful, but getting "creative" outside the canned option may cause some confusion.

Their guarantee policy is excellent too.

So, some clarifying questions/thoughts.. 
Is the only reason you're opposed to the gutter mount towers because of appearance? Or is there additional concern of stability? 

If I were to go with a track system, the track from Rhino is 113" long.. not bad, but I would be losing about 10-12" of usable length (if I were to go with flush mount. If I were to install on top of the crossbars, it's a moot point). 

(for simplicity) I'm not opposed to the gutter mount towers from either Rhino or Yakima, although, on etrailer, they do state to be cautious going off-road with the Rhino gutter mounts - which makes me believe there are stability questions with gutter mounts. They are rated for 165 lbs and two of these panels would only weigh 80 lbs. But I don't want my panels to go flying off at some point when I hit a rock or dip (or down the freeway, or city street for that matter). 

Since these track systems do not appear to be "designed" for my van, I would be totally customizing which is ... hmm.. I guess the whole point behind converting a van  

 

[John61CT]

Yes the 113" is longest I think.

This gets anchored down with PlusNuts in your roof steel, only need access from the top, nothing is more secure.

​http://www.bollhoff-usa.com/static/pdf/downloadcenter/EN/RIVNUT-US-version-EN.pdf

Ask Bollhoff for a source near you

​Stainless part # SS10p175 note the SS, about a buck each - Yakima sells a pack for $80!

make sure to buy the purpose built tool right size, at the same time

Gutter mount can vibrate loose and the track system really looks a lot better IMO, very streamlined.

Paint the hole edge with zinc galv paint, bed down with this butyl ​ http://shop.marinehowto.com/products/bed-it-tape , google for HowTo's

I would see if you can attach angle directly to the anchoring hardware into the track, would be very low profile.