Solar Install Service

[ZoNiE]

I realize doing this during the RTR would have been a better idea, but I just worked out some deals with suppliers.

Would any folks here be willing to pay for solar system installs? I'm working out fair pricing for van sized installs. I can install packages I put together myself with new surplus panels I get from solar installers that have leftovers. The cost per watt is very good with these. I can get my hands on a lot of 280W panels right now. They are about 3.5ft wide by 6.25 ft long. Two should fit side by side on top of a full size Van with a roof rack, but a single panel would fit on just about anything. I could offer Renogy installs as well, but the cost for the kit and the labor would be higher since there are more panels and the qty of them makes it more complex, and more time consuming.

Systems:
Single 280 Watt panel with 30A controller: $840 solar only ($3/Watt) add $440 for 300W Pure sine inverter.
 .                         -or-
Dual 280 watt panels, 560W with 60A controller: $1,400 solar only ($2.50/Watt) add $625 for 600W pure sine inverter.
Includes:
All brackets, wiring, fuses, hardware, Dicor sealant, etc.
Connect to your existing Battery Bank
All Labor and a workmanship warranty
Manufacturers warranties on components as available

I run an automation and controls business and have years of electrical and quite a bit of mobile solar install experience and carry rather expensive liability insurance. Adding solar installs is a good excuse to spend some time on the road in my RV.

I get that money is tight for many, and using the usual guys may cost up to $5 per watt. It seems that there are a lot of folks here who cannot do this themselves, but also don't have the funds to go to a regular solar shop, and many shops may not do these small jobs at all. RV and Auto places charge $100-$125 per hour and this could easily be $600-1,000 just for labor at those places. Yes, I am making a few bucks. I'm trying to make a modest living and help others.

Regarding batteries, I would need to see what you have and quote then. I would recommend two 6V golf cart batteries, but a single 12V deep cycle is fine to start if that is what you have. I work with several fabricators who can make brackets and sheetmetal boxes, including powdercoat, so if you have a specific desire to have something made, I can put you in touch with them. They are reasonable and good quality. One guy also builds trailers.

Let me know via PM if interested. I want to gauge interest and if there is enough, I can buy the panels, controllers, etc, and come to a common location and do several at one time. A lot of you are in Arizona right now, and I live in Phoenix, so I could come to a bunch of you or you could come to my shop in Tempe. I'd have to do at least two in one trip to someplace like Quartzite to make it feasible for me cost-wise. The more orders I get, the better the pricing becomes due to volume that I can pass along. The discounts aren't earth shattering, but everything helps.

Mods, If this is not allowed, please let me know and delete or move to the market place, however, I think this is a good place for it.

Pricing is good for the time being, as usual, subject to change.

I'm actually putting these panels on my own coach right now.

Thanks,
Chris.

 

[GotSmart]

Thank you for stepping up.  I am getting too old to keep doing this.

 

[ZoNiE]

Thank you for stepping up.  I am getting too old to keep doing this.

Have you been doing this for the group?

 

[kllcbosmetris]

... add $440 for 300W Pure sine inverter

What kind of 300w pure sine inverter? What is the difference between the one you are using and the one that can be purchased for $33?

 

[John61CT]

Quality units like Magnum, Sterling, Victron, Outback, MasterVolt and Vanner can't be compared to generic offbrand junk, cost thousands.

Also, inverters are sometimes integrated with a high-amp charger.

 

[GeorgiePorgie]

I might be interested when it gets warmer, but don't have a van yet and have to work a few more months.

 

[ZoNiE]

What kind of 300w pure sine inverter? What is the difference between the one you are using and the one that can be purchased for $33?

Well, for one, it is Pure sine, not modified. And it includes installation, wire, connectors, fuses, etc.
I'm thinking of using the Go-Power Units. They get good reviews and I have seen some detailed tech reviews on them and their siblings...

That Bestek inverter is not always $33, and it appears that it has noise issues.

...And, I can't work for free, and Industrial Liability Insurance costs me $8K per year, so there is that...

 

[jimindenver]

Thank you for stepping up.  I am getting too old to keep doing this.

You ain't the only one. Class A basements are much too close to the ground.

 

[Weight]

Do you have any references or photos of what you have built? Do you have more ways to mount panels than glue or ladder racks?

 

[ZoNiE]

I don't use glue, but am considering the VHB tape on long square aluminum tubes for those who don't want all the penetrations in their van roof. I would mount two long tubes to the roof and then screw the z-brackets to those. The other reason I am considering that is that a van roof is just sheetmetal, and many people's builds would prevent putting stiffening plates underneath.

I use sheetmetal or wood screws depending on mounting surface, and Z-brackets sealed with Dicor. I will post some pics when I get them moved to a hosting site that I can link to. So Far I have only done RV's, not vans, but I suspect that people are struggling with ways to install on vans, hence the reason I am looking at doing this.

 

[John61CT]

I don't use glue, but am considering the VHB tape on long square aluminum tubes for those who don't want all the penetrations in their van roof. I would mount two long tubes to the roof and then screw the z-brackets to those. The other reason I am considering that is that a van roof is just sheetmetal, and many people's builds would prevent putting stiffening plates underneath.

Not for those avoiding holes, but have a look at the "tracks" sold by RhinoRack.

Come in various profiles and lengths, for generic the Sprinter version is longest, easy to cut with a hacksaw.

Totally flexible to change, move mounted gear around as needed.

Mounted with stainless PlusNuts (very strong rivnut / nutserts) no need for access to the roof underside.

Spreads even very heavy loads out so no stiffeners needed.

Plain hardware can be used with the generic round bars, or fancy aerodynamic (quieter) profiles are available.

Compatible also with Yakima "feet" so tons of mounts for skis, boats, bikes, cargo carriers, etc, active secondhand market on eBay.

etrailer.com

 

[ZoNiE]

yeah that drives up cost, and cost is already an issue here. I am trying to put a low cost, but quality solution together for people. If they already have a rack, then I will adapt to that. Hence the use of the aluminum tubing.

 

[future_vandweller]

add $440 for 300W Pure sine inverter.
 .                         -or-
 add $625 for 600W pure sine inverter.

Putting things in perspective, a Sunforce 1000 W pure sine wave inverter on Amazon for $232 with CA tax.

 

[kllcbosmetris]

Well, for one, it is Pure sine, not modified. And it includes installation, wire, connectors, fuses, etc.
I'm thinking of using the Go-Power Units. They get good reviews and I have seen some detailed tech reviews on them and their siblings...

That Bestek inverter is not always $33, and it appears that it has noise issues.

...And, I can't work for free, and Industrial Liability Insurance costs me $8K per year, so there is that...

Just to clarify: The one I pointed out is a pure sine inverter as well, not modified. I do not know anything about the brand comparison though. That is why I asked.

 

[Weight]

Those RinoRacks look interesting. But I can't find any information about the material they use. Because of compound curve of my van roof, I used Uni-Strut. I could only fasten at three points on each 'rail' to maintain straight and flat mounting of the panels. The Uni-Strut works well, but it is steel and heavier than more expensive aluminum.

 

[John61CT]

Aluminum, use plastic washers between the SS PlusNuts and the tracks, and bed the track in quality butyl tape.

The track will bend a bit vertically to follow a gentle curve as you tighten the PlusNuts, just start drilling and tightening from one end and work your way to the other, rather than doing both ends first.

Or cut and mount segments as needed, I'm sure you could ask for extra endcaps for aesthetics.

 

[Weight]

I needed to "flatten" the curve of my roof. There are many ways to bend rails to a curve. That would not have worked. Heavier but only $18 for 10 foot section is why I picked Uni-Strut.

 

[John61CT]

It's only the track that conforms to the curve.

The plane formed by the rack's support rails ends up being as flat as you need it to be.

But yes it's not the cheap solution.