So I bought a truck...

[Markw]

I am soon (hopefully very soon) going to be in a position where I will have very little in the way of bills (without going into too much detail I have been helping a friend out for the past few years and they came into a house they are going to let me live in rent free).  This puts me in a position where I should be able to save up a very nice emergency fund while at the same time be able to do the work on my truck that I want to do plus work on converting a cargo trailer that I can actually get good prices on where I live.

   The truck I bought is a 1998 Nissan Frontier that I picked up for $700.  It had a few problems here and there, but ODB scanner didn't show any major issues.  Then the head gasket blew while I was on my way to work on night.  Not really a MAJOR issue as I can replace it myself (both my friend and I know how to work on cars, so a head gasket job isn't as big an issue as it usually sounds like).  Oddly, this got my idea engine going.

   Since the house happens to have a garage attached, as well as a workshop attached to the garage I can do all the work I plan to do inside, which is good.  I can park the truck in the garage and set the whole thing up on a set of good jack stands and leave it there while I work on it.  My plan is to do sort of a small rebuild/upgrade of the truck (including some body work).  Much of this will be preemptive so I don't have to worry about it for a LONG time.

   Below is most of the work I plan to do:

• Full brake system replacement on all four wheels (including new rotors, drums, calipers, springs etc).
• Replace all four wheel bearings.
• New bushings all around.
• Add load leveler kit
• New shocks/struts all around.
• Full engine cleanup (my term for it...basically while I have the head off at the machine shop clean up the pistons, drop and clean out the oil pan etc)
• All new bulbs and such in the dash (since some appear to be burned out).
• Flush all fluids (oil system, coolant system, clutch, differential etc)
• Replace seats (they are really worn out, will likely switch to bucket to have a space in-between).
• Remove dents (it has a few but there doesn't appear to be any frame damage).
• Replace sensors (MAF, Temp, Knock, Crank Position etc)

   Again, much of what I plan to do is preemptive so when I hit the road I'm not worrying about when it might go out.   

   Is there anything I might want to do that isn't listed above (considering I am going to be pulling a converted cargo trailer)?   Keep in mind that I intend to use the lightweight technique that IntoTheMystery13 did a series of videos on to save weight.

   

   The trailer I am considering is this one:

   http://www.hitchittulsa.com/6x12-v-nose-enclosed-cargo-trailer-jxEb|Iy.html

   Any thoughts on my plans would be appreciated (even negative ones).

 

[CautionToTheWind]

Make sure trailer is white otherwise you'll bake more (if in a hot area). What is the temperature in your area during summers? What are your thoughts on insulating?

 

[Markw]

Make sure trailer is white otherwise you'll bake more (if in a hot area). What is the temperature in your area during summers? What are your thoughts on insulating?

 I linked that particular trailer more for the size and type (I should have mentioned that, sorry).

 As for temperature in the area.  I don't plan to stay in this area once I hit the road (gets really hot in summer and pretty cold in winter).

 Insulating, in my opinion, is a given.  There are quite a few videos on insulating on you-tube and since I will literally have a blank, flat space to work with it should be fairly easy.

  Also, before someone brings it up.  I'm not all that concerned with stealth since I plan to mostly do boondocking with some campground hosting thrown in for a bit of income (may add the beet harvest but I don't think I want to do the Amazon thing as I have seen horror stories on you-tube).

  Another bit of information is that I don't plan on hitting the road really soon.  It will likely be 2-3 years so I can be careful and methodical about building out the truck and trailer, as well as saving up an emergency fund (I want to have a few thousand ready to go at a moment's notice as well as money to live on for the first year or so).  I figure if I have 15-20 saved up I should be OK for a while.

 

[highdesertranger]

is the Nissan a 4cyl or a v-6? if you blow a head gasket on a aluminum head you MUST have the head surfaced and pressure checked. if it's a v-6 do both heads. if it is a deckles block pay special attention to the head sealing surface on the block. do not at anytime run straight water with aluminum heads. it's best to have the radiator cleaned at the same time. btw if you are doing all that work on the heads you should do a valve job at the same time. after all you all ready have the head(s) off. highdesertranger

 

[Markw]

It's a 4 cyl. I had already intended to have the head machined and pressure tested, good point on the valve job, though.  The radiator as well as the oil system I had already planned to do a double flush on both (since the head gasket blew and there is now coolant in the oil...yuck.  The coolant system I was going to flush anyway even before the head gasket blew).  

   Not sure what a deckles engine block is, could you elaborate?

 

[user 37446]

a 1998 4 cyl has a listed tow capacity of 3,500 pounds. You wont want to make that poor little 4 banger work too hard on hills, so make sure you use as lightweight materials in the trailer as possible. 

Consider an overload spring setup for tongue weight. 

I dont remember if it is auto or 5 speed, if auto get a cooler.

 

[user 37446]

a 1998 4 cyl has a listed tow capacity of 3,500 pounds. You wont want to make that poor little 4 banger work too hard on hills, so make sure you use as lightweight materials in the trailer as possible. 

Consider an overload spring setup for tongue weight. 

I dont remember if it is auto or 5 speed, if auto get a cooler.

oh, it's a clutch, disregard the tranny cooler...

Remember when towing that it is the frontal area of the trailer which causes increased wind resistance (so look for a "V" nose cargo trailer) and that means you will struggle to tow a 3,000 pound trailer as compared to say a 3,000 pound boat trailer or car hauler combo.  If you can, use a shell/canopy on the truck to help the air go above the cargo trailer front. Plus you'll want the canopy covered to carry bulky items. Keep the weight in the bed down, at least behind the rear axle, as you have trailer tongue weight to deal with.

Get electric trailer brakes if possible, this increases the cost (many single axle cargo trailers don't have any), but remember your truck brakes are NOT designed to stop anything except the truck.  You have standard front disc and rear drums.

Plan on using LT rated tires instead of P rated car tires.  The stock rims are 15" and the stock tires are either 215/65/15 or 215/75/15's.

This link from the Nissan Frontier forum discusses towing:  http://www.nissanforums.com/truck-suv/55497-towing-w-4-cylinder-frontier.html

"that's all, folks"

 

[masterplumber]

While I'm not a big fan of underpowered towing, back in the 80s we towed everything with a 4 cylinder Toyota. Definitely keep your build minimal and light. You'll be happier on the road. That said, it's doable. My own 6x12 v nose is right at 3500 lbs loaded, but I only paid marginal attention to weight while building, and I carry a 400+ lb motorcycle inside. Rebuilding the trucks mechanicals to like new condition while you have the time, space and income is a really good idea. It will make life so much easier when you hit the road. Nothing wrong with an old truck as long as it's in good shape.

 

[highdesertranger]

here's a pic of a deckles block,



here is a block with a full deck,



I dislike deckles bocks they are prone to head gasket failure.
if you have a deckles block pay extra attention to the area the gasket blew.  put a straight edge on it and look for any erosion of the metal.
highdesertranger

 

[ArtW]

do not at anytime run straight water with aluminum heads. highdesertranger

Have never heard this, HDR, other than the loss of anti boil and lubricating properties, what's wrong with straight water in aluminum heads?

 

[highdesertranger]

if the water were to boil it will eat the aluminum away quick. steam is the worse. on my 6.2 timing cover the PO ran straight water the walls on the water passages were eroded paper thin, they are normally about 3/8+ thick. a matter of a few more weeks it would have eaten clean through. I have seen many an aluminum head ruined from running straight water. highdesertranger

 

[ArtW]

OK, larned somthin new, thanks for the info HDR

 

[Dewave]

Good source for cargo trailer conversions:

http://www.tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=42

 

[GypsyDogs]

a word of advice..
Make SURE it is water tight before starting your build...

just my $.02

 

[Markw]

a word of advice..
Make SURE it is water tight before starting your build...  

just my $.02

You mean the truck?  The trailer will be brand new (I'll still leak test it anyway, but it should not be an issue since it's new).

TWIH: The tires are 235/75R15 Firestone Destination AT all around (they are the ones that were on the truck when I bought it).  I had also planned on using the truck bed for some storage (mostly of spare parts and some tools), so I would definitely be going with a bed cover.  The electric brakes on the trailer is a great tip (and one I was planning on making sure it had).

HDR: Thanks for the info on the deckles block.  I was just looking under the hood and it looks like I won't know until I start the tear down.  The tip on not running straight water is a good one (it is also something I would not do unless I absolutely had to and even then only long enough to get somewhere where I can get some coolant).

MasterPlumber: Thanks for the info. The trailers I am looking into all weigh under 1000 Lbs and my plan is to build in a way to add as little weight as possible.  I am hoping to stay below 2/3rds of the GVWR.  Won't be easy, but I am optimistic.   If I can manage to have the whole build (including the truck) come in under the listed tow rating I think I will be ok.  I plan to use a mix of traditional and foam builds (the foam parts are obviously to save weight) and a retail tubular bed frame (one of those ones that fold in half) which I will bolt to the floor with fabricated stays to keep it from bouncing around.  I may even fabricate the entire bed frame to save money (doesn't really seem too complicated a build on them, mostly just bending metal pipe and adding in some supports).  Fabricating it myself will also have the benefit of making it specifically to store plastic tubs under it.

 

[Almost There]

You mean the truck?  The trailer will be brand new (I'll still leak test it anyway, but it should not be an issue since it's new).

GypsyDogs was referring to a trailer after she went through 'brand new trailer leaking like a sieve' hell for months.

All manufacturers are not equal and some are just totally incompetent but still manage to stay in business somehow.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

You mean the truck?  The trailer will be brand new (I'll still leak test it anyway, but it should not be an issue since it's new).

You would think so, wouldn't you?

Gypsy Dogs has a thread here about the nightmare she went through when a brand new cargo trailer she had already started converting began leaking like a sieve.  She ended up wasting months of her time before the company took it back and gave her her money back.

See:

https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Serenity--20072

 

[Markw]

GypsyDogs was referring to a trailer after she went through 'brand new trailer leaking like a sieve' hell for months.

All manufacturers are not equal and some are just totally incompetent but still manage to stay in business somehow.

   Ahh.  Yeah, I had planned to do that.  I've seen some pretty shoddy work at times on brand new products and also know full well that every industry has folks that care about what they are building, and folks that are there for a paycheck and are only interested in getting to the end of the day.

 

[Markw]

You would think so, wouldn't you?

Gypsy Dogs has a thread here about the nightmare she went through when a brand new cargo trailer she had already started converting began leaking like a sieve.  She ended up wasting months of her time before the company took it back and gave her her money back.

See:

https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Serenity--20072

HOLY MOLY!!  You know, I have been told I have the patience of Job...but Gypsy Dogs has me beat by a MILE.

   If that were me, they would have long ago gotten 'You have two choices.  You can either give me a refund, or I can make sure that the wonderful work you do, complete with very nice pictures of your work, will be all over social media and a circle of friends that buy about as many trailers as you produce in a year will know all about it.  Your choice.'

 

[user 37446]

Gads, i just scanned that mere 23 page thread...  unfortunately if that's how FR/Cargomate builds trailers, gotta wonder how they build travel trailers, 5th wheels and class C's...

Props to Gypsy Dogs!