Shorten a Class A

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DannyB1954

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Anyone ever done it?  Many Class A's , (including mine), have lots of overhang behind the rear wheels. If that were not there, it would be a better size for me. Short Class A's like the Flair are pretty rare. I can do without a king size bed, 4,000 watt generator, large water and waste tanks. Is it as simple as removing the rear cap, cutting everything to length and then putting the cap back on?
 
I don't have an answer for you, but that's interesting. Most try to lengthen vans etc rather than shorten an RV. I'd be curious to see it done.
 
A shorter Class C sounds like a whole lot less work...
 
My Class A has a Detroit Diesel 6v53, an Allison 6 speed transmission, and 3 speed drive shaft over / under drive. At 30' I find it a bit long. If I could chop off the last 8' or so it would be great. I wouldn't have to mess with the drive train as it would be chopped after the rear wheels. The body frame is steel, not wood. The body is fiberglass. I like everything about it really, except the length.
It doesn't have much resale value because it is old, (mid 70's), and heavily modified, (came with a Dodge 440). I was thinking If I could shorten it, I would have a better unit than I could afford to buy in a Class C.

It probably would be more work than it was worth, but I thought it an interesting idea.
 
Sounds doable.  Just have to take care with any tankage, wire runs, plumbing, etc.  People have been chopping, channeling and otherwise modifying vehicles since the first horseless carriages.  Just be careful as you cut, as that metal and fiberglass will have sharp edges.
 
I'd suggest figuring out where all the 'stuff' that's in that last 8' is going to be relocated first before starting to chop.

It's easier in an empty van for example, because there's nothing to be relocated.
 
I'd do it, if you have the time, the place to do it, the proper tools, and the knowledge to do it.


...but that's the kinda stuff that I do, and I can NEVER leave things the way I get 'em.         :cool:
 
Patrick46 pid='157027' dateline='1443796939' said:
...but that's the kinda stuff that I do, and I can NEVER leave things the way I get 'em.         :cool:

One look in his shop and one knowsthe truth to this statement :D
 
I crawled under it today. What is back there is the generator and it's fuel tank, and a fresh water tank above floor level,(under the starboard bunk).
The more I look at it, the bigger the job gets. The point where a splice for the outside would be easy makes the mod to the inside the hardest.
 
of course it can be done. being it's fiberglass makes it a lot easier. you would just need to figure out the fresh water tank and of course all the plumbing and wirering that's back there. I wouldn't remove any of the systems that make it self contained. in some areas that is a prerequisite to camp. btw the shortening of a vehicle is called bobbing. as in "that truck has been bobbed". highdesertranger
 
My only concern would be that in a design, they balance the weight along the distance and this does involve axle placement so the handling might end up being less than what the original design provided for. You could probably allow for this. When designed, it is done sort of like those old-fashioned scales where you balance one end to the other. I had the pleasure of working in a factory direct, custom-design fifth wheel manufacturer, small family owned business. I was in the office and it was interesting to really see how everything comes together. Sadly, when the family sold it, it became "different". They used to sell a small "van mate" type trailer and if they were still in business, I would chose one. Ah, I just long for the good ole' days.
 
I would think that there would be less tail wagging in cross winds, but that it just a guess. I can see where this would be a project that I would start, and not want to finish. There are a lot of complications, and that is probably why it is not done more often. Maybe on a different Class A it would be easier. Building a light weight camper for my 1/2 ton flatbed would be an easier project, or getting a van and putting in an interior.
I am thinking about making the RTR this year, so maybe I will just use it as is.
 
Probably be easier to just buy an older RV. Take it apart to the floor then rebuild it.

I have an old 1978 Class C. It's the kind where they used 2X2 framing stapled together and then covered with aluminum skin. The motor is good (needs an electric fuel pump) and my daughter rebuilt the transmission. It runs pretty good. The RV part is shot. It is on a GMC Vandura 3500 frame (cutaway van chassis). If I had the resources (money) and a place to do it, I would simply scrape the "RV" part off and then rebuild the "RV" part back, better, with a slightly curved roof (damned flat roofs leak!). Then I would have a "new" RV for much less. No hassles in titling because it has a title. Lower insurance because it's an "older" vehicle. As it is, I'm going to try to sell it ($1K OBO). Otherwise it will have to be scrapped. If it turns out it will be scrapped, I will pull the appliances out and sell them.

You can get a "hunter's special" pretty cheap in most places. Most manufactured RVs have leaky roofs too.
 
to expand on compassrose

i see these for sale pretty regularly

00P0P_7ApezWZGu7c_600x450.jpg

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/5246250577.html

they only want $300 for this one which is a steal

like she said scrap off the tin shed rv and add a full metal box and do whatever you want
 
Is it an old FMC? I am assuming it is a Pusher. The 440 leads me to believe it is an FMC. I was thinking RTS bus until you said 440.

Jim Bounds shortened a 23' GMC motorhome to 21, if I recall. Was called the Bobtail coach.

www.gmccoop.com
 
Scrap metal is down to $30 a ton.Hardly worth the effort to drag it to the scrapyard!
 
dang 30 bucks a ton, what area are you in. here it's 130 bucks a ton. which is still way down. a few years back it was 300/ton. highdesertranger
 
You don't reveal your skill set or tools at your disposal to tackle a project like this. A picture of the RV would help.

Your question "is it as simple as?" makes me think you might want to pass on this one.

I am beginning to thing you are correct. I worked as a commercial transport refrigeration mechanic for 30 years During that time also worked on the shipping containers themselves. I have TIG, MIG and Stick welders, and have worked with wood and fiberglass, (lived on a boats for 25+ years).

After crawling under it, It looks like where the frame would cut easily, makes it hard to redo the interior, and vice versa. I don't think I will ever full time as I have hobbies that I enjoy that require lots of tools. so Maybe a month or two at a time might be the max. I modified my pickup into a flat bed, so maybe making a camper for it should be a first project.
 

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yeah the price I gave was for number 1 and I am on the west coast about 30 miles from the ports of Long Beach/San Pedro/Wilmington. the place I go to shreds it drives it to the port were it gets loaded on a bulk ship that goes straight to Asia. the further you are from the west coast the lower your price. highdesertranger
 

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