Rusty transmission cooler line

[SternWake]

I had not, thanks,

Wish they provided the tube diameter and threaded end dimensions. I have a A-500 4 speed overdrive transmission. not sure the A904 or a 727 lines are a simple bolt up.

They only list parts for a D250 or a W250, not a B250.

DiD the original steel lines thread into radiator itself? Mine now have a length of flex hose bridging steel lines to radiiator barbs.

 

[Gary68]

i couldnt find lines for b series,with so many made they should be out there,did find fitting for a500 at a few sites

i would stop by a trans shop and see what they say or if they can order a set from their supplier or how much to make you a pair

i have done brake lines and such but whatever my propane line is made of took my little hand flare to the bent handle limit to get i hope enough flare to seal

 

[SternWake]

It Appears the A-500 is an A-904 with an overdrive unit tacked on the end.

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/torqueflite.html

Perhaps there are several models for the D or W series truck would work:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-ttc7801/applications/make/dodge/engine-size/5-2l-318



I've no issues cutting and bending up one of Napa's 11$ brake lines to reach front of engine, and using flex tubing to radiator. Would save about 30$ compared to buying something prefab'd for a similar engine transmission combo, which might require bending anyway, and perhaps cutting too. Am leaning towards the Napa solution. plus, I can ride my skateboard there if I have to.



Thanks for the input.

 

[SternWake]

While I thought I had previously  plumbed my Aux cooler before radiator cooler, I assumed incorrectly the direction of flow.  When I saw what I thought was the return line, went to the front port on Tx, I decided to open my Magnefine filter.  The Exterior of the media pleats were cleaner than the interior.

The internet later confirmed that the rear port is the return port.  Gee, I  guess I should have checked that 7 or 8 years ago when I added the Magnefine filter.

http://www.txchange.com/cooler.htm



So I had the Magnefine inline  filter on backwards, and my Aux Tx cooler was plumbed after the radiator cooler.

My pan was pretty clean, not much ferrous sludge on magnets.  I added two neodyium magnets to pan last pan drop in addition to the donut magnet. The donut magnet had very little ferrous sludge on it.  The Magnefine filters have a bypass if th eelement gets clogged. Good thing mine did not get clogged as it would not work plumbed backwards.

I made new steel lines out of the Napa 5/16 brake line.  While I took all stress off the lines, and cleaned the mating areas very well with PB blaster, there was no getting the old lines off without destroying them.

There is a brass adapter screwed into the transmission, and this came out when unscrewing the flared fitting from it.  I did try and hold the brass insert and turn the compression nut, but there was no way to achieve enough torque, so out came the brass plug too.  And I had to put this in a vice and use a  5/8 flare wrench and a lot of muscle to separate them. no way could I have achieved that amount of torque laying on my back under the vehcle a the angles I was allowed.

Having to cut the lines to get them off, made making new lines harder as the template was destroyed, but the napa lines bend pretty easily, and my main concern was that they did not hit the kick down rod or the shifter linkage.  Also I made the lines differently, with the return line going to passenger side where I mounted my derale external filter mount.

So now my plumbing goes to radiator first, then Aux cooler and then to my Aux filter.  I am using a Fram Ultra XG16.  DO not confuse the Fram Ultra with the orange can of death fram (tough gard) that the internet has made into a pariah. The Ultra is a very good filter, especially for 9$.  I could use a larger filter like the XG 8A size, which I use on my engine.

The Tx pan got a new filter and gasket as well.

I put the Aux cooler in between the radiator and the fan, instead out in front, simply as it was more convenient to do so. There is still over 4 inches of clearance before fan blades. 
I realize it would likely cool better out in front, rather than behind radiator, but I will likely have to collect some data, and if I can't keep it 180F or lower on the return line, I will add a pusher fan in front of the radiator where I have the Aux cooler attached.  

Am doing a coolant exchange too, then valve cover gaskets, then  all new ignition components.  The ignition components  could likely go a lot longer, but Oh well.  I got a smog test coming up soon, and will be racking up some mileage the week after next.

I could not get the plugs out of the block, and still have ~1.5 gallons of old coolant in there.  not happy about that but will try again tomorrow as I have not refilled system yet.  I did swap out my lazy slow to open Motorad 195 T stat for a new old stock made in USA, 195f Stant superstat.  Cant go to a 185F with fuel injection.  Did that once, Lost nearly 2 MPG highway.

 

[TMG51]

ok if you able to over cool your tranny because of to cold an ambient temp,  then it's going to have the same effect on your radiator,  your engine is never going to get to operating temp.  in this scenario you need a cold weather front.  a cold weather front is basically a wind guard over your grill to block air flow over the radiator.   but in these situations the ambient temp is below 0f.  that's a high latitude winter discussion.  it doesn't apply here.  highdesertranger

Us Vermonters just cut a piece of cardboard and slip it in front of the radiator during the winter, for this reason. Some people will do that so their cab air and defrost heat up faster.

 

[SternWake]

While there has to be an Ideal temperature and thus viscosity for ATF for minimal wear, what we really know is that temps over 175F are detrimental to the fluid.  

Will  the effect of an Aux cooler before or after the raditar cooler affect Ideal viscosity, or the rate at which that is achieved? Well no data, no conclusions. Not from me.  Not with ATF

Either way, my Aux cooler was unwittingly plumbed after the radiator cooler, Now it is again, but intentionally this time.

Here are some pics.

The Donut magnet is, AFAIK, OEM.  The other rectangular magents are Neodyium I added during last pan drop many years ago.  The one darker circle at bottom right of Pic below  is where the aftermarket drain plug bung  is welded to pan exterior.

The drain plug is pretty key to not making a mess when droppnig the pan. it also makes refreshing the fluid as easy as possible, though only 4 to perhaps 5 of the 12 total quarts will drain out overnight, the rest remaining in torque converter and cooler lines and other internals.   I drained 5.5 quarts replaced with 6 because of the extra filter capacity.

When the Tx was still low on fluid, and I was idling to check level, finding it low and adding more, some ugly sounds emanated from trasmission after adding more when pump was cavitating. Kind of freaked me out. but apparently is normal.


This pic shows the brass insert that is screwed into transmission, and the flare nut and double flared 5/16 line is threaded onto this.  I used a wire brush and many Q tips saturated in PB blaster to reveal this:

 

The steel flare nut and steel line were effectively fused together. I urge anyone thinking that the brass plug can easily stay in place  held with a dedicated wrench, while unthreading only the steel flare nut, to rethink that likelyhood.  While this steel line looks horribly rusty in the photo above, it did not look that bad to the naked eye. There was no unthreading this without bending the steel line well beyond reusability.  Above, is the return port on back of transmission. The pressure/output port is closer to engine.  on the a727 and a904 and their overdrive counterparts the A500 and A518. 

I suspect the engine rebuilders, back  in 2004,  broke theTx  cooler lines and pulled one or more of these cooler lines from a salvage yard, as one was way more rusted than the other


Some might point out that the red flex hose I used, is multipurpose hose, and not dedicated ATF cooler hose.  To you observant sticklers, Well, I used the same hose 7 to 10 years ago when I last played with the lines and it was not close to failing.
 I had some new old stock unused  red multipurpose hose leftover from way back when, and I used it again, but I would recommend others employ actual ATF cooler hose,  as it is more flexible, by far, and the OD is less for the same ID.