riggyk said:
Ok so here's the status:
1) I started grinding this thing down as I had like an hour and a half before sunset and I went for it full steam, and I have to say: props to steamjam because I bought the cheapo grinder and wheel and it worked great.
- **See pictures but my questions are:
Optimistic Paranoid: Can I still clean this mid-grind or should I wait until I'm done? Or should I just say screw it at this point? (Would still like to! haha)
- I could EASILY see grinding this thing down to bare metal as A) it wasn't that difficult making progess and B) It almost as if I have to spot test every little piece of old paint to see what lies underneath briefly as there ARE some small areas where the paint seems ok but a good majority, once you penetrate the paint, has rust underneath on the metal itself. - So can I just grind this whole thing? Or a good portion of it?
- If so, HOW THE HECK can I get into the recessed grooves without nitpicking up and down an inch in the groove the entire length of the van? - To clarify, if you look at the pictures the cleaned metal actually looks like the recessed portion (optical illusion) but it's really the groove that is convex/sticking up, so it was super easy to just hit the grinder on this smooth/long/easy. - In between each convex bump as a concave area and I can't hit the lengthwise, and I'm curious if there's a tactic here to get this? Or is it just annoying and requires the nitpicky motion an inch at a time?
- If I do grind the majority of this down, should I still hit it with some kind of degreaser or vinegar rinse? The grinder got it pretty damn clean so hard to say...
Lastly, I've also attached a picture of the largest hole scenario in the cargo bed..... let me know what ya'll think about patching that thing...
You guys are great, and thanks for all the help. Truly grateful for these kinds of collectices.
Man that hole is nothing compared to what I had to deal with in my Dodge. To repair a hole like that, first grind off as much of the rust as you can around it. You may end up making the hole bigger as some weak steel falls off, but no worries. Mix up the vinegar/water solution and pour into a spray bottle, spray it on and let sit for 1/2 hour. Then using red scotch-bright, or wire brush, carefully go at it (trying not to cut yourself, wear gloves..) Then you have a choice:
I would weld in new steel, but if you don't have a welder, (I bought a mig welder from Harbor Freight for $99. Its not that great of a welder, but it's always worked when in a pinch.) then go get some fiberglass with epoxy and fill it in.
To get the seams, first use anything sharp (I use an old screwdriver) and scrape the seams as best you can, then spray liberally with vinegar solution, wait a half hour, and use a wirebrush.
If your trying to restore the van, then yes, I would remove every inch of the original paint thats on the floor. If not then there is no need to do that. If you suspect a rust bubble, the easiest way to test it is to pick it with an old ice pick, or other sharp tool. if the bubble pops, more rust repair. You always want to find those rust bubbles and repair them.
To get to the rest of the floor, (Judging from the pics) I would just use a wirebrush, or wire wheel thats on a hand drill, and scrub the recessed areas (ridges?) of the floor to remove any loose paint, or flaky rust. Then just dump a bunch of the vinegar solution all over the floor, wait, scrub, rinse off, wipe it down with some denatured alcohol, then paint over. Done.
I personally like the chassis saver. You can get a gallon of it for the same price as a quart of por-15. If parts of the factory seam sealer is no good, chip away at it, then use construction glue. GREAT STUFF. I've sealed entire car floors, trunks, and quarters with it. Its never let me down.
