renogy panel mounting

[05kas05]

i picked up a renogy panel and z brackets for my van my question is do you see a problem with drilling two holes in the ends of the frame to mount my panels instead of using the factory drilled holes on the side. i already have a roof rack mounted on my van and was going to mount the panel to it using the brackets on each end versus the side.

 

[Scott_1776]

Those wafers in your panel do not like to flexed, so becaeful. And it will void any warranty they might have for sure.

 

[akrvbob]

No structural harm will be done, I've done it numerous times. But, it will void the warranty on the frame, but it shouldn't affect the warranty on the power production. Double-check that with Renology to be sure.
Bob

 

[05kas05]

thanks guys i went ahead and mounted them i figured it would void the warranty but it is a chance i will take since i already have the rack from hauling my bikes i switched to a hitch mounted rack so this was ideal for my panels to get mounted to. anyway its all installed and up and running and i should add there is very little flex mounted this way so it should be fine. now to go install the fridge. thanks again it is appreciated

 

[05kas05]

one quick question on sizing for the fuses for the wires coming from the panels to the charge controller
according to renogy fuse size is figured by this formula
(# of panels in parallel)x panel isc x 1.2

so i have 2 panels and the chart says
short-circuit current (isc) is 5.75amps
so using this formula i get 13.8
so i should use one 15 amp fuse in my power wire coming from my panels to the charge controller.

so this should do what i need correct
http://www.amazon.com/-line-Holder-...id=1418622655&sr=8-2&keywords=15+amp+mc4+fuse

also the fuse from the charge controller to the battery should be the same rating right?

 

[TucsonAZ]

You don't need a "fuse" between the panels and the CC, I used breakers but only as a means to disconnect the power, they aren't really needed for anything other than a disconnect unless you were dealing with a grid tie system on a house in which case the fire department wants them so they are needed to meet code but again, only as a disconnect.

I also don't have one between my CC and my batteries, again, it isn't really needed. You would want one between your inverter and batteries though and between any dc loads and your battery bank.

You can check out marine breakers, many people use those on the cheap and they act as both a disconnect and a breaker.

As a side note, I completely avoided screws, I didn't want to deal with anything working loose, I opted for rivets and I'm happy I did as I felt far safer with them.

 

[05kas05]

thank you everyone for the info. i think i will go ahead and put the fuses/breakers in those lines just to be safe they may not be needed but it will make me sleep better at night haha !! thanks again.

 

[TucsonAZ]

thank you everyone for the info. i think i will go ahead and put the fuses/breakers in those lines just to be safe they may not be needed but it will make me sleep better at night haha !! thanks again.

Sounds good, just remember, a fuse is there only to protect the wiring, I'm not sure in this situation what you're protecting the wiring from but if it'll help you sleep go for it. I would however urge you to use a breaker instead of a fuse as that way you'll at least have the switch there to turn off and service the system which is the entire reason for putting anything there. Remember, you always want to disconnect the panels from the CC before the battery hence people adding a breaker/switch to the input side.

 

[MikeRuth]

If you do...
Use a good quality Fuse or Breaker so as not to cause a resistance point.

 

[TucsonAZ]

QYI 15a DC breakers is what I went with in a din rail breaker box (on the left in the picture), I would suggest the same for you. And I really would read up on it and avoid using repurposed automotive stuff for a solar install.

 

[05kas05]

i have read up on it and everything i have read that came with the kit i bought and other kits i have seen people install in vans all use a fuse which is why i was asking about the mc4 style fuse i originally linked too. i did not relize it was rebranded automotive stuff since i have never seen an mc4 style fuse holder like that used in a vehicle not to mention it is sold by a company that sells solar products.guess i was wrong and will look into it further, thanks... i guess?

 

[Seraphim]

Renogy recommended ANL fuses, which is what I ended up using.

Someone commented fuses are designed to protect the wiring. I'm far from an expert, but I'm of the opinion, from reading, that fuses are spec'd according to the device being protected. That's how Renogy spec'd the fuses for me. It doesn't matter what amperage the wire is rated for - though is should be more than it will ever need - the fuse is chosen for the lower amperage of the panel's. Or between the CC and the battery, the lower amperage of the CC.

 

[TucsonAZ]

You are all more than welcome to set your solar up any way you choose, you can toss a fusable link in there, an automotive fuse, a light bulb or a breaker and it doesn't matter on my end, they will all function. I'm simply telling you why it's there and you can make any choice you want from there. With solar, many things will "work", you could avoid having a CC and hire somebody to stand there flipping a switch on the wire between the panels and the battery if you wanted and it would "work". We're only talking about how well.

Just because something says it on the internet doesn't means it's the best way of doing something. I see people all the time chassis grounding their solar on the mobil installs then not fusing the ground side but insisting they fuse the positive side, whatever.

Also, forgive me for not having much faith in Chinese directions or instructions which for me only end up making sense after I've gotten something working without understand what the hell they're trying to tell me to do.

 

[05kas05]

hey man I'm not arguing or trying to debate with you or anyone for that matter, I'm trying to learn to do this the right way that is all . i value what you have to say so please don't think otherwise maybe my post came across a different way than intended and if so i apologize. as far as what i have read on the net or in the Chinese manual yes your right I'm confused as he-- thats why I'm here asking because i don't know and i need answers so please don't get upset your info is not falling on deaf ears i may question it but like i said its just because i have already heard twenty answers to one question and as you said just because you read/heard it on the net does not mean its the best way. but i need to figure out what to weed out and what to listen to. hope you understand and thanks again for the info it is appreciated.

 

[TucsonAZ]

Oh man, you didn't offend me at all, question everything! It's confusing as all hell to get a straight idea of what to do. It comes down to a huge balancing act between cost, value, efficiency, quality, and time. So, don't skimp on your wiring, I also wouldn't skimp on a charge controller, if you can get something better than the one Renogy sends, even if you went with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B11SSVA/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AU5MW0P13QZ5V

I would go that route. The panels, a watt is a watt, I'm sure some are better but it would be the first area I would opt for the lowest cost option.

Fuses aren't going to hurt you to have unless they're sized in a way that they restrict the system, I'm just saying that you need to remember why they're there, to protect the wiring. I would also but sure to use something that allows you to shut off the PVs from the charge controller if you need to do so for any reason.

Read a lot, ask a lot and use common sense, there's A LOT of bad info out there for sure!

 

[MikeRuth]

You can read the manual on that here,
http://www.steca.com/module/datadat...hbC9TdGVjYV9Tb2xhcml4TVBQVF9NYW51YWxfRU4ucGRm

Pretty good for the price.

 

[BigT]

Mind if I bump this thread with a quick, related question?  

I'm running a 190 Watt Grape panel through about 8' of 10 Gauge MC4 wire to a Morningstar 15 Amp MPPT controller.  From there I'll be using another 12' of the same 10 Gauge MC4 to a 12 Volt Northstar Group 24 AGM battery that I replaced my under-hood OEM battery with.  
(The AGM/24 is not a remote, completely separate "house-battery", but will be getting charged by the alternator along with the panel).  

I know some of you say I don't need to run a fuse, but if I were do so, what Amp would you recommend?  
Do breakers come with an Amp rating as well (I have zero experience with breakers), and if so, do I use the same Amperage as the recommended fuse?

Thanks!

 

[blars]

Yes, use the same amp breaker as you would fuse. You need a DC rated breaker, not one sold for house use.