Removing escape hatch-need to cover hole.

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I had to replace the plexi on a number of tanning machines.  Every piece had to be cut down.  Scoring and snaping is not always the best solition.  I got so I could do it with a table saw, low speed skill saw, and jig saw.  Something that is small a multi tool would work best. 

ALWAYS use packing tape on both sides to protect the integrity of the plexi and to keep from scratching it with chosen tool.  Mark the drill spots and always use a sharp bit on a low speed.  Do not put a lot of pressure on the drill.  Try to give at least 1/2 inch of space before the edge. 

Use 3/4 or 1 inch wood to attatch to.  A 2x4 is heavier than you want to use. 

Like SW suggested, pan head SS screws
 
wasn't your escape hatch kinda a sky light. I mean they are not clear but they allow light to pass through. I have seen clear escape hatches or boat hatches. highdesertranger
 
I had discovered that the "escape hatch" could just be pushed up for ventilation(I thought it was a one use thing). Of course this was after removing many screws, a few bolts, and all the caulking in the interior. Knowing what I know now, it would of be nice if someone had suggested just resealing it...

But, now that its out, the plexiglass will be neat! Gotta wait for my payday, we usually get by during the month on her weekly alimony money, but he has started to play games with it so that's always nice.
 
Cry said:
I had discovered that the "escape hatch" could just be pushed up for ventilation(I thought it was a one use thing). Of course this was after removing many screws, a few bolts, and all the caulking in the interior. Knowing what I know now, it would of be nice if someone had suggested just resealing it...

But, now that its out, the plexiglass will be neat! Gotta wait for my payday, we usually get by during the month on her weekly alimony money, but he has started to play games with it so that's always nice.

Look at post #5.  Stearnwake made that suggestion.  If you clean things up, and use fresh screws it can be put back for about $10.
 
My escape hatch has instructions on opening and closing the vent.  :angel:

I have thought about installing a fan in its place so I'm following your progress.
 

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if you want a fan why not just put one on the escape hatch? I really don't see any advantages with removing the escape hatch. after all it's an escape hatch and was put there for a reason. highdesertranger
 
GotSmart said:
Look at post #5.  Stearnwake made that suggestion.  If you clean things up, and use fresh screws it can be put back for about $10.

[Humor detector needs recalibration]

Pretty sure C'nB said it that way intentionally. :D
 
Spot on TMG51, I think a few people suggested just sealing it. My sense of humor pretty much flops all the time. I think im hilarious, no one else does though...lol. As to putting it back together, I broke up the plastic sidewall on top of the roof pretty good. It was adhered with something strong on the plastic was quite brittle.
 
highdesertranger said:
if you want a fan why not just put one on the escape hatch?  I really don't see any advantages with removing the escape hatch.  after all it's an escape hatch and was put there for a reason.  highdesertranger

If this is directed to me, it is because I've heard great things about the Fantastic Fan. They do make escapehatches with fans but i dont know anything about the power consumption or quality of those fans.

I haven't decided either way but did notice just opening the vent made a tremendous difference in how stuffy the van felt this weekend.
 
@TooManyDogs,if it not leaking, just add the FF in the escape hatch part. What does just the hatch measure? If they are the same size, I still have the hatch and you could have it to "try" cutting it up and adding fan. That way if it didn't go as planned, you still have you're original hatch. PM me if that sounds like a plan,sometimes I lose posts that I should return too. I included pic of mine, the outside measures 24" x24", just a few centimeters over 24".

IMG_20170213_181556407.jpg

I'll hold onto it for a few days. PM me if ya want to try it. Its free, but shipping might be a problem for me until the beginning of next month. But if you want it, I'll get it to you.
 

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It likely will, just do not drill too close to the edge, nor use the screws to squeeze out whatever sealant is used underneath. Acrylic cracks all too easily in my opinion.
 
With this size, there will be 3" overlap on 2 sides and 6" overlap on the other two sides. With the advice you offered earlier on the scuffing and 5200 adhesive, but not quite the thickness you advised, I am hoping it will work. Otherwise, I will spend the extra money to do it as "right" as I can.
 
.03 of an inch should not make much overall difference
 
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