Refrigerated Trucks?

[BradKW]

One of the common results in my searches are refrigerated "Thermo King" box trucks, a fair number being prior Crispy Cream trucks. One thing I like about them is they usually have rear barn doors. There's a few unknowns that I wonder about:

1) Obviously they are insulated, but is this a good thing? Anyone know what's hidden behind the panels and ceiling?

2) I'll attach a pic below, but the interiors are very "tight" and smooth...wondering if this will present issues trying to find suitable points of attachment? Wondering if I'd end up stripping the interior face off anyway...anyone know what it is or how attached?

3) What is the ThermoKing unit, just a big AC that is powered by (I assume) the alternator? Might it be something I'd want to keep as an AC for when I'm on shore power? Think it could be set to run off a generator?

4) I can't see any reason that a pass-thru to cab door couldn't be cut in to this...?

5) how much of a premium might I be paying for insulation and ThermoKing unit? Truck's listed at $16.2, milage unknown....

http://www.miamitruckcenter.net/2012_Chevrolet_Express Cutaway_Hialeah_FL_259786641.veh

 

[LeeRevell]

One word.......    "ventilation".   

Looks workable.  Plenty attachment points - those metal strips.  Attach lengths of 1"X4" wood to them full length/width, then attach your inner paneling to them.  Nice open smooth space to work with.
No idea about that AC.  Probably a power hog.

 

[highdesertranger]

holy cow, Death Valley in July. highdesertranger

 

[Spirituallifetime]

This one is powered off the alternator. Most of the box trucks that have refrigeration will run off the alternator. The walls have about 2" of insulation and covered with a thin material of some kind, nothing can be attached to it, the e tracks on the walls are the only points that anything can be attached. The floor on refrigerated trucks is made of aluminum and is insulated I believe and some have drain holes in 2 or 4 corners.

 

[LoupGarou]

Second word..... "Vehicle insurance".

You wouldn't think insurance would be a big issue but before you purchase any vehicle that is considered commercial or fills some sort of specific task like being a shuttle bus, a school bus or ambulance, run the VIN across your insurance company. You may or may not be able get any. If you can, your off and running on a build you can call your own that's unique.

 

[Konaexpress]

Wow! You would be cool as a cucumber in that thing.

John

 

[Wanderer]

Gas milage must suck....

 

[highdesertranger]

um all the ones I worked on ran off the AC compressor not the alternator, unless you are talking about the fans. highdesertranger

 

[masterplumber]

um all the ones I worked on ran off the AC compressor not the alternator,  unless you are talking about the fans.  highdesertranger

Yeah, I was wondering how that would work, unless it had it's own compressor run of an electric motor. I think the give away would be that there are probably a couple hoses/pipes running from the engine compartment to the unit.

 

[masterplumber]

Went back and looked at the middle picture - definitely hoses running up to the unit. It either has a second compressor added to the engine, or a dual zone system like in some of the 15 passenger vans.

 

[VJG1977]

Another pictures shows that it is a Thermo King V-200 Refrigeration System  
"The V-200 vehicle powered units deliver day-in and day-out cooling performance for small van or compartmental applications. The V-200 uses an engine-mounted compressor (TK-13)."

 

[johnny b]

The 'E-Tracks' are attached to the wall studs....check where the screws are, measure between and that should give you the stud locations and spacing. A stud finder may be able to give you the 'edges' of the studs (might be tough if the walls are aluminum sheet). Then you can remove the E-track and mount your stuff to the studs.

 

[cognitive dissonance]

Brad -

There will at least be a stud at each external seam.  (Where there are rivets, there's a stud!) Typically, the stud will be "hat track" channel.

The insulation material is almost certainly closed cell polyurethane spray foam, which was originally developed for reefer boxes like the ones you're looking at.  The aged R-value per inch is 6, so a 2" wall will be R12.  2" of closed cell spray foam is a complete vapor barrier (eliminates interior condensation by moving dew point outside the vehicle) and also a complete air barrier. 

The roof insulation may be even thicker.  In the two reefer box roofs I cut holes in, it was 4". (Both were semi trailers, FWIW.) If the floor is insulated as well, that's a better overall insulation package than most brand new homes. 

With a white exterior, summer comfort will be astounding.

Also, closed cell spray foam adds a lot of structural strength.  There will be no sheet metal resonance when driving, which is an annoying characteristic of most box vans.  On top of that, it's a pretty good low frequency sound dampener, so road noise will be minimized.  The walls are strong enough that you can just cut holes for windows without worrying about adding framing. 

Personally, I'd dump the Thermo King A/C unit (sell it to help fund the conersion!) and replace it with a small energy star rated room air conditioner.  You can easily run one with a 1000 watt generator, or even (briefly!) with solar and a modest AC inverter. Either beats running a V-8 engine whenever you want to cool your abode. 

If the box is aluminum (and it looks like it is) then it will be a sturdy, lightweight, rustproof and extremely well insulated starting point for a conversion.  Can't do any better than that.

Best of luck...

cd

 

[camadeva]

Yeah, fo sho. The amount of work you would be saving yourself having all the insulation and walls up already is, just, incredible. Install vents, windows, smaller AC, whatever. If you can afford a rig like that and the insulation is all that it's cracked up to be then, that's it. Skip right to the fun stuff