Rear Brake Issue & my repair

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eDJ_

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Wayne National Forest, Ohio
Just to pass this along.  In February I had to drive my Van down to Paducah, KY.  While on the way I lost a left rear brake and fluid was pouring out of the drum.  My Van is a 90 High Top E 350.  I had replaced the Master Cylinder months ago in the fall of the year.  Now this ! 

So this is the temp fix I used.

I was able to break the bake line going from the axle housing to the left rear wheel.  Then I stopped by a hardware store where they had nails loose in bins.  I found a nail that fit the flared end of the brake line and purchased a few and then inserted the nail into the line.  Then reconnected the line to the union where the main line fed the left and right rear wheel lines.  This effectively plugged the line to the leaking wheel cylinder.

Then I was able to find a guy who was willing to help me bleed the brakes.  I did that by loosening the brake line where it joined the union.  After several bleeding's all of the air was evacuated and I had solid brakes again. (although on only three wheels now)   But, it was enough to get home with attention to reasonable driving and braking.  I had a pair of vice grip pliers that were most useful for this.

On returning home I found NAPA had the kits to rebuild the wheel cylinders for only a few dollars.   All of the other large chain auto parts stores only stocked complete wheel cylinders for much more $$$. 

One issue I had when I got home was being able to get the nail back out of the brake line.  Duh ! 

So I went to a wrecking yard and found a Van of my vintage and removed that brake line (which is factory pre formed in some compound bends)  and paid $2 bucks for it.  (as I removed it myself)  

The Van ran fine but used some oil.  I think I'm going to have to replace the Valve Cover Gaskets when the weather warms up.  Seems that I got better gas mileage at 65 mph than I did at lower speeds.  Still when on the 70 mph KY parkways a lot of people don't appreciate the plight of a High Top.  (if you've ever thought of owning one)  =)
 
The oil usage might be worn piston rings and/or cylinder bores. How many miles on that engine?
 
About 78K actual now.  The van didn't get much use by the original owner before he closed the business that he used it for.  I've had it since 98 when I purchased it and it had around 52K on it then. 

I can smell the oil on the engine when I stop.  I've checked the compression on it in the past and it is close to specks.  I've only tightened the valve covers once since I've had it.   It runs great and I want to keep it.
 
You should be down here in Texas where the speed limit is 80 and only doing 60 :) My beast is 9 1/2 feet tall. Even the big rigs pass me.

Good thinking on the fix. It was maybe a pain to fully fix it but a lot less than a tow and a wheel cylinder and new brake shoes at a shop.
 
I hope you replaced the fluid soaked shoes as well.
 
I've parked the Van until warmer weather comes around when I'll spend some time on it.  I want to get the mechanical right and spend some time on the interior.   Everything will be right before I head out on an extended trip again.  The benefit of this trip was discovering what needs looking into.  Actually,  not really that much other than  brake repairs and valve cover gaskets.  

But like I said the Van ran fine.  Just a few minor details to attend to.
 
Loved the idea of the nail in the brake line.  I never would have thought of that.  NAPA is always my first choice.
 
For those who can't imagine what I'm talking about, here is a sketch.

Nail_Fix.png


It's a handy little work around to know about,  and as B & C pointed out the cost of a tow and repairs could otherwise be avoided while buying time to find a realistically priced repair facility or to get to a place where you can fix it yourself. 

Was talking to an accountant friend recently and he laughed and suggested those who are full timing consider setting up some kind of small business venture.  Thus fuel and repairs could have a tax advantage for the vehicle owner.
 
Did you cut the nail so it wouldn't do into the brake line far enough to get stuck, or was it just such a tight fit that you couldn't get it out.
Tips like this would make a great thread.
 
The nail I found was narrower than the inside of the brake line.  It was about 2" long but what was important to me was that the head of the nail be close to the diameter of the flare or just slightly less.   As you can see where
the flare would fit into the brake lines connection block there is a bit of a nipple that the flare fit on.   On tightening the Brake Line Nut the head of the nail tends to dish in a bit.  But this is how it seals the Line. 

I replaced the Brake Line because the nail head had embedded rather tight.  I could probably put a torch to it and tapped it some and worked it loose but the Line Nut was chewed up from the vice grip pliers I used to gently
rock it loose.  I would also give "PB Blaster" a shout out in this repair too. 

I just wanted to create the graphic so those who aren't so mechanically experienced could see and understand it.  Who knows who they may mention this tip to when they find someone broken down on the side of the road.
A "nickle nail" and a dollar bottle or two of brake fluid (from Dollar Tree Stores) may save hundreds of tow and repair bills.  (for less than $10 bucks I can get the wheel cylinder repair kits, $25 new brake shoes,  and the rest is
using my tools and labor to fix the problem......and in my case a couple of bucks for a sort piece of preformed brake line from a wrecking yard) 

Wheel cylinder kit:  (less than $5 bucks each, new wheel cylinder $19 each not made in USA)

J113933


If you don't have a cylinder hone and electric drill to break the glaze on the cylinder you can use sand paper such as 320 grit wrapped around your finger.   The big things are the tools to jack up the axle, remove the wheel, and brake tools to actually dismantle the brake shoes  and reinstall them. 

Full brake tool kit for disk and drum brakes: (not too expensive)

typeImage-0-20160330102603.jpg
 
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