Pull out for fridge

[LookinUp]

I want to build a permanent,simple four legged table over my Dometic fridge.  For easy fridge access I'd like to have a pull/slid out shelf for the fridge to sit on. Has anyone built something similar? I see pre-built stuff online, but they are pricey, hoping someone else has been there and done that.  Thanks!

 

[highdesertranger]

how heavy is your refer? you can build your own using ball bearing drawer slides. but when you start getting up into the ones that can handle heavier loads they get pricey too. highdesertranger

 

[ViaVacavi]

If it's light enough and you have a smooth floor (like laminate), you could probably get away with covering the bottom of the fridge with felt or something similar to allow it to glide easily.

Another option to expensive heavy duty drawer slides would to build some sort of sled for it to sit on with skateboard wheels or something similar underneath.

 

[poprouge]

what about those furniture slider discs?  I use them all the time so I can move super heavy furniture, might that work and be a super cheap solution?  Anyone try it?

https://amzn.com/B001WAK5VQ

 

[ccbreder]

I used drawer slides. Heavy duty 20 some inches, less than $30 set. Built a platform with 5/4 pine and peg board. Custom made a set of hold downs for the fridge. I used peg board for the bottom to help with air circulation.

 

[LookinUp]

Great ideas all! Thanks so much! I love simple, I may start with the furniture slides and see if I need to do more.

 

[Almost There]

I built a 'tray' that my Whynter sits on. It rolls out from underneath the kitchen counter for access.

All it took was a piece of 1/2" plywood slightly larger than the Whynter, two lengths of 1/2" square doweling for on the open edges and 4 castors.

I'm looking to replace the casters with something that doesn't leave black marks on my laminate floor but am now having trouble finding something that will take the weight and at the same time not be so high as to make the whole thing not fit the opening. But since you're not finished building yet, you can use a better castor than I did.

I did have to add a stop system to it so that the whole tray/fridge wouldn't roll out of it's storage place and come up to meet me while driving....

 

[TrainChaser]

That sounds like a good idea.

I saw something like what you need many years ago -- like half a century..... I don't even remember what the 'thing' on it was, but it was something like AlmostThere described: just a piece of sturdy wood with wheels. But the wheels were the kind that didn't turn, just forward and back. The plank had a handle cut into the wood -- it looked like a large cutting board on wheels. Kind of like this: http://chicagotribune.chictrib.netd...e5fb8d27136e95/e/v/everyday_cutting_board.jpg

Then he had a door in front of it, but that would be too awkward for you. Some kind of bar or 'seatbelt'?

AlmostThere: See if you can find some white nylon wheels or castors?

 

[SternWake]

Under my bed platform i have storage boxes that come within a few mm of platform. The bottoms of these boxes have felt strips and slide easily on my laminate floor. I use an oak wedge between them to lock them in place. The wedge pushes them tightly to the wheel house boxes that form the bed structure.

I was not aware of chest style fridges back in 07. Bought a front loader instead. Extra insulation and a well ventilated condenser make it extra efficient. More so than my friends ARB chest style fridge when run side by side. Certainly more convenient.

His also has insulative cover.

Make sure that cooling unit vents are not obstructed when slid out or recessed. Any efficiency gained by chest style vs front loader, if any, is negated when condenser is bathed in hot air it itself has heated.

A well ventilated condenser and cooling unit makes a huge difference in performance and battery consumption. This is often ignored. The heat removed from box has to go somewhere. Make sure it can be removed easily.