Promaster City Conversion (picture heavy)

[geokite]

Camper conversion of Ram Promaster City (picture heavy)

End result with comments from myself at  
 
I bought this vehicle new with the intention to convert it for camper use.  This van was chosen over a couple others (Ford Transit Connect, Nissian NV2000) because it had the best millage.  I regularly get 30 mpg with no box on top, 28-29 with a box on top.  This van is not lived in, it is just for trips.
 
Tools at hand that made this project doable/easier: cheap router and table from Harbor Freight, drill press, table saw.
 
First step was to run the wiring through all the walls, and connect the solar panel on top.  Most wires are encased in split wire loom to protect them from abrasions.  Wires were chosen for temperature resistance (don’t remember the spec).  The vehicle had a GPS antenna at the back part of the roof above the rear doors; this was removed and the pre-existing hole was used to route the solar cables in (with a rubber grommet of course).  I made my own gange out of marine plastic from a local plastic supply, affixed to the car with 3M VHB 5952 tape, sealed with Dicor non-leveling sealant.  

 

 
The 100 watt flexible solar panel is affixed using magnets; like these https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RX033CS-S&cat=173 The counter sunk side is down against the roof, and flathead bolt comes up through the solar panel gromet, then a fender washer and nylock nut holds the solar panel to the magnet.  An additional grommet was added to the front edge of the solar panel.  A light coating of spray plasti-dip was applied to the magnet to 1) minimize them sliding on the roof and 2) to protect the roof paint a bit.  Because the roof metal is so thin, another magnet was placed on the underside of the roof, like these https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DX03 These also had a thin coat of plasti-dip sprayed on them.

 

 
These counter sunk magnets match the height of the valleys almost perfectly, so the solar panel fits very flush with the roof.  Yes, it does get quite hot in the summer sun without airflow underneath.  But I went with this method because when this solar panel wears out I will not be stuck with any holes that might not match up with the replacement.  And I needed the rack space for bikes, boxes, and paddle boards.
 
A plug for shore power (like when I parked in the garage) was added to the rear bumper cover.  A port like this https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1-12...=1516498340&sr=8-4&keywords=block+heater+cord was used.  To prevent excess flex in the bumper cover when plugging in/out, a block of foam was cut to size and glued to the back.  The exact size to cut the block was tricky; a small piece of solder was curled and taped on the back, the port was inserted then removed, and the depth off the back of the port was measured.

 

 

 
 
The cord runs around the underside and into the vehicle thru a pre-existing hole (just had to remove the plug and add a rubber grommet).  

 
The power goes to a household outlet in the cabinet.

 

[geokite]

Noico sound deading material was added to most surfaces that I could get to (walls, inside the walls, rear doors), but not the floor or roof.  I anticipate the solar panel wearing out and having to be removed, so the roof needed to stay clean (nothing glued to it).  Thinsulate insulation was also stuffed into the walls, back doors, and on the wheel wells.

 

 

 
Influenced by a van build at the promaster forum, I installed L-track to anchor the floor, cabinet, and bed.  And anything else I carry.  I don’t have a source for it, but the L-track I got had no holes drilled.  Exact holes were drilled to match with the pre-existing anchor points in the van, but the front anchor points did not line up with the rear two.  A length of aluminum was fitted to span the front anchor points, then connect to the L-track.  The added height under the L-track matched the floor height.

 
 

 
The floor was insulated with ¼” closed cell foam in the valleys, and another layer of ¼” ccf on top.

 
½” plywood was used on top of the foam, then coin flooring.  The middle piece is only held down by the L-track, while the outside pieces are also screwed into the floor (rivnuts) in three places.  Not shown in the pictures below, but aluminum L stock was used to cover up most of the exposed edges of foam/wood/coin.

 

 

[geokite]

The wall panels were shaped first from poster board, then transferred to cardboard, then transferred to plywood.  The plywood was sealed with Gripper primer, and automotive fabric was glued to it with 3M 90 contact adhesive.  

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thinsulate was glued to the rear window cavities behind the wall panels.  Connections to usb ports in the walls was made.

 

 
The frame of the cabinet was made from mostly 1x2s, attached to the L-track with brackets (connected to L-track studs, like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168K1EC...t=&hvlocphy=9031343&hvtargid=pla-315762508215 The length of the wall was perfect for the placement of a Goal Zero Yeti 400, Snowpeak Baja Burner, and a pair of 2.5gal water bricks.  The width of the cabinet fits a 10” diameter sink.  A Mark 6V hand pump by Whale water systems is the faucet (so easy to pump water)

 

 

[geokite]

 
A sliding tray to hold the Baja Burner was made from aluminum L-stock, and the stove is held down with magnets in each corner. The stove can be removed for cooking outside (legs fold out)

 

 
In an effort to save weight/space, the cabinet fronts were made from ¼” plywood, held onto the frame of the cabinet with magnets like these https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R822CS-N&cat=173 The back of the panels have steel washers counter sunk and glued in place.  The panels just snap off and are placed aside when access is needed.

 
The front of the panels and most of the rest of the cabinet is covered in maps.  A 50/50 mixture of white glue and water was applied to the maps, then the maps to the wood.  Then a couple coats of urethane were applied.  The urethane does seal the maps, but it does darken/yellow whatever is underneath.  I had wanted to do the counter top in maps also, but instead chose some greenish artist paper.  IMO, it darkened too much, looks crappy, and will be replaced (hopefully next summer).

 
The ceiling was the hardest part of the van.  Getting a pattern for the entire ceiling, about 1” lower, was very difficult.  It isn’t perfect, but I saved the pattern if anyone in the San Diego area wants to use it.  I transferred the pattern to corrugated plastic (two pieces glued together as the ceiling is wider than 48 inches in some parts), attached 1” blocks to the plastic with T-nuts and glue, attached headliner fabric, then glued some wood backing for the lights.  After the lights were installed and wired to a plug, thinsulate was fitted around the blocks.  It is all held to the roof with magnets in the blocks.  The placement and polarity of the blocks had to accommodate the other magnets on the ceiling (that hold on the solar panel)

 

 

 
Trial run with the ceiling to make sure it fits before the headliner and lights were installed.  

 
 
Only after the ceiling was fitted (and before headliner material) were the holes for the fans cut.  Due to height, I needed to go with the Ventline 6” fan.  Not my first choice for many reasons most of you are aware of, but a pair of them works well so far.  They are wired so one can blow in, the other out, and with a speed control.  They fit perfectly between a roof ‘hill’ and the rubber ‘gutter’ on the side, and don’t interfere with anything I put on the rack.  They let in a bit of light (translucent cover) which I really like.  After the holes for the fans were cut, the hole was transferred to the corrugated plastic ceiling.  So in theory the ceiling matches the roof.  Ha!  
 
Final images of the ceiling can be seen in the youtube video, and partly in the first picture of this post.

 

[geokite]

The bed is a very standard slated slideout for two people.  To keep access to the passenger side sliding door, the final foot of the bed flips up with screw in legs.  Then the extension part flips over, also with screw in legs.  It works.  I’m not thrilled about it, but it works.  Easiest to set up standing outside the van, but if it was raining it can still be done from inside.  The slates are from a bed support from Ikea; great quality plywood, just the right width, low cost, and curved to boot.  

 

 

 
I purchased the cheapest foam bed from Ikea and cut it to size.  Found some excellent instructions for making cushion covers on youtube ( ) and used the excess fabric to make some ‘pillows’ that hold sleeping bags and clothes.

 
The top of the right wheel well interfered with the main cushion.  Cutting the foam to go around it was tricky, and doing the upholstery around this cut was harder.

 
The rear door ‘windows’ (where they would be) got covered with ¼” plywood and the blue automotive fabric, held on by magnets like these https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RX033CS-S&cat=173.  A parallel sided magazine holder is attached to hold map books, and bike water bottle holders to hold drinks.  The weight of the maps caused the panel to come off when the door was closed, so one aluminum bracket was fashioned to hold it on.

 
The switch panel is explained well in the youtube video, but it gives me access to control the lights, fans, usb ports, and a current meter.  The entire switch panel can be removed from the back and worked on (or replaced).  
 
So far the van has done well.  My wife and I did the eclipse trip with it this past summer, and it did well in Zion when it got down to 19 outside (30 inside).  A Little buddy heater, a 1gal propane tank, and a small fan (to circulate the warm air) heat the van in the winter months.  The stove can run off the same propane tank with an adaptor by G-works.  
This van could not have been done without the countless contributions from people on forums like this; it is much appreciated everyone!  Post below if you have any questions about choices and methods I made.

 

[geokite]

In one of your pictures is your rooftop solar panel with a carrier rack directly over the panel & casting a shodow.  Partially shading even a fraction of a single cell will severly limit overall energy harvest.

Thank you future_vandweller, yes, I was aware of that when I installed it.  Keep in mind that the battery gets charged from running the car.  The car has a 12V port on the left side that the Yeti 400 plugs into.  No need to run a heavy gauge line from the engine block area, though the firewall, and back to the battery.

 

[CityMiniVan]

Nice build and you certainly mastered a stealth van that provides a safe sleeping environment. I also decided on the city for the great fuel economy and the ability to fit in my garage. However I had to provide sleeping for two and have access to the bathroom in the middle of the night for both of our senior bladders. When I travel solo I can stay almost as stealth as your conversion.

 

[VanTalk00]

 
A sliding tray to hold the Baja Burner was made from aluminum L-stock, and the stove is held down with magnets in each corner. The stove can be removed for cooking outside (legs fold out)

 

 
In an effort to save weight/space, the cabinet fronts were made from ¼” plywood, held onto the frame of the cabinet with magnets like these https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R822CS-N&cat=173 The back of the panels have steel washers counter sunk and glued in place.  The panels just snap off and are placed aside when access is needed.

 
The front of the panels and most of the rest of the cabinet is covered in maps.  A 50/50 mixture of white glue and water was applied to the maps, then the maps to the wood.  Then a couple coats of urethane were applied.  The urethane does seal the maps, but it does darken/yellow whatever is underneath.  I had wanted to do the counter top in maps also, but instead chose some greenish artist paper.  IMO, it darkened too much, looks crappy, and will be replaced (hopefully next summer).

 
The ceiling was the hardest part of the van.  Getting a pattern for the entire ceiling, about 1” lower, was very difficult.  It isn’t perfect, but I saved the pattern if anyone in the San Diego area wants to use it.  I transferred the pattern to corrugated plastic (two pieces glued together as the ceiling is wider than 48 inches in some parts), attached 1” blocks to the plastic with T-nuts and glue, attached headliner fabric, then glued some wood backing for the lights.  After the lights were installed and wired to a plug, thinsulate was fitted around the blocks.  It is all held to the roof with magnets in the blocks.  The placement and polarity of the blocks had to accommodate the other magnets on the ceiling (that hold on the solar panel)

 

 

 
Trial run with the ceiling to make sure it fits before the headliner and lights were installed.  

 
 
Only after the ceiling was fitted (and before headliner material) were the holes for the fans cut.  Due to height, I needed to go with the Ventline 6” fan.  Not my first choice for many reasons most of you are aware of, but a pair of them works well so far.  They are wired so one can blow in, the other out, and with a speed control.  They fit perfectly between a roof ‘hill’ and the rubber ‘gutter’ on the side, and don’t interfere with anything I put on the rack.  They let in a bit of light (translucent cover) which I really like.  After the holes for the fans were cut, the hole was transferred to the corrugated plastic ceiling.  So in theory the ceiling matches the roof.  Ha!  
 
Final images of the ceiling can be seen in the youtube video, and partly in the first picture of this post.

Hi geokite,

I really admire your build and would like to connect with you.  I have actually tried emailing you based on your Youtube channel email address, but I couldn't connect. I referenced you in one of my Youtube videos.  Anyway, I'm planning on building a Promaster City and would like to talk to you.  

Let me know,

Thanks,

Jim